Time is of the Essence for an Unforgettable Whisky
There’s something extra contained within the elegant packaging of the latest additions to Bowmore’s Timeless Series. An hourglass that mirrors the shape of the box itself is tucked discreetly inside; once the little timepiece is turned over, the grains of sand will fill the base in precisely three minutes—the perfect length of time, it’s suggested, in which to absorb the complex aromas of the whisky before you begin to consider its taste.
Whisky is all about time—nowhere more so than at the historic Bowmore distillery on the island of Islay, off the coast of Scotland. Set on the shores of Lochindaal—a sea loch connected directly to the wild currents of the Atlantic Ocean—the establishment is nestled in some of the oldest rock formations in the world. The distillery is the oldest on Islay, founded in 1779, and its time-honoured techniques have been preserved and perfected over subsequent generations.
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Tradition and timing remain central to the distillery. Bowmore still has its own malt barn—a rarity these days—where it continues to malt its own barley in a process made of several precisely timed stages. The raw barley is steeped for exactly 27 hours in fresh water sourced from the nearby River Laggan, then the soaked grains are spread out on the stone floors, where, after 24 hours, they are ready for turning. Every four hours for the next seven days, the malt men use large wooden shovels to turn the barley, keeping the grains aerated and the germination consistent. Thereafter, the barley is taken to the kiln for drying, another carefully regulated process in which peat is added to the furnaces for the first 18 hours, followed by hot air for the following 42 hours.
From there, it’s onto the mill, the mash house, the tun room, and the still house before the final—and arguably, the most important—process, maturation, takes place in Bowmore’s famous No. 1 vaults, set below sea level. There, the cool, dark, damp sanctuary protects from the waves thrashing against the sea-facing wall, while imbuing the whiskies with a certain maritime minerality.
For all Bowmore whiskies—from the 12-Year-Old to the rare Black Bowmore 50-Year-Old—time is precisely measured and never rushed, just like the suggested three-minute contemplation of the aromas of the newly released Timeless Series bottlings.
The latest addition to the series, limited to just 3,000 bottles, has been matured for 29 years. The Bowmore Timeless 29-Year-Old was aged in a combination of sherry-seasoned European oak casks and ex-bourbon American oak barrels. The maturation endows the resultant whisky with a wealth of flavours: sherry-soaked raisin, cocoa, bitter orange, cherry blossom, and liquorice. But it’s not just the kaleidoscope of flavours that distinguish this whisky. The immersion on the palate is rich and layered, reflecting a depth of sweetness that contrasts with Bowmore’s signature peat and sea-salt notes. The texture is equally rich and mouth warming, leaving peat-drying and salt notes on the lips along with a long-lasting finish, while a cask strength ABV of 53.7 percent adds further lustre.
The whisky is a true reflection of the impact of time blended with the peaty, saline influence of Islay. It cannot be hurried or manipulated. As Calum Fraser, Bowmore’s Master Blender, says: “The Bowmore Timeless Series captures the essence of time beautifully. We purposefully strive for more character by protecting the precise processes used to ensure that we bring bold flavours to the front. The 29-Year-Old is testament to the fact that our spirit keeps delivering breadth and depth of flavour as it matures.”
As for the nose, and the three minutes allotted to appreciating its complexity, the 29-Year-Old hints at Muscovado sugar, cocoa, and a touch of bitter orange marmalade, with wafts of Christmas spice, maraschino cherries, and delicate citrus fruits. But really, three minutes just isn’t long enough.
The Bowmore Timeless 29-Year-Old is available from Master of Malt and The Whisky Exchange, £1,890.
Please savour Bowmore responsibly and always follow the Drink Aware rules.
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