Valentino Haute Couture Makes a Quiet Statement for Spring 2024
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Pierpaolo Piccioli didn't hold back when it came to the high wattage of his front row, but the designer's Spring 2024 Haute Couture collection for Valentino was quieter in its proposition.
The collection is titled "Le Salon." In that spirit, models walked through a series of rooms lined with a single row of seats, like the salon runways of yore. (The livestream would also cut to a birds-eye view of the "backstage" area — the stairwell where the models waited before stepping out, where the team gave the final nod before each one began the walk.)
It opens with a white feathered tunic top over magenta trousers, topped with a purple-ish brown jacket; followed by a drapey burgundy dress worn over dusty pink pants. The colors feel a little less saturated than what we expect from Piccioli. (Even a pair of wide-leg orange trousers skews darker and deeper, not as punchy as a tangerine.) The first big pop comes in the form of a red tinsel cape over dusty pink overalls and a sheer pussybow blouse.
Piccioli is known to play with shapes, but it usually manifests in volume. In this collection, there's a more traditional exploration of silhouette — for instance, the first proper dress is a strapless magenta ballgown, with a full structured skirt cut to right over the ankles, only offering a peek at the shoes underneath. There's a lot of restraint: Volume is used sparingly, most lines drawn clean and close to the body. The styling is similarly balanced and considered, with every more eye-grabbing piece (be it because of the silhouette, embellishment, texture or color) anchored by something more foundational and understated (like a yellow mermaid skirt popping against a grey turtleneck and oversized blazer, a sculptural orange bandeau top paired with a grey pencil skirt or a silver tinsel jacket with blue high-waisted trousers). As for the season's palette, PP Pink and Valentino Red take backseats to aqua, arctic blue, pale gray, pastel green and eggplant.
By focusing on a single element in each look, be it through juxtaposition to create contrast or as an all-over statement, Valentino maximizes its impact. It guides the audience more decidedly, telling us where to look and what to pay attention to. Haute couture isn't quiet about its luxury, but there's an attempt at really stripping it back to its purest form: the art of making absolutely remarkable clothes.
See every single look from Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024 below.
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2024. Photo: Launchmetrics Spotlight
