Following his see now, buy now fall runway show in New York, Tommy Hilfiger continued to tap into his signature prep a la Andy Warhol to debut a transitional spring collection with fresh hues and modern proportions.
“A new prep, inspired by Andy Warhol and his days in Montauk,” Hilfiger said during a showroom appointment. “It’s really a mix of beachy coastal classics, and always preppy — but new prep.”
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In women’s, the idea came across strongly with a mix of nautical stapes (and Warhol-esque prints), monogrammed utility styles (especially strong in sustainable denim, like a monogram boxy shirt with slouchy jeans or high-waisted skirt with cropped Breton stripe and logo’d crewneck) and prepster, archival references (including a leather varsity jacket, casual suiting, loafers with monogram hardware, seersucker striped shirting, and an array of sportif knits). Like fall, Hilfiger smartly played with proportions in silhouettes, seen best through a shrunken striped rib cardigan with high-waisted lime green trousers or an oversize cable cricket sweater.
“It’s real Tommy prep, but oversize. I think the silhouettes and proportions are really cool because we haven’t seen this way oversize in a long time. We started it in September and carried through with it,” Hilfiger explained.
The aesthetic was similar for the guys. “For the men,” he said, “it’s high, it’s wide, it’s shorter and it’s oversize.”
That was evident in both the tailored clothing and the sportswear with everything from the brand’s signature rugby sweaters to a nautical striped double-breasted suit in a slouchy silhouette serving to effectively walk the line between nostalgia and modernity.
The designer said the collection is tight, but “bigger than a capsule” and is intended to connect the spring and pre-fall seasons.
Launch Gallery: Tommy Hilfiger RTW Spring 2023