Trussardi RTW Fall 2023
After a few runway shows, Trussardi’s creative directors Serhat Işık and Benjamin A. Huseby switched to the presentation format held inside the newly revamped store, next to Milan’s opera house Teatro La Scala.
From behind their upstairs office’s windows, they can easily spot Milanese “sciure,” the nickname given to local Ladies Who Lunch — hair perfectly combed, attitude always mannered and polite, style aplenty. They became the collection’s muses naturally as the designers grow fonder of the city.
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“It’s the idea of daytime glamour [because] the perception [people have] of Milan and the reality are quite different. [Sciure] are kind of the last beacon of that Milanese chic, a fading aesthetic, that we wanted to make interesting for younger generations,” Işık said.
The duo built a wardrobe taking quite literal cues from the oversize mink coats, the pencil skirts and double-breasted coats with an hourglass-y silhouette one could spot on ladies gossiping at one of the local tony pastry spots.
Bias-cut handkerchief frocks trimmed in leather paired with gauzy turtlenecks, ruffled miniskirts done in purple leather and egg-shaped, cocooning puffers read “sciura’s granddaughter,” who clearly got the memo on how to strike a balance between cheeky and chic. They may be borrowing from their Italian grannies’ closets, but delivered a Parisian vibe.
“It takes time to really get into the fabrics of the city,” Huseby admitted of Milan.
And of a legacy brand, too.
Launch Gallery: Trussardi RTW Fall 2023
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