This U.S. Ski Resort Gets More Than 400 Inches of Snow a Year — and Sits on an Active Volcano

Where to stay, eat, and après after a day on the Mt. Hood slopes.

Snowflakes swirled around our car as we started the drive up the flank of Mt. Hood, an active volcano in Oregon that's crowned with 12 glaciers. It was not surprising that it was snowing — Mt. Hood boasts the only nearly year-round lift-served skiing in North America, with resorts reporting between 430 and 550 inches of snow a year.

We got a late start on our drive, and it was Friday. It was also the first time since high school that my childhood friends and I were skiing together, which only added to the building anticipation. All I could think was, I wonder how much snow will be at the resort? I wonder if it will be skied off? I wonder if I can keep up?

We pulled into the parking lot at Mt. Hood Meadows, the volcano's largest ski area, pulled on our gear, slung our skis over our shoulders, and made the long walk to the base — our distant parking spot punishment for sleeping in on a powder day.

Mt. Hood Meadows delivered, as did the "sneaky powder day" I was lucky enough to experience during my visit in March 2023. And I'm ready to share all the secrets to making the most of your trip to Mt. Hood, too. Here's how to plan a trip to the resort, including where to stay, what to expect, and when to go, although the important thing is that you go — as Greg Pack, the ski area's president and GM, said during our interview, "How often do you get to ski on an active volcano?"

• On average, Mt. Hood Meadows gets a lot of snow — 430 inches a year.

• The resort is known for its wide-open groomers, steeps, and glades terrain, and thanks to the amount of snow they see, the resort has few mogul runs.

• Expert riders can play along the resort’s eastern boundaries in Heather Canyon, Clark Canyon, and Private Reserve, which have cliff drops, steep pitches, and tight trees.

• Meadows has a Nordic center with almost 10 miles of groomed trails for cross-country skiers and snowshoers.

When to Go

The best time to ski and board Meadows is in January and February when there’s a good base and plenty of fresh snow. That said, historically, December and February see the most snowfall.

If you want to avoid lift lines and crowded runs, skip the days leading up to Christmas and through New Year’s Day, Martin Luther King weekend, and President’s Day weekend. The crowds tend to disperse in mid-March.

Generally, the mountain opens in late November and closes in late April. They often reopen for “bonus weekends” after daily operations end for the year. For the 2023-2024 ski season, the resort plans to end daily operations on April 21, 2024, and reopen the weekends of April 26-28 and May 3-4, 2024.

There is also night skiing at Mt. Hood Meadows five days a week — typically Wednesdays through Sundays — although the night ski schedule varies over holiday weekends, so you’ll want to review the operating schedule before you make the drive.

Where to Stay

Cooper Spur Mountain Resort: The Cooper Spur Mountain Resort is one of the most convenient places for skiers and riders to stay. It is located 20 minutes from the base of Mt. Hood Meadows, between the resort and the city of Hood River. The hotel has its own small downhill, Cooper Spur Ski Area, with Nordic skiing, snowshoeing, and snow tubing, and guests can cozy up in a standalone log cabin or one of the condos or hotel rooms. As an added perk, guests staying at Cooper Spur Hotel midweek get discounted lift tickets to Mt. Hood Meadows.

The Society Hotel: If you don’t mind a slightly longer drive (50 minutes rather than 45), you’ll want to stay at The Society Hotel across the Oregon-Washington border in Bingen, Washington. The beautiful property is built around an old schoolhouse and has an amazing spa and bathhouse with an indoor saltwater pool, an outdoor hot pool, a cold plunge, and a cedar sauna.

Hood River Hotel: If you want to walk to everything when you’re off the mountain, book a room at the Hood River Hotel, the only hotel in downtown Hood River. From your off-mountain base camp, you can walk to everything — coffee, dinner, shopping — and the skiing at Mt. Hood Meadows is less than 45 minutes away.

The Columbia Gorge Hotel & Spa: The Columbia Gorge Hotel & Spa is perfect for people who want to lean into the escape component of a ski trip and stay at a property that overlooks the Columbia Gorge and is surrounded by gardens. Rooms have an Art Deco feel, and some have fireplaces. It is 45 minutes by car to Mt. Hood Meadows.

Where to Eat

Alpenstube: This full-service restaurant and bar is nestled in the South Lodge at the base of Mt. Hood Meadows. It’s the resort’s more elevated offering in regard to food, with a menu that includes poutine, burgers, homemade soups, Swedish meatballs, and a pile of nachos that can feed your whole ski group. They also have plenty of vegan and gluten-free options.

Celilo Restaurant & Bar: If you’re staying in Hood River, spend an evening at Celilo. The restaurant is an almost 20-year veteran to the Hood River food scene but remains a local favorite, with pappardelle, house-made meatballs, and butternut squash ravioli.

Where to Après Ski

The Mazot: For a quick on-mountain beer, head to The Mazot, which has beers on tap, canned cocktails, and wine. The best part? You can enjoy your bevvy outside, at 6,000 feet above sea level, and with a view.

