Those Dry Clean Only Items That You've Been Neglecting? Here's How to Take Care of Them At Home

From Town & Country

Whether you've been in self-isolation and can't send your beloved "dry clean only" items out to the cleaner, or if you simply want a more DIY way to maintain your belongings so that you can wear them for years to come, it's tricky to know where to start when it comes to taking care of those special care items at home. (We've all accidentally shrunk a cashmere or wool sweater. It's not ideal.)

There are ways that you can properly and effectively clean those items, though, whether it's suits, silk blouses, dresses—even your knitwear—that doesn't require taking them to the cleaner. We sat down with Lindsey Boyd and Gwen Whiting from New York City's The Laundress, for all of the tips, tricks, and secrets for how to take care of your dry clean items at home—and feel very chic doing it.

What is dry cleaning?

Simply put: The dry cleaning process cleans clothes with chemical solvents instead of water and detergent. One of the most common dry-cleaning chemicals is tetrachloroethylene or perchloroethylene (also known as “perc”).

So, what's the alternative at home?

It's important to remember that if you're doing it at home, it's not going to be dry cleaning, per se. You're going to have to hand wash. But, as a rule, hand-washing is always the gentlest way to wash and preserve your delicate items or items considered “dry clean” such as silk, some synthetics, lace, wool, cashmere, and other knits. Some other items that should ideally be treated by hand (and not in the washer and dryer) if you're maintaining them at home are embellished items, bathing suits, bras, and delicate underwear.

The explanation is simple: "[Hand-washing] increases the longevity of textiles by preserving fibers and detailing. In a washing machine, delicate fabrics can snag inside the drum and disrupt the fibers or detailing, and using a water temperature that’s too warm or a spin cycle that’s too aggressive can also disrupt delicate fabrics," says Whiting.

However if you find yourself in a pinch with certain delicates, there are some workarounds, to make using the washing machine a little more safe. First, use the right detergent (preferably plant-based and made for delicates, or if you're washing a sweater, wool & cashmere shampoo) and cool water. Another added safety precaution is putting said delicates in a mesh bag to prevent snagging during the wash cycle.

What do you need to hand wash "dry clean only" items at home?

For starters, a basin, a sink, or a tub. (Just be sure the vessel has been cleaned before you wash your clothes in it.)

Next, you'll need detergent and water. The type of detergent you use is largely dependent on the item you are washing; while everyday items made of cotton, linen, and durable synthetics can be washed in a regular detergent (such as the Laundress' Signature Formulation), wool and cashmere require fabric-specific detergent that is pH neutral and made for washing those fibers specifically. Some other additions to your set up might be a stain solution and a stain brush, if you have spots that you would like to treat.

Sort your clothes based on fabrics, with silks, delicates, and synthetics in one pile, wools and cashmeres in another, and special items like leathers and suits separated out as well.

Silks and Delicates

Boyd tells us that the process for silks is to first pretreat stains, such as dye, wine, coffee, or grass, with a stain treatment. "Work the stain-remover into the affected area with your finger or a Stain Brush, then soak the item in cool water for up to 30 minutes."

Then, proceed to wash. If you are washing by hand, fill up your sink, basin, or tub with cool water and add two capfuls of delicate wash. Then, mix the detergent into the water, add your items, submerge, and agitate the mixture with your hands to distribute the soap evenly around the clothing. Let those items sit in the soapy mixture for around 30 minutes and then drain the wash water. Once that is done, run cool water through items until the rinse water is no longer sudsy. But Whiting warns, "Be careful not to wring the fabrics! Instead, softly press the water out of your item between your hands or against the sink."

If you are going to wash silks and delicates in the washing machine, Boyd advises turning items inside out before putting them in a mesh bag (again, to prevent snagging). Select the delicate cycle on your washing machine, and make sure the water temperature is cold and the spin is on low before you add detergent made for delicates. Another pro tip: "We highly recommend removing silks promptly from the washing machine to reduce the risk of wrinkling."

Wool & Cashmere Care

When it comes to wools and cashmere, Whiting explains, that you can follow the same steps as above, but use a detergent that is made specifically for that purpose. You want to make sure that it is pH neutral, because it's more gentle on woolen fibers like cashmere, merino, mohair, and even blends. However, this will still thoroughly clean, removing odor, dirt, and oil, while preserving your sweaters’ soft and supple feel and natural lanolin.

Suede and Leather Care

While suede is not something that the Laundress ladies recommend doing a thorough cleaning of at home, there are some workarounds. For example, if needed, you can steam your suede clothes to remove wrinkles, freshen, and eliminate bacteria. But remember, you absolutely cannot iron suede, as ironing will crush or flatten the nap. For added fresh scent, spritz a fabric freshener, such as Fabric Fresh Classic, for a clean laundry scent and is made with ingredients that have antibacterial properties.

