The unspoken Glyndebourne dress code and how to get it right
Glyndebourne, one of the world’s most celebrated opera festivals, kicks off on Thursday and runs until August 25. In its 90th year, sales have already been record-breaking with performances including The Merry Widow, which is being staged here for the very first time, alongside Carmen and The Magic Flute.
For anyone who has ever held a ticket, there’s something spectacularly magical about this country house opera – from its idyllic South Downs setting, where thistled hills and lavender-scented gardens surround a rambling 16th-century manor house, to the formal dress code, which is still de rigueur despite no longer being enforced. Coming here feels like the ultimate social cachet.
For all its lifelong older members who raise an eyebrow at radical productions and slipping dress standards (you’ll spot a handful catching a snooze after a few too many flutes in the sunshine) there’s been an influx of a younger fans, thanks in part to new under 30s and 40s memberships offering priority booking and discounted tickets.
Audiences don’t just come for the music but for the whole experience – the thrill of getting dressed up and assembling the fanciest picnic of their entire life; silver, crystal, candlesticks, everything goes, devoured to the soundtrack of birdsong and grazing sheep. This is a place where high standards prevail and first timers will likely be pondering what on earth to wear, because while the official website states there are “no rules”, if you roll up in denim, flip-flops or shorts, be prepared to find yourself under scorn.
Think evening cocktail rather than hunt ball, more formal than a wedding guest because you don’t have to worry about overshadowing a bride. This is the place to do lady-of-the-manor-dressy but not OTT razzle-dazzle sequins. It’s a balancing act – you need to also nail down being appropriately dressed for the outdoors and prepared for all manners of English weather.
“I try to always wear British designers if I can, it just seems fitting,” says seasoned Glyndebourner Annika Purdey of James Purdey & Sons who annually opts for designers including Alexander McQueen, Burberry, Victoria Beckham and Beulah London.
Her top tip? Don’t wear anything too tight. “You’ll be sitting most of the day and want to be comfortable.”
Chic updos or soft waves look nice, alongside a bold lip or eye. For those coming on the train, you must decide whether to arrive in full dress (there’s a coach from the train station to the grounds) or nip into one of the changing rooms on-site.
“I attended for the first time last year with a friend and her family who go every year and dress quite formally,” says Eshita Kabra, the founder of rental site By Rotation. “The girls were in gowns, and the men were in black tie so I opted to wear a Jacquemus lemon sorbet dress which has a semi-formal appeal.’
My own first trip to Glyndebourne was with my now-husband’s family in 2012. Fresh out of university, I knew little about opera but threw myself into the preparation – the excitement of heading to Bicester Village to snap up a designer gown, with a Kate Middleton-style blow-dry to boot, ready to watch the drama unfold.
It was my first proper introduction to a black-tie event and proved to be a world-class act of people-watching – from those who’d come clutching no more than a picnic blanket and M&S sandwich in slightly too casual attire, to the ballgown-wearing ladies and their strapping scrubbed-up husbands, and the corporate-box guests who turned heads with their (tut-tut) open shirts.
It was spellbinding – except I made the major faux pas of wearing stilettos. I didn’t anticipate the sheer amount of walking I’d be doing, from the car park to lugging the picnic kit – tables, chairs, the lot – to a serene spot under a willow tree by the lake. Don’t make the same mistake, especially if you want to breeze around the pretty gardens for photos. Those in the know opt for a block or wedge heel so there’s no chance of sinking into the grass or, better still, a slightly shorter hem so a pretty flat peeks out beneath.
Kabra too recommends taking a change of shoes. “I had my Loewe basket bag for my flat shoes – for the train travel and grass walking – I’d highly recommend bringing a larger bag and comfortable heels.”
If dresses aren’t your thing, sharp tailoring is a chic alternative and statement blazers, tapered trousers and standout suits from designers such as The Deck, the first all-female tailor on Savile Row, and Me+Em would work brilliantly.
“For Glyndebourne I like a romantic look which goes with the bucolic setting,” says London-based designer Anna Mason whose elegant, feminine pieces regularly adorn clients for the festival. “A long dress, so you can wear tights to keep out the chill, and you’ll need a layer – an evening jacket or a wrap because you’ll want to look summery but not freeze when the temperature drops as it gets dark.”
For those who’d rather not buy something new, rental platforms such as By Rotation and Hurr have entire sections dedicated to black tie. “I’d rent midi to long contemporary dresses from brands such as Reformation, The Vampire’s Wife and Zimmermann,” suggests Kabra. If you’re thinking about headwear, stick to a fedora or something wide-brimmed to keep the sun at bay but take it off during the performance – no one wants their view partially blocked. Bows and headbands add a playful touch and don’t forget some costume jewellery too; sparkles always go down well.
For men, most enjoy slipping into traditional black or white tie (watch out for grass stains); after all, as my husband attests, there aren’t many occasions left that fully embrace formal dress.
“It’s always a joy to see so many making the effort to dress up for the opera, it shows respect to the artists and tradition of the events,” says regular attendee William Emmett, owner of vintage boutique Emmett & White, located in Alfriston near Glyndebourne. “I like to be traditional and wear an evening suit but usually add colour with a bright bow tie, brooch on my lapel and velvet slippers, which are easy to slip on and off when sitting on the ground.”
Three chic outfits to wear to Glyndebourne
Outfit one
Cotton dress, £995, Anna Mason London; Raffia bag, £195, Sezane; Crystal drop earrings, £14, Accessorize; Metallic leather heels, £135, Boden
Outfit two
Rotate Birger Christensen recycled-cloqué dress, £300, Net-a-Porter; Velvet hairband, £385, Jess Collett; Beaded bag, £350, Shrimps; Sparkle mules, £35, M&S
Outfit three
Silk coat, £765, Wiggy Kit; Tweed trousers, £299, Sandro; Lace & silk top, £65, COS; Leather sandals, £95, & Other Stories
