I Unplugged in the Catskills and Lived Out My Own Version of Taylor Swift's 'Folklore'

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It didn't hit me until my first evening at Eastwind-Oliviera Valley in the Catskills that I had, somehow, walked into a scene straight out of a snow globe. While I sat with other journalists in the hotel's lounge, a couple canoodled by a roaring fire, hot toddies in hand. We looked out floor-to-ceiling windows onto a lighted walkway that curled toward cabins basked in moonlight, and the chefs who made our dinner (now off work) sat at the bar sipping drinks and mapping out the logistics of tomorrow's fly fishing trip. It was peaceful. It was restorative. It was maybe even something Taylor Swift would write about, her lyrics twining together personal reflection with nostalgia for a place you haven't actually been yourself...yet.

As Cosmopolitan's news and pop culture director, I spend most days firmly glued to my screens, so when I Love New York offered up a rare golden opportunity to flee to the Catskills (sans laptop), I took it. Even without electronics front and center, the Catskills in New York packs a lot into escapism. Consider it an opportunity to indulge your outdoorsy and cozy sides in one swoop.

If you are planning a trip of your own to the Catskills, allow me to get you started with some recommendations.

PS: The writer received free stay, meals, and activities while researching this trip in order to write this story.

Where to Stay

• Eastwind: Oliverea Valley: The aforementioned Eastwind is a stunning mountain-side property bursting at the seems with character. Stay in a cabin, soak in the outdoor pool, slip into the infrared sauna, or slide into a hammock to read that novel you've been putting off. With a fire pit for s 'mores, rooms integrated firmly in the beautiful hillside, a delish restaurant called Dandelion, and charming vintage decor, it's basically an anti-chain hotel. There's simply nothing like it.

• Hotel Kinsley: This imaginative Kingston hotel is split between four buildings and features curated local art throughout its hallways. If you book a stay, ask for a room with a deep tub, which feels intentionally crafted with post-outdoors soaks in mind.

• Hotel Lilien: The vibes of this hotel are, as lovingly described by a trip-mate, "like Knives Out, without all the murder." This boutique property dates back to the 1890s and has since been restored, redesigned, and reopened in 2022. It's right by Hunter Mountain and features a library room and an enormous lounge full of Victorian antiques. The only thing better than the ambiance? The cocktails—don't skip drinks!

• Wildflower Farms: Auberge: As its name indicates, this hotel sits on a farm that grows peppers, potatoes, and herbs among other seasonal goodies—all of which are used in the property's restaurant, Clay. Peak season is June through August, but it's a delight even in the colder months, when the fire pit is crackling, the hot tubs are bubbling, and the floors are heated.

What to Do

• Hike with Catskill Outfitters: Want to hike like a pro? Hire a guide! The licensed professionals at Catskill Outfitters can weave you through mountain sights and secret swimming holes alike, whether or not you have experience as a mountaineer. (And they also offer fly fishing!)

• Emerson Resort & Spa's Kaleidoscope: I consider this a Catskills one-stop shop. It's a property built on an 1800s dairy farm that has: (1) a lodge *and* an inn to stay in, (2) a full spa featuring massages, manis, and chakra renewal, (3) a shopping center with local goodies, (4) on-site restaurants, and (5) a 64-foot high, functional kaleidoscope that plays four different shows to visitors. Truly what more could you ask for?

• Windham Mountain skiing: There are few better ways to experience the Catskills mountains than by skiing them. Windham Mountain can satiate an appetite for adventure with 54 trails, 285 skiable acres, and a tubing park if skiing and snowboarding isn't your thing. Pro-tip: Skip the on-site restaurant in favor of nearby local offerings or the property's Umbrella Bar for a quick drink.

• Visit Kingston, New York for shopping

  • Kingston Consignments: This vintage shop's shelves packed with a cornucopia of rainbow glassware, elegant green chairs, and beaded 1960s cross-body bags, among other treasures. (I left with a tiny jewelry dish featuring "West Germany" stamped on the bottom.) Just don't forget about the second floor, where I 'm convinced the shelves of goodies may just follow the Earth's curve forever.

  • Hamilton & Adams: Once you become an upstate New York super-fan, you'll want gear to reflect it. Hamilton & Adams offers that, plus thick cozy flannels to boot.

Where to Eat

• Sweet Sue's: If loving breakfast is part of your personality at this point, then Sweet Sue's should be on your list. The pancakes are thick, the potatoes well-seasoned, and they smoke their own salmon and brisket. Get there early if your eye is on the lemon ricotta pancakes, because they go quickly!

• Hunter Mountain Brewery: This no-fuss brewery has more than a dozen of its own craft beers on tap, so opt for a flight to experience as much as possible. Note that Hunter Mountain Brewery is closed on Mondays, but you can pick up cans to go until your return, so that's a win.

• Last Chance Antiques & Cheese: Last Chance opened in the '70s as a small cheese shop and has only flourished since, with its second-generation owners gearing up to open a new beer garden later this year. The stop is worth every bit of hype—particularly when it comes to the fondue and the mac and cheese.

• Dandelion at Eastwind: Dwight Schrute might frown upon me for this, but I 'm not a beets fan...unless they come from the chefs at Dandelion. These light beets are next-level, but be sure to sample dishes across the menu, including but not limited to the crunchy focaccia, goat cheese and apples, thai curry soup, and cavatelli pasta. (Bonus: They make it all themselves in-house, so when a 4-year-old guest at a neighboring table wanted something simple, the chefs whipped up a special pasta just for him. The kid ate every bite.)

What to Pack

Tatum Sweater

BANDITS "Good Luck" Bandana

Splendid x Cella Jane Utility Jumpsuit

Calendula Essential Hydrating Cream

Olivia Ponton Pride Denim Highest Waist '90s Boyfriend Short

Upstate & Chill® Max Elation Tee

Women's Nightgown

Sage Penny Loafer

Grace Top

For more information on vacationing in the Catskills, check out I Love New York's site, which is full of additional recommendations, guides, and trip resources.

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