The VERANDA Non-Guide to Paris
There is such a thing as the art of doing nothing—and it is both elegant and enlightening. Such was the ruling sentiment of the 10 designers, shop owners, and bona fide bons vivants we asked to show us the best of Paris today. Almost all endorsed Parisians’ mastery of just being: losing yourself in literature, conversation, architecture, even a game of pétanque in front of a park bench. It’s a spirit as essential to the city as the Seine. Here, how to embrace the riches of Paris, joyfully
Where to Discover Plein Air Paris (Psst. It’s the best one.)
Spend an Hour
"...strolling the quays and crossing the Pont des Arts. Now that the city has cleared the padlocks that covered the bridge, there is no better place to take in the beauty of Paris.” —Jamie Creel
"…sitting on a bench in the garden of Palais Royal. It’s like a secret in the center of everything: the Louvre, the Place Vendôme, the opera...” —Stéphane Olivier
"….walking the elevated viaduct at Coulée Verte, which is the old Vincennes railway line. Peer between buildings, and enjoy the open sections’ expansive views.” —Louis Albert de Broglie
Take the Afternoon
“... and explore the glorious Jardin du Luxembourg. I always loved taking my kids to see the guignols [puppet shows] and stopping for a crêpe at the adorable lunch kiosk in the center.” — Penny Drue Baird
“... to visit Parc Monceau, built by a cousin of Louis XVI and surrounded by late 19th-century mansions—pure belle epoque Paris.” —Frank de Biasi Lisa Fine
“…and ramble aimlessly in the Jardin des Plantes, founded as a retreat for botanical studies 400 years ago. It has this Old World feeling in the middle of the city. My favorite section is the allée of the Cedar of Lebanon.” —Lisa Fine
Miss Your Reservation
“No Michelin star restaurant can beat a picnic by the Seine. Head to the Épicerie at Le Bon Marché and pick up an array of cheeses, baguettes, olives, and a bottle of wine, then find a spot on the banks of the river—the ultimate Parisian dinner.” —Kathryn Ivey
How to Navigate the Hour of L'Apéro...Like a Pro
“It’s the best hour of the day, no?” asks Stéphane Olivier of France’s l’apéro, that sacred interlude before meals marked by slow-sipping aperitifs and dulcet discourses. “It is a way to end the working moment and reach friends or clients in a more social atmosphere.” Purists remind that it’s a communal affair, low-alcohol sips like Lillet Blanc or Dolin vermouth are standard, and, as Olivier suggests, extending it well into the night is always on the table.
A Leisurely Guide to Shopping the Paris Flea
Marché aux Puces is still the best spot for scoring anything from Bauhaus chairs to English porcelain. But it’s an even better place to chill out.
It’s been more than a century since the Paris Flea Market began to take shape in Saint-Ouen, on the northern outskirts of the city. And though it’s the largest in the world, the true treasures lie in the sensory experience of its mellow microculture, says Paris-based designer Kathryn Ivey. “My favorite sight is during lunch hour when the sellers pull small card tables together and share lunch spreads of meats, cheeses, breads, and goblets of wine. I love that their meal rhythms don’t change even if it pulls them away from a sale.” Read on for Ivey’s insight into getting the most out of Saint-Ouen—with zero hustle.
It's not the internet. "When I go without an objective, I find exactly what I've been looking for for ages. Let the market unfold before you."
The French are storytellers.“Curiosity is a qualifier for sellers. You are more likely to go home with something for a good price if the vendors feel like you’re taking the story with it too.”
Must love dog. “There’s a collegial spirit among the vendors and always small dogs lounging in the sun by their owners’ feet. It’s a great way to strike up a conversation.”
Three More Leisurely Treasure Hunts
Drouot • “It’s like France’s attic. One of the oldest auction houses in the world, the best place to source anything from the contemporary to the prehistoric, and a great way to pass the day.” —Jamie Creel
Decour Décoration • “An appointment-only shop reputed to have the best upholstery in the world—to see the workshop is a true revelation.” —Lisa Fine
Artcurial • “This auction house and shop is in a beautiful building and great for exploring exhibitions of upcoming sales, from art and furniture to vintage Hermès handbags.” —Thomas Pheasant
Where (and Why) to Live Like a Local
Scrap the hotel, says Frank de Biasi, and rent a chic apartment. “You’re not going to have a dinner party in a hotel, after all. A rental in an area that’s close to open-air markets is a much better way to immerse yourself in the city. Plus, meeting people in the building makes for lively conversation and feels less transient, more personal. The 1st and 2nd arrondissements near rue Montorgueil have markets open daily—a great foodie neighborhood. Opt for a low floor to get classic soaring ceilings or a high floor for beautiful Parisian light.”
