It Took Five Years For Ollie Henry to Find This Wave at The Right
Ollie Henry is no stranger to good waves. It’s not an easy feat, since finding consistently good surf often requires a whole lot of foresight and travel, but when you’re dedicated, it’s doable. And Ollie Henry is nothing if not dedicated. He is, of course, dedicated to surfing waves that most of us would not, but who are we to yuk his yum? The day you see in the edit above, however, is a special one.
“This is the story of the best day of surfing I’ve had in my life so far,” Henry wrote. “In West Oz, we get hammered by big swells all winter but rarely have light offshore winds come with ’em.”
Henry has been surfing “The Right” for a long time now. Half a decade or so, in fact, but it’s not a wave that someone gets to know easily. It’s a wave that only a handful of surfers in the world even consider surfing. But when the stars align and The Right turns into the monster everyone knows it can become, that handful is on it. And Henry is certainly part of the handful.
When he laid eyes on the conditions, he knew it was going to be a different day. It’s a frustrating wave to surf, but the juice, for those who are willing to put the time in, is worth the squeeze.
“This day was an exception,” Henry finished, “and after five years of surfing The Right I finally managed to get a proper nug.”
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