Tweed and Martinis: The Best of Pitti Uomo 2023
You can never have too much tweed, ties, or too many martinis. At least, that's how the men attending this year's bi-annual Pitti Uomo make it seem. From afar, the four-day trade show looks like a Super Bowl for dapper dandies worldwide except the action takes place on the streets of Florence and the pomp and circumstance certainly eclipse the American tradition. But, through the smokescreen of late nights at the newly-opened Chic Nonna and wardrobes that are ever so primmed and pressed, the trade show holds a significant amount of substance in the world of menswear.
For the past 50 years, Pitti Uomo has been an opportunity for menswear brands to show off their latest collection to menswear editors and buyers. (If King Charles wasn't born a royal, he'd probably be one of them). Housed within the Fortezza da Basso, the event's official location since 1982, over 600 menswear brands congregate at once. Among them are brands like Brunello Cucinelli, Martine Rose, and Kiton.
"[It's] a boiling pot of different people who all have a communal love for menswear and fashion," influencer and sustainable fashion editor Brett Staniland tells Town and Country. "It’s an extremely accessible fashion week, so once you’re in Fortezza de Basso you have access to hundreds of brands and collections from start-ups to prestigious Italian tailoring brands and sustainable-focused designers all under one roof. "
But, of course, clothes aren't the only thing to be seen. Outside of the Fortezza, is what frequent attendee Zachary Weiss describes as a "menswear university town" where Trattoria Camillo is always booked for dinner by the crowds, and the front café at the Ferragamo-owned Portrait Hotel Firenze on the river provides a well of espresso. " No one appreciates a new coat or a pair of rare vintage trousers like a fellow Pitti-goer," he tells Town and Country. "The accompanying social scene away from the Fotezza is similarly democratic. Lots of new friends are made."
Below, we've rounded up the best moments from Pitti Uomo.
Brunello Cucinelli Hosts a Lavish Dinner Party
Nestled within the Grand Hall of Palazzo Borghese, Brunello Cucinelli hosted what might've been the most decadent event of the season. Friends of the house, editors, and more gathered together to enjoy the sheer beauty of fine Italian craftsmanship, architecture, and cuisine.
An Ethereal Mid-Runway Performance at the Jan-Jan Van Essche Show
They say that fashion shows are meant to evoke emotion, and what better way than staging mid-show performance? This was the case at Jan-Jan Van Essche's Pitti show. Following the traditional format of models walking up and down the runway, clad in the designer's flowing silhouettes and elongated scarves, guests were treated to a poetic performance before the grand finale.
Polo Assnt Brings the American Spirit to Italy
Sports are often the common ground for international events, and at Pitti Uomo, polo is a crowd favorite. At Pitti Uomo, Polo Assnt hosted an event within the Fortezza Da Basso showing off their latest set of chinos, polos, and other sporty accessories.
Baldessarini Looks to The Alps
Ski season is well-underway, and fashion house Baldessarini is making sure that all who partake are dressed stylishly for the occasion. But, standard apparel isn't cutting it for creative director Florian Wortmann. Instead, puffer jackets are made in vibrant, geometrical designs, trousers are loose, and leather seems to be the fabric of choice for apres-ski happenings.
Designer Luke Edward Hall's Brand Chateau Orlando Debuts at Pitti Uomo
Artist and designer Luke Edward Hall takes his fifth collection to Pitti Uomo for the first time ever. The collection is a treasure trove of delight with folklore and mythial motifs, a mixture of ancient and contemporary art, and an air of vintage aesthetics which still somehow feel very contemporary.
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