Victor Glemaud RTW Spring 2023

After showing the last two seasons at the freshly opened Moynihan Train Hall, Glemaud this time showed his work at an even more iconic location: Flipper’s Roller Boogie Palace at Rockefeller Center. Outside, on a perfect sunny day, with everyday New Yorkers and tourists looking on, the party began as a mix of roller skaters took to the runway. “I just like being outside,” Glemaud said backstage of the location. “Really, though, clothing exists in the real world. I like interacting with people, and so should the collection.”

Glemaud is a designer who is keen on the history of American sportswear, citing “Mr. [Geoffrey] Beene, Donna [Karan], Bill Blass, Giorgio di Sant’Angelo and Stephen Burrows” in his work, paying reverence to them by researching them at the Museum at FIT (MFIT) archive.

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Evolving from his fall collection, spring began with his take on sheer black silk crochet tunics, coming in a variety of lengths, some with swim options. He moved on to bubblegum pink with a strapless tube dress with sheer panel, or a jumpsuit with open V on the bust with a flowing cape. They showed the power of his knits, coming alive on a mix of body types. There were takes on a modern bombshell, too, with several scuba leopard looks, one with a corset with boning. Body-con, skin, cutouts, color, one-shouldered details — all the Glemaund hallmarks were there.

Glemaud’s world was fuller, collaborating with his friend milliner Gigi Burris on chic raffia bucket hats, Vereda’s Evan O’Hara on elegant silver alligator market totes, and capped off with his sunglass collaboration with Tura.

Updating your home? He is working with interiors company Schumacher, too.

Launch Gallery: Victor Glemaud RTW Spring 2023

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