The ‘Ugly Shoes’ Trend Explained
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The #uglyshoe hashtag boasts over 173.2 million views on TikTok, speaking to the micro trend’s undeniable popularity. In 2023 alone, top brands like Puma, via their Velophasis shoe, Adidas, with its AdiFom Q model and Nike’s Air Footscape Woven, have come out in order to cater to the trend’s popularity.
Many footwear silhouettes can fall under the category of ugly shoes, a trend that, despite its name, has become associated with some of the most on-trend celebrities and fashion influencers.
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Birthed from a widespread embrace of more comfortable silhouettes over the past few years — particularly during the Covid-19 pandemic, when comfort was the priority — the trend is spoken in the same breath as popular brand names, both high and low-end, including Crocs, Ugg, Balenciaga, Birkenstock, Maison Margiela, Subu, Lusso Cloud, Clarks, Dr. Martens and Adidas, just to name a few.
Sandals, slides, chunky sneakers, flats, bowling shoes and clogs are all shoe silhouettes that have been dubbed “ugly” thanks to their divisive nature. These silhouettes aren’t ugly per se, but because they are unusual or out of the ordinary, they stir up some heated opinions, thus turning heads.
These shoes are often deemed “ugly” because they don’t comply with beauty standards set in place by society. These standards traditionally favor elongated feminine silhouettes like high heels fitted with pointed toes. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, however, meaning these “less favorable” silhouettes can and have become just as popular as their easily digestible counterparts.
Kitchy and unique, these “weird” silhouettes are taking over wardrobes everywhere, dominating the 2023 footwear scene.
The Rise of “Ugly Shoes”
Out with the old, in with the ugly. Many have traded in their tried and true heels in digestible shades for “ugly” silhouettes. It’s an embrace of those styles that are more abrasive and statement-making. What’s often deemed “ugly” in the footwear scene is uncommon and hard to understand, especially when compared to the average stiletto. Thus, ugly shoes have become popular because they’re exceedingly different.
“I think when people refer to “ugly” shoes, what they actually mean is unconventional because the word ugly is so subjective. And I think that’s what people who wear them are looking for. They’re not seeking out shoes they think are ugly, but rather something unconventional that signals they’re not one to follow mainstream trends,” said stylist and creative consultant Caitlin Burke to FootwearNews.
“It makes them feel as if they’re in on some secret others are not–that old adage of ‘you just don’t get it.’ I think that notion of seeking something outside the norm, that not everyone understands or likes,” Burke continued.
More often than not, the “ugly” is much more interesting, although that’s up for debate. Funnily enough, these shoe silhouettes seem to go with almost everything despite their disagreeable nature, lending themselves well to whatever they may be paired with.
This could very well stem from a departure or a boycott of feminine silhouettes, embracing a rebellion that only a select few will “understand.” The wearers embrace modernity, taking a chance on the uncommon to stand out and make a scene.
Post Covid-19 pandemic, the world largely abandoned heeled or restrictive fashions, including heels and wedges in favor of arguably more comfortable slippers, clogs and flats that cradled the feet, working with the wearer instead of against them. The ugly shoe trend could likely stem from a need for comfort in an ever-evolving world as we shift to hybrid schedules and stay-at-home lifestyles in reaction to the aforementioned global pandemic.
These “harsh” silhouettes have always been here despite their recent popularity. Take Maison Margiela’s Tabi for example. The shoe was conceived in 1988 when Belgian designer Martin Margiela presented his first-ever collection, although the Tabi style can be traced back to 15th-century Japan. Inspired by the samurai, the Tabi silhouette features a split toe, likened to a hoove. Traditionally, construction workers, farmers, gardeners, rickshaw pullers and other laborers would don the split-toe style.
“Have been eyeing my perfect pair of Margiela Tabis. When I style these pieces I love creating contrast. Pairing the “ugly” with something ultra pretty or glam. Or just playing fully into the “ugliness,” said Anna Golka-Yepez, a TikTok fashion influencer boasting 130.5K followers on the popular social media app, to FootwearNews.
Golka-Yepez is best known for her affinity for playful and maximalist fashions shown through her get ready with me videos, unabashedly wearing what she wants when she wants to. “Avavav monster shoes come to mind first. Crocs, Margiela Tabis and Loewe’s balloon heels. I wouldn’t say all these brands solely cater to the ugly footwear clientele, but they have at least made a style or two that falls into that category,” she added.
