The Tom Ford-Era Gucci Horsebit Clutch Is Back and Better Than Ever
- Oops!Something went wrong.Please try again later.
- Oops!Something went wrong.Please try again later.
If you purchase an independently reviewed product or service through a link on our website, WWD may receive an affiliate commission.
A handbag is not just simply a handbag. If this were the case, there would never have been an “It” bag, a designer handbag that is elevated to the highest level of popularity as one of the most coveted accessories on the market during a particular time period. As Karl Lagerfeld once said, “luxury bags make your life more pleasant, make you dream, give you confidence, and show your neighbours you’re doing well.”
More from WWD
During the ‘90s and the early aughts, a number of leather and canvas carriers rose to the level of It bag-status, such as the Fendi Baguette and Dior’s Saddle bag, both of which have had a resurgence in recent years. And for many fashion lovers, these holy purses would forever hold a place in our hearts as keepers of core memories, like precious subconscious time capsules of our lives and culture. Now, those iconic bags are remembered and celebrated on Pinterest boards and Instagram accounts like @Y2Kbags. And today, on the day of Gucci’s fall 2023 runway show, the first womenswear collection since the departure of creative director Alessandro Michele, I’m reminded of a bag that never quite achieved It bag-status, but nonetheless made a lasting impression in my life as a young student of fashion: the Gucci Horsebit Chain Clutch.
In an unexpected move from the house of Gucci, the trapezoid-shaped bag with large horsebit hardware has reemerged for the first time since 2004. Gucci refreshed the bag in a new variety of colorways — from bold red and vibrant yellow to an array of versatile neutrals — and textures — from plush shearling to padded leather and even a crystal-covered eye candy. Without a singular successor to the Gucci throne, the design team paid homage to the designers and artisans that contributed to the house’s identity that made it one of the most powerful Italian luxury labels, specifically taking inspiration from the past 30 years of the brand’s history. Though the runway show also featured new Jackie bags and other bag styles, the elongated clutch with large horsebit hardware from the height of Tom Ford’s reign at Gucci made the most impact in the collection of 53 looks.
In 1955, Gucci introduced the original equestrian-inspired Horesbit bag, just two years after the horsebit detail made its debut on Gucci loafers. “The horsebit motif quickly became synonymous with the fashion house,” says Noelle Sciacca, Senior Fashion Lead at The RealReal. And though Ford incorporated the horsebit hardware into his clutch design, Michele is credited with reviving the classic bag with his 2020 cruise collection, which Sciacca says is when horsebit styles grew in popularity. “If we look at 2020 compared to 2022, demand for Gucci horsebits has gone up 130%.”
Ford’s horsebit interpretation might not have reached the highest of bag status heights, but it was a bestseller for the brand. The first collections in the new millennium mostly featured minimalist bags that lacked flashy logos or brand signatures until spring 2003, which included bags that featured the house’s signature bamboo detail. The following season, fall 2003, was when Ford debuted the Horsebit Chain Clutch. Shown in only black and an off-white colorway, the bag’s attraction was all in the fine details, with a mixture of textures and hardware. Gucci also featured the bag in the fall 2003 ad campaign, photographed by Mario Testino, in an image featuring model Dewi Driegen, topless and accessorized with leather opera gloves and aviator sunglasses (very on-trend for 2023) while holding an adorable naked baby.
For the following collection, spring 2004, the Horsebit Chain Clutch was electrified with pops of color (both for the hardware and leather), eye-catching textural mixes, and of course, Gucci’s signature logo print. These bags were a feast for the eyes and designed for the bold and unapologetically glamorous Gucci woman of the time — the epitome of a statement bag.
One of the more notable celebrity style moments for the bag design was in March 2004, when Tom Ford was awarded a Rodeo Walk of Style Award in Beverly Hills. Actress Lucy Liu and singer Gloria Gaynor both carried the Horsebit Chain Clutch bag at the event, along with a number of other attendees.
