Valentino, Haider Ackermann for Gaultier Among Haute Couture Highlights
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PARIS — ’Tis the season to be glamorous as the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode on Monday published its provisional couture calendar.
There will be 30 houses showcasing their collections between Jan. 23 and 26, with 29 runway shows and Iris Van Herpen choosing a presentation format.
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As is now tradition, Schiaparelli will kick off the four-day couture season at 10 a.m. on Jan. 23. Back after showing at home in Rome last July, Valentino will be in Paris for the spring collections, closing the third day of couture with a 9:30 p.m. show on Jan. 25.
One highlight will be the Jan. 25 reveal of Haider Ackermann’s one-off collection for Jean Paul Gaultier. In a recent exclusive interview, the Belgian designer told WWD he planned to explore the iconic designer’s quieter side.
Ackermann will be the fourth designer to interpret Gaultier’s oeuvre, revealing that he’d found “that we both talk about different cultures; we both talk about masculine and feminine; we both have an admiration for tailoring. I think we are both in love with women. So I think all those subjects that he and I share are things that I’m going to try to put out there and show what we have in common.”
Ackermann, whose last runway show for his signature ready-to-wear collection was for fall 2020, has been largely flying under the radar, making a big splash here and there by dressing the likes of Tilda Swinton and Timothée Chalamet for key red-carpet appearances.
Sitting out this season are Maison Margiela, which will have shown its menswear line on Jan. 22, and veteran couturier Adeline André.
Three new guest members will close the season on Jan. 26, as they join fellow guests Aelis, Christophe Josse, Georges Hobeika, Imane Ayissi, Julie de Libran, Juana Martin, Rahul Mishra, RVDK Ronald van der Kemp, Yuima Nakazato and Zuhair Murad on the couture schedule.
First up at 4 p.m. will be Gaurav Gupta, a New Delhi-based couturier whose sculptural designs have been sported by the likes of Aishwarya Rai Bachchan, Priyanka Chopra Jonas and rapper Saweetie. In addition to couture, his brand offers men’s designs, ready-to-wear and now fine jewelry.
At 5 p.m., it will be the turn of Maison Sara Chraibi, the brand established in 2019 by the Morocco-based designer, who studied architecture, philosophy and architectural theory before starting to sketch her first designs which are rooted in her homeland’s traditions and crafts.
There also will be Robert Wun. After winning the ANDAM Special Prize, the Hong Kong-born, London-based womenswear designer said he hoped it would help him manifest a Parisian debut. Wish granted — he will show at 6 p.m. on Jan. 26.
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