The interesting split-toe composition acts to benefit posture and prevent foot injuries. The split toe can be found under the designer brand’s name in various boots, ballet flats and loafers in a range of hues.
Margiela’s Tabi footwear has been seen on some famous feet over the years, including Kylie Jenner, Cardi B, Dua Lipa and Chloe Sevigny, among others.
“I think a shoe falls under the category of an “ugly shoe” when it becomes more of an art piece than footwear,” said TikTok influencer Parker Halliday. “Most of the shoes that I see discourse about are all sculptural, almost like they are meant to be preserved in an acrylic box for all to see. When a shoe is deemed “ugly,” it is a completely subjective statement that depends on who is viewing it, much like art.”
Halliday boasts 13.9K followers on TikTok and posts styling and fashion-related content. “Anything deemed “ugly” goes against our standards of beauty. So while some of these shoes might not be “flattering,” they are sure to make a statement. Beauty is subjective anyway.”
Sandals
When “ugly” footwear comes into question, sandals are the first silhouette that comes to mind for many. The easy-breezy footwear silhouette is a divisive one, often comprised of a myriad of crisscrossing straps that secure the open-toed shoe in place. With this in mind, it’s important to note that the ugly sandals being referenced are nothing like the sleek and simple vacation-ready silhouettes offered by the likes of Hermes and Aldo.
Ugly sandals are quite the opposite of sleek and simple. Leaning chunky and utilitarian, these sandals often come in platform or flat styles made of unique materials that are fitted with a variety of buckle closures or decorative motifs. These silhouettes are often inspired by the outdoors and the terrains or climates one might traverse in said sandals.
These styles tend to incorporate unique and blocky and angular detailing not often found on a traditional thong sandal. Teva, Fendi, Dior, Acne Studios, Jil Sanders, Birkenstock, Chloe, Camper and Melissa are just a few brands that continue to capitalize off of the popularity of bulky, outdoorsy and “ugly” sandal silhouettes, providing audiences with diverse and unique offerings unlike anything else on the market right now. Kendall Jenner, Hailey Bieber, Katie Holmes, Demi Lovato, Chris Pine and Sofia Richie are just some of the big names who gravitate toward the ugly sandal trend.
Clogs
When thinking of the quintessential ugly shoe style, the clog comes to mind. The distinctive footwear has a rich history that can be traced back to Amsterdam in the 1300s. Traditionally made out of wood, the Dutch klomp was often worn by peasants and the lower class. The style was popular for the time because it was cheap and it protected the wearer’s feet from the elements.
Despite its traditional origins, the clog’s ability to blend seamlessly with contemporary fashion trends has secured its place in the 21st-century fashion and footwear landscapes. Modern interpretations of clogs via brands like Crocs, Birkenstock, Dries Van Noten, Chanel, Acne Studios, Alaia and Simon Miller incorporate a variety of materials and designs, from denim, mohair and leopard print to foam fur-trimmed and buckle-embellished styles.
Today’s silhouettes lean on the bulkier side, fixed with platform soles or wooden block heels that harken back to the shoe’s historical all-wooden composition. The Crocs brand, founded in 2002, is a particularly important player in the success of the clog silhouette as it pertains to the ugly footwear trend. Crocs was one of the most notable brands to take on the clog style, making for the most significant development in the silhouette’s success.
Embracing its naturally clunky and awkward silhouette, the clog style thrived in the 70s and 80s but enjoyed a resurgence in the 2000s largely thanks to Crocs. The brand made the unique silhouette easily accessible and digestible by crafting them in whimsical colors and prints made of technology that emphasized comfort. Since then, the style has been seen on the runway via Viktor and Rolf in 2007 and Chanel in 2010.
Dad sneakers
Sporty and comfortable, the dad sneaker footwear trend aims at marrying form and function. The average look of a dad sneaker is bulky and athletic, inspired by retro silhouettes that came before it. It’s easy to see why the style is dubbed ugly, given that the sneaker style mirrors those a not-so-stylish suburban father would wear while mowing the lawn or walking the family dog. Despite this, dad sneakers have been seen on trendsetters like Emily Ratajkowski and Bella and Gigi Hadid among others.