When You Do Book a Room….
“Hôtel Relais Christine has been recently renovated, and it’s like a little jewel box.” —Kathryn Ivey
The "I Don't Do Breakfast" Guide to Eggs and Coffee
Such are the words of Dorothée Meilichzon*, echoing the sentiment of so many Parisians for whom heavy breakfasts are not in their cultural repertoire. And yet, "eggs and coffee" are part of their epicurean DNA—before noon or not. These are the petit dejeuner haunts our insiders swear by.
Café Antonia • "Best eggs Benedict and coffe in Paris." —Frank de Biasi
Café de Flore • "A second home for me—best oeuf à la coqie and café crème in the city." —Jamie Creel
Carette • "I love the varieties of scrambled eggs and the little paté feuilletée served alongside them" —Penny Drue Baird
Claus Paris • "Be sure to get the clafoutis with ham and goat cheese." —Kathryn Ivey
Fragments • "Amazing oat milk cappuccino!" —Ariane Dalle
Hotel Montalembert • "It reminds me of my grandmother's house, where the chef could make about 365 egg dishes!" —Louis Albert de Broglie
*PS: You can find Meilichzon stocking up on salmon, cheeses, and patisserie at Taka & Vermo for lunch at home with friends.
Make Time for a Modernist Moment
"Walk rue Mallet-Stevens to get lost in its namesake architect's work. All five mansions have cubists volumes of varied proportions and are finished in white plaster, graced with large windows, surmounted by rooftop terraces." —Ariane Dalle
Where to Linger Over a Table...All Afternoon or Well Into the Evening
For Eiffel Gazing: The terrace at Girafe. —Frank de Biasi
For Your Grandmother's: L'ami Jean. —Lisa Fine
For Jazz Sundays: Bar Josephine. —Kathryn Ivey
For Watching the Chefs: Semilla. —Louis Albert de Broglie
For Committing to a Soufflé: Le Récamier. —Penny Drue Baird
For Left Bank Shopping Breaks: Sense Eat. —Thomas Pheasant
Where to Taste Fine de Huîtres
"Paris does oysters like no other," says Penny Drue Baird. "Because they come from just a few hours away in Brittany, it feels as if they're arriving from around the corner. They're all over—even in the Marché aux Puces—just in from the coast, making the rounds on beds of seaweed in straw baskets. It's impossible not to get hooked." Here are three more of her favorite places to enjoy them.
Huîtrerie Régis • "A few tiny tables, and they serve almost nothing but oysters and shrimp."
Istr • "A boisterous oyster bar in the dark 3rd arrondissement."
Le Mary Celeste • "Jostle for a spot at the curved counter for a glass of wine and oysters in the Marais. It's fresh and fun, especially en route to dinner."
Where to Chase Midnight
Our insiders’ favorite after-dark places in the City of Lights, from historic hideaways and epic experiences to buzzy new hot spots
Dine
Old Classic: "Located in the Jardin du Palais Royal, Le Grand Véfour is a grand, historic restaurant frequented by Napoleon, Jean Cocteau, and Julia Child." —Kathryn Ivey
New Classic: "Designed by Jacques Garcia, La Réserve, located in the 8th arrondissement, is absolutely beautiful." —Dorothée Meilichzon
Drink
Old Classic: Renamed in 1994 for its famous patron, Bar Hemingway is a cozy oasis in a sea of great cafés and restaurants." —Jamie Creel
New Classic: Bar Le Dokhan's is called a Champagne bar, but it is like stepping onto a movie set. Don't miss the elevator made from a Louis Vuitton trunk. I must admit I've copied it!" —Penny Drue Baird
Dazzle
Old Classic: "I like the contrast between the old architecture and the very modern selection of choreographers the Ballet at the Opéra National de Paris highlights during the year. It's always a show." —Stéphane Olivier
New Classic: "Privatize an antique bateaux mouches. I find even many Parisians haven't been on one." —Jamie Creel
Cabaret
Old Classic: Moulin Rouge. —Stéphane Olivier
Cult Classic: Cabaret Michou. —Dorothée Meilichzon
Where to Find Off-the-Beaten Path Exhibits
No slight to landmarks like the Louvre, but one could spend a month just wandering the quieter, boutique(ish) museums of Paris. Here's a look at some of the outstanding exhibitions worthy of slow walks through the past. (You have until the end of February to get to the da Vinci exhibit at the Louvre.)