"Meadows offers a mix of cozy dining and drinking options, live entertainment, outdoor fire pits, and relaxing lounges. It's a place where families and friends gather to enjoy the mountain views and unwind after a day on the slopes," Katie Kadlub, the CEO of Visit Hood River, shared via email.

Riverside Lounge at the Hood River Inn: It may seem odd to include a hotel restaurant on this list, but Kadlub added that "A favorite for visitors and locals alike is après in local hotel lobbies and restaurants like the Hood River Inn or Hood River Hotel [see more on the latter, above] … This makes for a one-stop for apres ski, comfortable accommodations, and a quick return to the slopes the next morning, enhancing the overall mountain adventure."

Mt. Hood Brewing Co.: Mt. Hood Brewing Co. is located in the town of Government Camp, the closest community to Mt. Hood Meadows. Not only does the brewery sit on the flanks of a volcano, but its brews are so beloved that they've expanded into Portland and Maupin.

Off-mountain Activities

Kadlub called the area "a mountain beach destination" because it sits between Mt. Hood and the Columbia River. If you're not up for skiing and snowboarding, she recommends spending the day along the water in Hood River.

"Wander down Oak Street, lit with twinkling trees, and discover tasting rooms, artisan boutiques, and restaurants. Taste local wines in one of the many tasting rooms, enjoy a lower elevation scenic waterfall hike, or simply take a leisurely stroll along the paved waterfront path to soak in the picturesque views," Kadlub shared.

Sledding and winter hiking: Near the turn-off for Mt. Hood Meadows is Little John Sno-Park, a snow tubing hill with a warming hut. On the other side of the road is Tamanawas Falls. In the winter, the 100-foot-high falls are frozen over but can be reached on the Tamanawas Falls Trail #650 A.

Wineries and breweries: Great in-town wineries and breweries include Evoke Winery, which recently won accolades at the 2023 Seattle Wine Awards, and Pfriem Family Brewers, which is set along the Columbia River.

Shopping: Our favorite Hood River shops are Doug's Hood River for mountain-meet-sea duds (think Olukai, Patagonia, Brixton, and Roxy), and Twiggs for delicate jewelry, pottery, and home goods. G. Willikers Toy Shoppe is a must-visit if you have kids in tow, and Waucoma Bookstore, which has been selling books since 1976, is a great place to spend a cold morning.

How to Ride

Tickets: Mt. Hood Meadows is one of the few ski areas not linked to the Ikon or Epic pass. If you want to ski the Meadows, you can either buy an Indy Pass, which provides access to over 180 independent resorts or purchase a single-day lift ticket in advance online. For the latter, Meadows uses dynamic pricing, meaning the price goes up as more people reserve a day. For a full-day adult lift ticket, rates start at $40 and can reach up to $164 during peak times. They also sell partial mountain tickets for beginner riders.

Rentals: There are ski and board rentals (including outerwear rentals) through the ski area, but during my visit, I rented my skis from Doug’s. If you’re staying in or near Hood River, you can save a buck by picking up your skis from a Hood River rental shop, like Dougs, and toting your gear to the mountain.

Parking: The parking policy at Oregon ski areas differs from what you’ll find in other states. Between November 1 and April 30, you’ll need a Sno-Park Parking Permit to park in any parking lot maintained by the state (including Mt. Hood Meadows parking lots). You can nab a permit online, here, or stop by the HRM Lodge at Meadows to get one. You can also find the permits at other authorized permit agents around the state. The cost for a single day is $4 or $9 for three consecutive days.

Skiing and Snowboarding Info

Mountain stats: Mt. Hood Meads has 11 lifts and over 85 runs across its 2,150 skiable acres. There is something for everyone at Meadows, but a majority of the terrain is suited to intermediate and expert riders, with 15 percent of the runs designed for beginners (green rating), 40 percent for intermediate riders (blue), and 45 percent that should only be ridden by advanced or expert skiers and boarders (black diamond).

"There is something for everyone on this mountain, as the beginner area has some great progression-type terrain, and you can also ski above the tree line in some expansive bowls," said Pack. Mt. Hood Meadows also has several terrain parks, including a superpipe and a banked slalom.

Programming: If it's your first time skiing or snowboarding, or you want a local to show you around the mountain and offer pointers, you can book a lesson with an instructor through the PSIA-certified Meadows Learning Center. Mt. Hood Meadows has lessons for all ages — from age 3 to adults — with full and partial-day options. Like Meadows lift tickets and gear rentals, you should reserve your lesson in advance for the best pricing and will find lower rates during the week and off-peak times. They also offer private lessons, lessons at night, and multi-day and multi-week programs.

"We offer a plethora of opportunities for lessons for both kids and adults. Whether you want to do a multi-day clinic, private or group lesson, or a multi-week program, Meadows has you covered," said Pack. There's also a certified daycare center for children ages six weeks to 11 years old.

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