Ulla Johnson Spring 2023
Lee Krasner’s color palette, Louise Bourgeois’ textiles and Bryan Lavelle’s wavy line paintings are just a few of the artsy references Ulla Johnson name-checked as inspirations for her latest collection, staged appropriately enough in the Brooklyn Museum’s Beaux Arts Court, which was decked out with beautiful floral installations by Emily Thompson.
Whatever the inspiration, the fact remains: Johnson has cultivated a loyal customer base devoted to her flouncy, tiered ruffle dresses and skirts, crochet and broiderie anglaise pieces, and handcraft details, tweaked just enough each season to keep them coming back for more.
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This collection incorporated several new-to-Ulla techniques, including hand knits made from recycled silk ribbons, Guatemalan handloom stripe and hand-dyed-in-India ikat suiting, made by female-led collectives.
“It’s been a challenge to keep this work alive, especially after we’d had such a hard time accessing it over the past few years,” said Johnson, adding that hand-embroidered denim was made in Los Angeles and hand crochet dresses by master knitters in New York City.
Spring brought other newsy additions, too, including exaggerated volume shirt and pants sets in electric hues, and refined slouchy suiting, with a citrine-colored sleeveless, cinched bubble hem blazer, matching bandeau and high-waisted pleated pants one winning combination. Definitely not for the wallflower.
There seemed to be a few more relaxed fits and elastic waists than in the past, perhaps with more size inclusivity in mind. The designer also upped the ante on eveningwear with a peach double bubble gown, and a green bubble dress with asymmetric knit neckline, that brought back the festive pouf trend that started a couple years ago.
Why stop the party now? “I care very much about bringing joy to the runway, to our woman and to the world,” said Johnson.
Launch Gallery: Ulla Johnson RTW Spring 2023
