The $6 Massage That’s Better Than a $150 One

Writer Kathryn Romeyn got the ultimate massage experience in Bali. (Photo: Getty)

If you’ve ever been the fortunate recipient of a pricey massage at a top-notch spa, you know the joys of the experience: plush robes and slippers, fruit-infused water, candles, relaxing music, and, of course, the massage itself. In the hands of expert, your muscles are rubbed, kneaded, prodded and smoothed. While it is pretty fantastic, I recently found out that a massage can get even better. In Bali’s surf towns, you’ll find the ultimate massage and it only costs $6.

If you’re used to the plush spa experience, note that this is entirely different. For starters, there are no robes, although it’s way too hot anyway. Privacy is also probably not happening. Whether you turn up with a significant other, travel companion or best friend, don’t be surprised if you end up in a couples massage room, on side-by-side tables. As for ambiance, it’s typically delivered via the whir of a fan, some unfamiliar local music, the giggling and chatting of masseuses, or even roosters crowing. Expect the scent of incense, an important part of the Hindus’ Canang Sari daily offerings. This may not be the most relaxing setting ever, but it doesn’t matter.

To begin, a friendly, Balinese woman will show you behind a curtain where you’ll disrobe. Unlike luxe spas, there are no white cotton sheets to tuck into; instead you’ll lay your probably sticky self, facedown on the fabric-covered table, and cover up with a lightweight sarong. You’ll know the session has started when you hear the creak of the table and feel the therapist climb up and perch over you.

Most massages start the same way here: With the therapist throwing all her body weight into her hands, pressing down and away on opposing body parts, through the sarong — right shoulder and left buttock, then the other side, down the legs, up the back. The effect is disarming, and forces you release tension and apprehension. Next, she’ll slather on a thick layer of oily lotion (or in the case of a sunburn, fresh aloe) and work from the very top to the very tip of your spine, on either side. For those who have had Swedish or Thai massages before, a Balinese massage feels like a hybrid of both.

In America there seems to be an understood rule that the butt is off limits. Not in Bali. And take it from someone who knows, the glutes are the best part of the whole thing, especially after climbing 200 steps down and then up from the beach, or climbing a volcano. A standard massage includes the buttocks, and sometimes the breasts — but you’re free to opt out of either. To finish the experience, you’ll receive an intense facial and scalp massage, a little wake-up call that at least prepares your mind for moving from your zen state.

A final tip: if you are masochistic type who prefers deep tissue rubdowns, you need to ask for “more strong.” Just beware, your masseuse may take it as a challenge to knead your muscles to a complete pulp.

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