Vaquera RTW Spring 2023
New York designers Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee returned to Paris to deconstruct the American dream with their latest collection. The quick and confrontational models stomped down the runway at what has become Vaquera’s signature speed — a frenetic pace designed by the duo to capture the attention of the audience. One can feel their tightly wound, almost angry energy, even if you can’t fully process the looks until after they’ve whizzed by. That’s the pace of how we live now.
If a shredded American-flag gown wasn’t enough to enlighten one on their state of mind, they spelled it out in show notes. “Stressed and confused to be an American,” and the duo played with classic tropes.
More from WWD
“Everyone’s confused and no one is content,” Taubensee said of the state of the States right now, which they channeled in the collection. Voluminous sailor dresses had a sense of dreamy innocence, juxtaposed with skin-tight body stockings and exposed backsides, also exposing a chasm between the two ideals. They’ve worked with the flag idea before, and this season it showed a sense of maturity in more intricate construction.
Cone bras with low-slung satin skirts, cropped moto jackets with a touch of cowboy fringe and satin bombers stood out among the discord. In the end they are items that appeal to the consumer — after all, it’s still capitalism.
“We don’t see it as a political thing, we’re just commenting on the bizarre confusion and bizarre state of America right now,” DiCaprio said of fashion. “We’re not offering a solution.”
Launch Gallery: Vaquera RTW Spring 2023
