Travel to Hong Kong Is Back — Here's What It's Like to Visit and What to See and Do
After three years of near-total closure, Hong Kong is finally back on the tourist map. One travel reporter returns to the city to determine what’s changed — and what’s better than ever.
Virgile Simon Bertrand/Courtesy of Herzog & de Meuron
The new M+ museum, in the West Kowloon Cultural District, as seen from Hong Kong Island.It seemed almost too good to be true. After 34 months of hard quarantine rules and ever-shifting regulations that scared off all but the most determined travelers, Hong Kong announced in late 2022 that it would drop almost all COVID-19 restrictions. These days, only a self-administered rapid test is required of visitors coming from the U.S.
I jumped at the chance to be one of the first Americans to enter under the newly relaxed rules. Though I hadn’t been to Hong Kong since May 2019, this would be my 12th visit to the city — a place that my parents once called home. Much has changed, as a result of both the pandemic and recent political turmoil, including protests against government curbs on freedom of expression. Yet I still found much to enjoy, not least Hong Kong’s blend of Chinese and international cultural influences — a mix that, as a Chinese American, resonates particularly strongly for me.
“Now more than ever, we want to remind travelers what there is to love about our city — its rich and layered culture, its historic-meets-contemporary atmosphere,” says Hugo Montanari, managing director of the Rosewood Hong Kong.
Here’s how to make the most of a trip, whether it’s your first, or just your first in a while.
What’s New Around Town
Lok Cheng/Courtesy of M+, Hong Kong
Human One, by the artist Beeple, on view at M+.Despite the difficulties of the past few years, Hong Kong has undergone a museum renaissance, particularly in the West Kowloon Cultural District, which sprawls along reclaimed land lining Victoria Harbour. The centerpiece is M+, a self-described “global museum of visual culture,” which opened in November 2021. During my visit, I was impressed by several exhibits, including the permanent installation Conserving Neon Culture, which celebrates the electric signs that have illuminated Hong Kong for decades. Though a Yayoi Kusama show closed in mid-May, other intriguing options, like a survey of contemporary Chinese art, will run through the summer.
Meanwhile, the Peak Tram, a Hong Kong classic since it opened in 1888, has gotten a glow-up. In August 2022, new (if retro-looking) carriages increased capacity on the line by 75 percent and are wheelchair accessible. Unchanged is the lovely journey from Central to the top of Victoria Peak, where visitors can soak in sweeping views of the Hong Kong skyline.
Where to Stay Now
Courtesy of Four Seasons Hotels and Resorts
The Glass Room at Argo, an ambitious Art Deco-style cocktail bar at the Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong.For much of the past three years, Hong Kong’s legendary hotels have hosted local staycationers rather than overseas visitors — but they’ve also taken time to rebuild and refresh. Four Seasons Hotel Hong Kong, for example, redesigned its 399 rooms and suites and opened Argo, an ambitious art deco–ish bar with skyline views that went straight onto the 2022 World’s 50 Best list. “We have full confidence that Hong Kong is back on the global stage,” says hotel general manager Christian Poda.
Other big names, such as Mandarin Oriental, Hong Kong and Regent Hong Kong, which was formerly the InterContinental, have also gone through major renovations. For its part, The Peninsula Hong Kong has introduced wellness programs, including classes and mindfulness retreats.
New properties on the scene include The St. Regis Hong Kong, which was Marriott’s 7,000th hotel when it opened in 2019. The Fullerton Ocean Park Hotel Hong Kong is the brand’s first in the city — and its first-ever resort-style property, with a spa, a massive pool, and a water park.
Montanari, the Rosewood GM, is meanwhile eager to show off his hotel, which occupies 25 floors of a 65-story Kowloon tower overlooking the harbor. Though the property opened in 2019, this year will be the first opportunity many international guests will have to see it. “We expect a resurgence of international business and leisure travel,” the hotelier tells T+L. “And we’re looking forward to the return of cultural events such as Art Basel.”
The Scoop on Dining
Hecho/Courtesy of Sake Central
Toasting a reopened Hong Kong at Sake Central.In addition to easing entry requirements, authorities in Hong Kong have eliminated the curfews and mask mandates that had kept a tight lid on dining out. “There’s an optimism in the air,” says Elliot Faber, a restaurateur who has lived in Hong Kong for more than a decade. “Now is a great time to visit, because you can feel the energy — but it’s not impossible to get a seat,” adds Faber, who’s part of the team at Sake Central. “I see things improving for the first time in a long time.”
Getting There Made Easier
In March, United Airlines resumed its daily nonstops from San Francisco, on Boeing 777s outfitted with 60 Polaris business-class seats. At the same time, Cathay Pacific continues to increase service between the city and the U.S., with capacity expected to return to pre-pandemic levels by 2024. The carrier is also one of four working with the Hong Kong Tourism Board to give away 500,000 free flights to the city, including some seats reserved for North Americans. Sadly for those who didn’t jump at the offer, the free seats have already been snapped up, Cathay Pacific says, “due to popular demand.”
A version of this story first appeared in the May 2023 issue of Travel + Leisure under the headline "Electric Once More.”
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