Welcome to Dialed In, Esquire's column bringing you horological happenings and the most essential news from the watch world since March 2020. This week, we're working with the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie as Media Partner of Watches and Wonders Geneva. Visit Watches and Wonders' website for news and video panels daily, and keep checking back here for all the updates you need to know about.
While the horological world always gets worked up about a new movement or the groundbreaking use of materials, often the shallower of us (like me for instance) are equally diverted by decorative innovations like a new accent color. So, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight 925 is surely going to make everyone happy because it has all three. Most immediately striking are the dial and ceramic bezel in a smoky, gray brown, a shade the brand is calling taupe, and a satin-finish 925 silver case—a first for a Tudor dive watch.
In other firsts, the BB58 comes for the first time with an exhibition caseback, a diversion from the tooly, workman-like tradition established by the first black version in 2018 and the very popular navy version launched just last summer. To seal the deal, a slightly redesigned movement the MT5400 is visible through the sapphire. Under one of the lugs is a Swiss hallmark for the 925, a Saint Bernard dog. The watch is available with a fabric or leather strap, both with a 925 silver buckle.
If, however, you really want to dive into the precious end of these new Tudors and be bang on trend for the week while you’re at it, you may consider the slightly flashier 18 karat gold version of the suitably named Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K. It comes with a very much of-this-moment green dial and ceramic bezel and a case with a satin finish similar to that of the 925 version. Both watches are dive rated to 600ft.
Back in the business end of Tudor come two new Black Bay Chronographs in a yin-versus-yang combination of panda (off-white “opaline” dial with black sub dials) and reverse panda displays (the other way around logically). Both are in a slightly larger 41mm in stainless steel, with Tudor’s signature snowflake hands, a date window at 6 o’clock, and pump-action chrono pushers. Each comes on a fabric strap, bund-style leather, or an optional steel bracelet. If you can’t decide between them, buy both!
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