Vera Wang RTW Spring 2018
Inside Vera Wang beats the heart of the proverbial different drummer. While numerous designers are seeking to offer happy collections to a sad world, upbeat just isn’t Wang’s thing, sartorially speaking. She’s more intrigued by the dystopian world view of “The Handmaid’s Tale.” She binged on the series over the summer. Once again eschewing the runway, she thus commissioned a video, “The Congregation,” by director Bon Duke.
The eerie beauty of the work, filmed at GBX Terminal in Red Hook, Brooklyn, depicts a dark world in which women rely on each other for support and comfort. In truth, that’s not far off from Wang’s overall fashion vision, not the subjugation of women part, but the idea of dressing in a deliberately sober way. Besides, who doesn’t love a good bonnet?
For Wang, the headgear proved more than storytelling flourish; it “enabled me to envision the clothes in a different proportion and context,” she said. Inherent in Wang’s work is a powerful glamour sprung from the interplay of feminine and masculine. Here, she melded corsets to hyper-sculptural jackets over floor-length skirts. Most often, these came in austere suitings; a gentler version reinterpreted a mannish check as a silk print.
Throughout, Wang layered in delicate lingerie pieces, some done up with lavish lace and beading. One all-black look, a racy slip over a shirt buttoned all the way up and pants so long the model could step on their hems, projected a twisted sensuality. She also incorporated metal mesh — and a rare display of skin — in a tank dress layered over sports bra and skirt.
It was all quite beautiful and specific. Wang will talk openly about the challenges of doing business today and then deliver a collection message such as this, that resolutely resists commercial compromise. A fashion handmaid’s tale — a gutsy one.
Launch Gallery: Vera Wang RTW Spring 2018
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