During seasons away from the traditional runway format, designers often note that they use the time to reflect on their brands – what’s important, what’s working, what doesn’t, etc. For Amy Smilovic, stepping away from the runway format meant focusing on Tibi’s past, present and future. Her conclusion: that her fall collection would best be seen through an immersive presentation. The result was an archival cum new collection cum art gallery cum grab-and-go Tibi merchandise market all wrapped into one digestible presentation held at the brand’s Soho store.
The beauty of Smilovic’s designs are their digestibility; season after season, the designer is able to offer silhouettes with just enough special details that women not only want to, but do, wear. Fall was no different.
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“The idea is pushing things out further from the sculptural point of view or using interesting shapes and details at the shoulder,” Smilovic explained. “But then doing things too that can be manipulated and updated depending on who’s wearing it.”
A gray suit blazer had lapel buttons that could be criss-crossed for a twisted effect and industrial straps on sleeves for cinching, grounded with matching culotte shorts and flat, knee-high leather boots. There were loads of really good boots (among other footwear styles, including a collaboration with Clark’s) — from lug sole and chunky to square-toed and sleek.
Travel too inspired the fall season (hence the mini stop-and-go mini market within her presentation). Smilovic topped the easily packable, sophisticated looks with chic travel pillows (one was even encrusted in pearls!), while a trip up to Port Chester, N.Y., provided the locale for the brand’s photo and video lookbook. The designer wanted to communicate the idea that aspiration is a mind-set — your perfect trip can be in your own backyard, not just a far-flung location (often seen on Instagram). “You can live your life every day, you don’t have to wait for these moments,” she said.
Interesting knits, a variety of leather layers, unfussy occasion dresses and plenty of modern suiting offered options for the Tibi woman, wherever her journey might take her.
Launch Gallery: Tibi RTW Fall 2020