For the Monet Habitué: Musée Marmottan Monet, with more than 300 Impressionist and Post-Impressionist works by the French master. —Louis Albert de Broglie
For the City Historian: Musée Carnavalet, a tribute to the history of Paris housed in neighboring Renaissance-era mansions. "The ballroom done by Jose Maria Sert is a must-see." —Jamie Creel
For the Grand Tour Scholar: Jacquemart-André Museum, "a private house museum from 1876 with an amazing collection of Italian art, and the decor is pure over-the-top Napoleon III." —Frank de Biasi
For the Interiors Obsessed: Musée Nissim de Camondo, "a small museum set up as the family lived, with one of best French decorative arts collections. It's a fascinating but tragic story, a must-see." —Lisa Fine
For the Crafts Purists: Musée Bourdelle "seems like nothing has moved in sculptor Antoine Bourdelle's home since 1949—marble, stone, plaster, and bronze models are all beautifully arranged." —Ariane Dalle
For the Artsy Opportunist: Hôtel de Ville. "Discover free exhibitions not often found by travelers. I just caught 'Champs d'Amours.' Beautiful!" —Thomas Pheasant
Where to Get Lost in the Stacks
This early 19th-century bookshop in the 1st arrondissement earns a spot among the classics.
“Galignani is the oldest English- language bookshop on the European continent and serves as an unofficial embassy for the English-speaking expat community,” says Jamie Creel of the librairie opened in 1801 by an Italian publishing family. “I spend hours here, browsing for hard-to-find, out- of-print titles.” Lisa Fine agrees: “I particularly like the selection of travel books and memoirs, along with those on decorative arts and design.”
Other top stops for tomes on decorative and fine arts:
OFR. Bookshop • “It reminds me of book-shopping Brooklyn’s Williamsburg in the late 1990s. It’s casual, they have cool events, and it’s located in a charming part of the Marais.” —Ariane Dalle
7L • “Created by Karl Lagerfield, the shop’s selection of books on decorative arts, designers, and architecture is perfect for me. We share the same tastes.” —Stéphane Olivier
La Hune • “After a fire a few years ago, the landmark 1940s shop moved to the corner of rue Bonaparte and has an exceptional collection of photographs, if not the same array of books as before.” —Penny Drue Baird
What's New + Now
The exhibits, eateries, and atelier openings on our insiders’ radars.
L’Atelier des Lumières, a digital art center in a former smelting plant; February 2020.
"The 2020 program features artists of the Mediterranean like Monet, Renior, and Chagall, along with Yves Klein, focusing on his iconic blues." —Kathryn Ivey
Palais Galliera, partnering with Chanel for a permanent exhibition gallery; 2020.
"The reopening in 2020 will come with a new exhibition space in the vaulted basement that will double the size of this fashion museum. Highly anticipated!" —Thomas Pheasant
Bourse de Commerce-Pinault Collection, a new contemporary art museum and landmark restoration; June 2020.
"Private museums of a large magnitude are very recent in France...It's extremely interesting for our country." —Louis Albert de Broglie
"I'm a big fan of the Punta della Dogana in Venice, so having one in my own town will be amazing." —Dorothée Meilichzon
La Fab, couturier Agnes b.'s new permanent gallery; December 2019.
"The new gallery will include more than 5,000 works and highlight social and solidarity issues, which brings so much humanity to this crazy fashion world." —Ariane Dalle
Centre Commercial, an edited and ethical concept shop; 0pen now.
"Think the former Colette, with men's and women's fashions, along with music and art exhibitions, all stylishly displayed and very relaxed." —Frank de Biasi
Matisse, Centre Pompidou's tribute to the artist's 150th birthday; May-August 2020.
"I have always been inspired by Matisse's use of color and pattern, as well as his fascination with the exotic." —Lisa Fine
Fleur de Pavé, the 2nd arrondissement eatery by Michelin chef Sylvain Sendra; open now.
"A great discovery—very simple but delicate cuisine, with the freshest vegetables and select meats." —Stéphane Olivier
J.K. Place, the buzzy new hotel coming to Saint-Germain-des-Prés; December 2019.
"Based on the other J.K.s around Europe, it's sure to be a design triumph as well as a hot spot for drinks and dinner." —Penny Drue Baird
The return of Lapérouse, the iconic eatery; open now.
"After extensive restoration, it reopened this summer. The mirrors are still marked by lovers checking to see if diamonds given as cadeaux were real or fake." —Jamie Creel
This article was written and produced by Ellen McGauley, as seen in the January/February 2020 issue of VERANDA.
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