Undercover Women’s RTW Spring 2023
In spite of the solemn venue — the American Cathedral on Avenue George V — the melancholy soundtrack, and more slashed fabric than in the entire “Pirates of the Caribbean” franchise, Jun Takahashi’s latest collection charmed and delighted.
It was also chockablock with cool and covetable clothes, from witty casualwear — statement T-shirts with the words Love, Dream or Angel surgically slashed — to fluid pantsuits, their multiple wounds ringed with frothy lace and small fabric flowers.
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The slashes — on boxy T-shirts and bib-fronted tuxedo shirts, perfectly paired with loose jeans or black slacks respectively — offered easy entry points to this gothic-leaning brand.
Scatterings of gemstone embroideries elevated chinos; neon colors lit up tailoring.
There were some offbeat constructions wherein fragments of the same garment protruded from the waist or hip — hence an extra set of spaghetti straps on slip dresses, and an extra waistband dangling from the hips of pants — which felt tricky.
The show climaxed with four bulbous minidresses. If you blurred your eyes, you might say they resembled a scarred tomato; a crumple of colored tin foil; a dandelion pappus dyed blue, and a rotting pumpkin. Welcome back to Paris, Jun.
Launch Gallery: Undercover RTW Spring 2023
