From Toners to Moisturizers: The 7 Best Ways to Balance Your Combination Skin
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People with combination skin are often overlooked in the skincare biz. It’s assumed that your skin is either oily or dry—and never the twain shall meet—that, or you’re one of those unicorns with “normal” skin. The more I write skincare articles, the more I realize that “normal” skin is the least normal of the bunch. In fact, I’d posit that combination skin is perhaps the most normal of them all. It assumes that our skin’s natural nourishment can change with the seasons, and is often two different things at once.
Combination skin is usually characterized by having an oily T-zone (the forehead and nose) as well as dry cheeks and chin. The jawline and hairline are more often dry, but they can go either way. And because these two polar-opposite hydration levels can exist at the same time, combination skin also requires a balanced approach when it comes to a regimen, says board-certified dermatologist Brandon Kirsch, M.D., of Kirsch Dermatology in Naples, Fla.
“I advise anyone with combination skin to start by avoiding habits that may disrupt the balance of your skin. This includes over-washing or using harsh cleansers which can strip your skin of natural oils,” says Kirsch. “These products make dry areas drier and oily areas more oil-prone. Similarly, avoid excessively heavy creams on drier parts of your skin, which can lead to blocked pores.”
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Read on for the key ingredients he endorses for this regimen—and the products that will give you the best version of each.
1. Hyaluronic Acid: Hyaluronic acid can hold up to 1000 times its weight in water, and can also retain that moisture for a long period of time. “Hyaluronic acid is a great choice for combination skin as it can help moisturize the dry areas without making the oily areas oilier,” says Kirsch.
2. Niacinamide: Niacinamide is a form of Vitamin B3 that has a long list of skincare benefits, including the ability to regulate sebum production. This makes it excellent for combination skin, says Kirsch. “Niacinamide reduces oiliness in the T-zone while keeping the dry areas of the skin adequately moisturized. It also has anti-inflammatory properties that can soothe skin and minimize the appearance of pores.”
3. Green Tea Extract: Here is a versatile ingredient that won’t aggravate dryness or oiliness, and allows you to bolster skin with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. “Green tea extract helps protect the skin from environmental stressors, and can reduce redness and inflammation, while also regulating sebum production and reducing oiliness in the T-zone,” Kirsch explains.
4. Witch Hazel: You can’t really discuss the skincare category of “toners” without mentioning witch hazel. That’s because witch hazel is one of nature’s best skin balancers, to prevent your face from getting too dry or irritated, while also balancing oil production. “A good toner can balance the skin’s pH after cleansing, which is crucial for maintaining healthy skin,” says Kirsch. “Toners formulated with witch hazel can control oil production in the T-zone area (forehead, nose, and chin) while hydrating the drier areas of the face. Look for toners that are alcohol-free to avoid unnecessary drying.” He adds that many combination-skin-friendly toners also include hyaluronic acid and aloe vera.
5. Clay or Charcoal: Clay and charcoal are regarded as the best skin-purifying ingredients, and they can do this without depleting you of moisture, too. This makes them perfect for managing oil levels. (You can even target them in your T-zone.) Don’t be afraid to “multimask,” either—using a detox mask on the oily parts and a hydrating mask on the dry parts, a process Kirsch happily endorses.
6. Retinoids: Retinoids are one of those universally good ingredients that can aid just about every skincare effort. These Vitamin A derivatives improve cellular turnover to prevent clogged pores as well as to keep surface texture smooth (benefiting both oily and dry skin types). They also significantly reduce and prevent the appearance of fine lines, dark spots, wrinkles, and more. If your dry patches of skin are sensitive, then consider switching to a retinoid alternative, like the natural ingredient bakuchiol. However, if your skin can tolerate high-grade retinoids, you should speak with your dermatologist about a prescription for tretinoin.
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