Valette Studio Men’s Spring 2024

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Accentuated by slicked-back hairstyles and diamanté accessories, Pierre-François Valette’s “The Great Gatsby”-inspired collection offered a contemporary spin on androgynous dressing.

Nodding to the designs of Paul Poiret, Valette plied his tailoring expertise into a more relaxed wardrobe in patchworks of cotton and poplin. “It looks simpler, but it was actually much more complicated to do,” said the designer, who wants to cultivate “proximity fashion” — read elevated designs that younger generations can relate to — backstage before his jam-packed presentation at the Palais de Tokyo.

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His final two looks, respectively in black and off-white, offered a slick yet quirky alternative for evening, their satin collars and sashes offset to create a slouchy silhouette accentuating the waist.

Elsewhere, boiler suits were patched together with up to 45 different panels of fabric, the legs of pants buttoned on at the knee, giving them the look of usurped spats. Shirt sleeves were given the same treatment, while boxy suit jackets were cropped and deprived of their sleeves as if morphing into boleros.

Chunky hand-knit cardigans in vivid hues roughed up the silhouette a little, while touches of camp included giant floral embellishments and silk scarves wound around the neck.

Launch Gallery: Valette Studio RTW Spring 2024

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