Ungaro RTW Spring 2022

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It’s been quite a journey for the house of Ungaro in recent years as it has cycled through creative directors. Kobi Halperin hopes to steady the brand with a collection that draws on the house’s heritage.

Halperin, who was brought on board mid-pandemic, is frank about his mission. “This house went through so much difficulties during the last decade and I think our approach is very humble. I’m not trying to reinvent fashion, I’m not trying to do something that nobody has seen before. I’m just trying to make beautiful clothes and to make the woman that is wearing them feel amazing about herself.”

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He added inclusive sizing from XXS to XXL, and says sales of his first resort collection, presented in June, have increased to over pre-COVID-19 numbers.

The brand will stage a runway show at the old Pacific Stock Exchange building in downtown Los Angeles Nov. 4.

The look: Halperin drew on the strengths of founder Emanuel Ungaro, who favored bold colors and prints. The house’s signature butterfly abounded here, and he showed a range of fuchsia, tangerine and sunny yellow. There was a focus on flowy dresses and tops with lots of ruffles and ruching. Much of it was made from cotton silk voile to convey an idea of airiness, however, he hid practical details on some pieces: elastic was concealed in pant waists and hidden bodices inside tops for added structure.

Quote of note: “I do believe we have a very clear niche. I think sometimes we need to choose a lane and just stick to it. From a timing point of view, it was the only way for me to see Ungaro happening. That’s what I’m doing and it’s very nonchalant, it’s not stressful, it’s just joy.”

Key pieces: Long dresses with delicate details had a dreamy summer vibe and can go from sandals to stilettos. A sorbet orange halter and a version in the pink and black pattern of a butterfly wing were two standouts.

The takeaway: While the collection is said to be inspired by Paris, it was heavy on bright colors, patterns and ruffles that are better suited to sunnier holiday locales. That said, Halperin knows his clientele and it will do well with the customers in Texas and Florida who flock to his trunk shows.

Launch Gallery: Emanuel Ungaro RTW Spring 2022

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