Leather follows along the same long: if a leather item is labeled “not washable” or “dry clean only” don’t wash it at home. However, if a leather item is labeled washable, or is a non-leather item with leather trim, whether that be patches, collars, zip pulls, and binding, you can test them by doing a spot test on an inconspicuous area. To spot test, wet a clean, white, lint-free cloth and blot the item.

Look for discoloration, spots, or other changes once the area has dried. If these appear, do not wash it. If the item passes the test, you can proceed by turning it inside out and placing it into a mesh washing bag. Set your machine to the delicates cycle and make sure the water temperature is cold and the spin to low, and to wash with a detergent for delicates.

Or if you prefer to hand wash, fill a basin, sink, or tub with cool or cold water, add delicate wash and the item, swirl mixture with hands, then allow to soak for 30 minutes before rinsing and pressing water out with hands. Boyd reminds, "Don't wring!"

Lay the item item in its natural shape on a drying rack or hang to dry. Be sure to position the item properly on a hanger to prevent stretching. Do not put in the dryer!

And to make sure you give your leather clothes that you washed the ultimate finish, steam to remove wrinkles and freshen between washes with a delicate spray.

How to Take Care of Suits

According to the duo, it's not advisable to wash suits and blazers at home, but you can freshen them with a few key moves.

First, spot treat the inside lining to remove underarm odor. "Wet our Wash & Stain Bar and gently work a lather into the affected areas. Wipe away suds with a damp cloth like our Lint-Free Cleaning Cloth," says Whiting. But beware, don't use paper towels to blot—they will leave behind lint. Then, spritz a wool or cashmere freshening spray on the inside lining of suits and jackets to neutralize any odor and further freshen.

Some other tricks are to hang suits outside (with care to be out of direct sunlight) so the fabric can breathe. Or, you could steam the pieces of your suits to help reduce any odor caused by germs and bacteria.

Tip: for added scent pour one capful of ironing water, like The Laundress', into the steamer tank.

Dress Shirts

When it comes to dress shirts, it's best to start by pre-treating staining around necklines and cuffs. Then, run under warm water and work into affected areas. To address any pit stains, apply stain solution and then The Laundress' All Purpose Bleach Alternative on top to create a paste."Work the solution in using your Stain Brush. If the stain is particularly stubborn, soak the shirt in a bath of warm water and a capful of All-Purpose Bleach Alternative for 30 minutes," says Boyd.

Next, turn the shirt inside out and place into a mesh washing bag to protect buttons from snagging or breaking in the washing machine. Select the normal cycle on your machine and set the water temperature to warm. Add detergent according to machine type and load size and of course, wash with like colors only!

Once the wash cycle is complete, hang your shirts to dry, being careful to position the garment properly on a hanger to prevent stretching. Achieve a crisp, clean finish, iron shirt while it's damp, if possible, and spritz the item with Stiffen Up spray or a starch spray.

Wool and Down Coats

When it comes to bulkier items like wool and down coats, it's definitely easier to wash them in a machine, but a bathtub works too.

When washing a wool or a down coat, first use a stain solution to treat any marks. If you have any strong odors that you would like to remove, such as smoke, body oils, or mildew, Whiting suggests soaking the coat in a 1/4 cup of scented vinegar and cold water for 30 minutes.

Once this has been done, place any detachable pieces that need to be washed (like faux fur lining and hoods) inside a mesh washing bag for protection against any damage. Then, turn your coat inside out and place it in the washing machine drum. Ideally, your machine has a woolens and delicate cycle, and in this instance that is what you should choose along with wool and cashmere safe detergent.

If you choose to hand wash your coats instead, fill the tub with cool water, your coat, and the wool and cashmere shampoo, agitating the water with hands—and then let the item sit for up to 30 minutes.

If your coat is down or fiber filled, Boyd advises drying it on a low heat and tumble cycle, which can be repeated until all of the moisture is gone. You can even add dryer balls for added fluff. About half way through the drying cycle, remove the item and give it a good shake to redistribute feathers or fill, moving them around so there are no remaining clumps before you place it back in the dryer. Pro Tip: Large down coats should be fully dried to prevent mildew. If the filling still clumps together that means excess water is present.

Wool coats, on the other hand, should be air dried.

Miscellaneous Tips

One last tip for seasonal items that you might be putting away? Whiting reminds, "Launder your clothing with the appropriate detergent to prevent perfume, body products, body oil, food, and dirt from showing up later, which are much harder to get out. This also is true for starch. Do not store items that are starched." Why? Because all of the above are a feeding ground for bugs.

You can also keep your clothing fresh while laundering less frequently by using a steamer on high heat. Boyd says, "Steam works to eliminate odor-causing bacteria and release wrinkles. If you don’t own a steamer, then set an iron to the “steam” setting and hovering it over the item. Be sure you’re not making direct contact with the item, as pressing down on certain fabrics, like wool, can crush or damage the fibers.

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