Unfortunately, Gucci had some stiff competition out there for the It bag crown from competitors, such as Louis Vuitton and Dior. The aughts were a high point for both the Gucci brand and Tom Ford, but as senior management at PPR (now Kering) looked to seek more control over Gucci Group, it would lead to the end of an era. Tom Ford closed out his tenure with the Fall 2004 collection, one of his most glamorous collections praised by all. However, the large horsebit design was absent from the runway in favor of bags that featured hardware in the shape of a two-headed dragon (which was also applied to a gown in the collection). As his final collection for Gucci became one of the most important runway shows of the season, the clutch had just missed its moment in the spotlight. Plus, 2004 ushered in a new wave of more robustly-shaped designer bags with heavy hardware, such as the Chloé Paddington bag designed by Phoebe Philo, that were less glam and more grit, ideal for everyday dressing.
The bag silhouette and large horsebit detail only emerged once in a Gucci collection since Tom Ford’s time at the label. In 2011, designer Frida Gianini incorporated the bag into the G. Gucci Firenze 1921 collection, which was a limited-edition collection to celebrate Gucci’s 90th anniversary.
Though the bag style departed from the fashion stratosphere, this wasn’t the last time we would see the Horsebit Chain Clutch. Duchess of Cambridge Kate Middleton carried the clutch in November 2012 to a rugby match in Wales, the same red version that was also carried by Jennifer Aniston in an episode of Friends, “The One Where Ross Is Fine” in 2003, as discovered by a fan on Twitter and reported by Hello Magazine.
Cut to 2019, when Kendall Jenner was spotted on several occasions sporting a monogrammed version of the Tom Ford-era bag from the spring 2004 collection with yellow and green croc-embossed leather detail, and again in February 2022. Then, in late 2022, Rihanna, a style icon whose style influence knows no bounds, carried a red velvet version of the bag with crystal embellishments while attending a reggae show in Barbados. Featured in the hands of such influential style figures, could this have inspired the design team at Gucci to bring it back?
“The clutch is a particularly popular silhouette often bought in ‘fair’ condition – showing more signs of wear,” Sciacca shares about the bag style’s popularity on The RealReal. “Since it’s no longer in production, shoppers are happy to have it with a little more wear to make it their own.” Though purchasing worn-in vintage bags has become a popular shopping trend on The RealReal, according to the company’s 2023 luxury consignment report, it will be interesting to see if shoppers opt for the glossy new versions or seek out the older Tom Ford designs.
Coincidence or not, the elongated bag’s return perfectly pairs with the decadent trends for Fall 2023: frocks of sequins, lace, feathers, and sexy sheer fabric. Daytime or evening, the bag’s undeniable versatility makes it a worthy bet for It bag status.
While the fashion pendulum swings between the Demna-heralded Dystopia-core to dopamine-inducing fashions full of opulence that evoke a sense of optimism, the new Gucci collection defies gravity. Described in the brand’s press release as an “exuberant conversation between past and future” and “an illustration of Gucci’s beating heart,” this celebratory moment in the Italian fashion house’s history will be a core memory for both fashion insiders and fanatics, one where this beloved Horsebit Chain Clutch bag will certainly not be forgotten.
Related Reading: The Best Designer Handbags
Shop the Vintage Gucci Horsebit Chain Clutch
Gucci Mini Leather Horsebit Clutch
Gucci Mini Leather Horsebit Clutch
Gucci GG Canvas Horsebit Chain Clutch
Gucci GG Canvas Horsebit Chain Clutch
Shop Gucci Horsebit Bags
Gucci Horsebit 1955 Small Bag
Gucci Horsebit 1955 Small Bag
Gucci Horsebit 1955 GG Crystal Mini Bag
Gucci Horsebit 1955 GG Crystal Mini Bag
Meet the Author
Adam Mansuroglu is the Director of Commerce for WWD and Footwear News, top editing and writing shopping content for both sites. The Brooklyn-native has written and edited countless fashion stories for publications such as Cosmopolitan, Men’s Health, Out Magazine and more for over 12 years. Mansuroglu has followed Gucci’s collections since 2002, as Tom Ford’s designs for the brand inspired him in his teen years to pursue a career as a fashion editor.
Sign up for WWD's Newsletter. For the latest news, follow us on Twitter, Facebook, and Instagram.
