Tupelo staple Johnnie's Drive-In still as popular ever as 80th anniversary nears
TUPELO – With some 400 of its doughburgers — along with plenty of hamburger steaks and barbecue sandwiches — sold daily to local customers and tourists alike, Johnnie's Drive-In doesn't appear to be slowing down even as it approaches its 80th year.
The All-America City's oldest continuously run restaurant has changed little from when Johnnie and Margaret Chism opened it on Oct. 17, 1945. Its walls are covered with photos and memorabilia, most related to Tupelo's most famous son, Elvis Presley, whose booth is marked prominently at the diner. But it's not on display to just look at and admire; people can sit in it, and customers from all over the world make it a point to get a photo made while they're there munching on the doughburger (or "Johnnie Burger" or "Elvis Burger" as it's called).
Across its eight decades, the restaurant on East Main Street has had only four owners — or five if you count Don Knight, who bought it twice. The Chisms sold Johnnie's to Knight in 1980, who sold it in 2002 and bought it back in 2009. Johnnie's current owners, Christi and Craig White, have owned it since July 2020.
Christi also happens to be Don Knight's daughter.
"We always wanted to keep it in the family, and so I guess the plan was aways in the back of my mind," she said. "Mom and dad wanted me to do my own thing, so I graduated from Ole Miss and I used my accounting degree and did my thing for 15 years and came back here."
The Whites have made some minor renovations, but nothing too drastic. The restaurant is as classic as its most famous patron's hit records.
"You move a picture on the wall so you can paint it, but if not's back in the same spot, then it's like, 'the picture isn't there' or 'what happened to it?'" Christi said with a laugh. "Everybody is so used to everything being a certain way."
About the only major changes over the years have been the prices.
But the doughburgers — a mixture of beef, flour and water — have been a staple from the beginning.
And even through recessions, economic downturns and a pandemic, Johnnie's has always been a reliable, iconic spot in East Tupelo.
"We really haven't missed a beat," Christi said. "Even when COVID hit, and people were scared about what would happen, we were a little apprehensive about taking over the restaurant. We wanted to maintain what had been established, making sure we had good service, and the food was great."
The Whites have answered the challenge, as witnessed by the steady beat of business that comes daily, whether the customers come inside or sit in their cars.
"Most everybody that comes here, especially the locals, we know their names, we know what they drink, what they eat," Christi said. "Sometimes they'll switch up on us to keep us on our toes. We have a lot of fun."
The iconic restaurant was once Elvis' favorite Tupelo eating spot, where he enjoyed doughburgers with an RC Cola. And yes, you can get that exact combo, making Johnnie's a major draw for tourists.
The Elvis Presley Birthplace and Museum is nearby, and the visitors there are often directed to Johnnie's. It is a mutually beneficial relationship.
"We get to meet people from all walks of life, from every state and every corner of the world," Christi said. "They all want to sit in Elvis' booth. We make sure everybody gets a chance to sit it the booth. Some people just want a picture and that's fine. If you're sitting at one table and it's free, we'll move you over. We just want everybody to be happy."
The tourists who sit in the Elvis booth usually get the doughburger, but Johnnie's also is known for its ribeye steak sandwiches, hamburger steaks, barbecue sandwiches and barbecue plates.
"But doughburgers are the top-seller by far," Christi said.
The recipe for the doughburgers, of course, is a secret, but it is a blend of ground beef, flour and water and always cooked on a flattop griddle which has been around for decades. It imparts a flavor that just can't be replicated.
Johnnie's signature burger is not to be confused with another Mississippi classic, the similar but distinct slugburger. According to Christi, these are typically made with pork, and deep fried.
"Everybody tweaks their doughburgers and makes them a little different, which is fine of course," she said.
Johnnie's doughburgers are sometimes called Dudie burgers, which were the creation of Truman "Christian" Dudie, who owned Dudie's Diner from 1947-1983.
Johnnie Chism was Dudie's brother-in-law, and legend has it that Dudie's original version of the doughburger differed as well. But Christi said Johnnie's doughburger has remained unchanged since 1945.
"We sell on average 400 a day, and that's not counting for the extras we have to prepare when tourists come in," she said.
And Johnnie's doughburgers are traditionally dressed with mustard, onions and three pickles.
But, Christi said, "I was always taught to dress it on the bottom bun, which freaks some people out because they say we did it wrong. But that's the way my daddy taught me, and that's the way I did it."
However, some modifications are allowed.
"You can add cheese, you can add ketchup, you can even add tomato and mayonnaise if you want to," she said. "We'll dress however you want it. As long as you pay for it, we're cool. We aim to please."