Nike ranks high in the ugly sneaker category. Performance-based or otherwise, the footwear company has a wide range of “ugly” footwear under its belt, especially regarding collaborations. Nike’s
Shox MR4 X Martine Rose sneaker, Cactus Plant Flea Market x Nike Air Flea 2 sneaker and Comme Des Garcon cleat-inspired pumps have become commonplace among influencers thanks to their head-turning appearances.
Nike’s unusual offerings don’t just stop at collaborations, however. The brand’s Air Zoom Flight 95 OG and tabi-inspired Air Rift sneaker silhouettes are also becoming exceedingly popular among sneakerheads and fashion enthusiasts.
Running Shoes
In the same vein as dad sneakers, running shoes have found themselves under the “ugly shoe” umbrella. Stepping away from their traditional use, many fashionable folks are lacing up running shoes with summery dresses and denim, taking the footwear off the field and onto the city streets. While dad sneakers are associated mainly with lifestyle footwear, running shoes are performance-based, likely even less adapted for casual wear.
Asics, Hoka, Adidas, Nike, Puma and New Balance are just some of the brands that manufacture on-trend “ugly” running shoes.
Ballet Flats
Stemming from “Balletcore,” another popular trend on the rise, ballet flats are becoming the it-girl style of the year. The style is less divisive than others under the “ugly” shoe umbrella but they still manage to divide footwear fans everywhere.
From Amy Winehouse to Jackie Kennedy, prominent celebrities have gravitated towards the footwear silhouette on a number of occasions, citing trends of the time and a need for comfort. In 2023, it’s hard to find a footwear brand that is not offering ballet flats under their proverbial belt. The options are virtually endless. Circus NY, Miu Miu, Chanel and Tory Burch are just some of the many brands with a wide range of ballet flat offerings.
“Personally, I love shoes that are so ugly that they’re cute,” said New York-based stylist and TikToker Styled by Jules, aka Jules Wettreich. “My most recent ‘ugly shoe’ I incorporated into my closet was the sneaker ballerina flat. I styled them ironically with a sock, knit top and miniskirt. I usually style the ugly shoes ironically so they fit the look. Sometimes I’ll pair the ugly shoes with a nice vintage piece or something from Ssense giving the look juxtaposition.” Wettreich’s content ranges from styling videos to women on the street interviews with strangers in the Big Apple.
Balenciaga’s “Ugly Shoes”
Many credit Balenciaga for popularizing “ugly” footwear silhouettes. The brand has always aimed to break barriers in fashion, adopting and inventing the unusual and shocking. The trend seemingly began with the brand’s ever-popular Speed Trainers, which debuted in 2016 birthed from the mind of Demna Gvasalia, Balenciaga’s current creative director.
From there, Balenciaga has continued to shell out a variety of controversial footwear styles, including their “Paris” line of sneakers made to look dirty and worn. The luxury fashion house also offers a wide range of oddly shaped ankle booties, wooden clogs, rubber slippers, ultra-chunky sneakers and even Crocs-inspired heels. “I think that notion of seeking something outside the norm, that not everyone understands or likes, is at the core of who Balenciaga’s customer is,” said Burke.
Beyond Balenciaga, designer brands like Collina Strada, Loewe, Marni and Rick Ownes are also capitalizing off of the ugly shoe trend, making it their unofficial trademark.
In her collaboration with Vans, Collina Strada’s creative director Hillary Taymour opted for daring silhouettes featuring disarming hues and graphic prints that depart from Vans’ usual neutral, skater-centric undertones. Slip-on featured doodle-esque prints, while the brand’s SK8-HI 38 DX high-tops received the tie-dye treatment mixed with subdued botanical prints.
Loewe has an extensive range of inventive footwear under its belt. From heels fixed with balloons, nail polish and broken eggs to grass-covered canvas trainers, the luxury Spanish brand embraces the weird and wonderful.
About the Author
Amina Ayoud is an Assistant Digital Editor for Footwear News, where she writes stories about everything from celebrity style to breaking fashion and shoe releases. Ayoud cultivated a love of all things fashion early in life thanks to a deep love of fashion history and the luxury industry. In her free time, Ayoud is a self-proclaimed fashion nerd and thriftaholic.
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