At Missoni, there is always a distinctly ethereal sense of beauty—and this season was no exception. But while the collection itself—flared-collar shirts, textured blazers, and patchwork dresses—drew inspiration from the ’70s by way of It couple Jane Birkin and Serge Gainsbourg, above the neck the show nodded to the ’90s—or more specifically, the decade as captured through the lens of the late Peter Lindbergh. Musing on the stylish androgyny the legendary fashion photographer often captured in his black-and-white photographs, hairstylist Anthony Turner crafted individual “messy French twists” in the spirit of the era’s minimalist insouciance.
“The natural thing to do with the clothes is something bohemian and floaty, but we wanted to purposefully counteract that,” Turner explained backstage, holding a fistful of bobby pins that would soon be put to work in Bella Hadid’s peroxide lengths. “We wanted to give the girls a bit of a swagger, but also keep a certain romance to it. There were a lot of boxes to tick, but I think we’ve done it.”
Dreaming up deconstructed updos that hinged largely on volume, Turner worked Moroccanoil Root Boost into the hair, scrunched it, and then ran sections through a curling iron, adding extra height in the front. Once lengths had dried, he pulled the hair back haphazardly with pins. “Shoving lots of bobby pins in—it’s quite a ’90s thing to do,” he said, smiling. “There’s nothing technical about it. It’s an organized mess.” He then swept and twisted the hair up to one side, securing it into place without overthinking it.
For the majority of models, the finishing touch was a deluge of Luminous Hairspray to reflect the giant outdoor swimming pools that flanked the runway, but for others, like Korean model Sora Choi, that step was followed by an extra flourish: sprigs of fresh flowers pinned delicately into the twist. “It’s quite pretty for a wedding or a summer event, no?” posed Turner. How right he was: The look, paired with makeup artist Lynsey Alexander’s boyish brows, tawny lids, and glossy skin—also inspired by Lindbergh—offered a lesson in alternative, cool-girl wedding hair.
Originally Appeared on Vogue