Is Talc in Makeup Bad for You? A Cosmetic Chemist Gives It to Us Straight

A cosmetic chemist and dermatologist weigh in.

Medically reviewed by Dendy Engelman, MD, FACMS, FAADFact checked by Michelle Regalado

With the formulas we apply to our skin, we all seek products that—while beneficial to our beauty needs—are healthy, not harmful. However, navigating what's what is not as simple as it sounds. We've been warned of the potential dangers of parabens and phthalates, but there are tons of other ingredients in beauty products we apply to our faces every day.

One ingredient that has been called into question is talc due to its possible ties with cancer and concerns over whether its presence in cosmetics could make people sick. So, we decided to investigate and see what beauty industry veteran Victor Casale and board-certified dermatologist Dr. Purvisha Patel have to say about the ingredient.

Meet Our Expert

• Victor Casale is the co-founder and former chief chemist of Cover FX. He is now the co-founder and CEO of MOB Beauty.

• Dr. Purvisha Patel is a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Visha Skincare.

Understanding Makeup and Ingredient Safety

Before even deep diving into whether talc is harmful in cosmetics, Casale wanted to set a few things straight about makeup and safety. One of the biggest misconceptions surrounds the idea of natural products. "When you use the word 'natural,' it's all relative and subjective," notes Casale. "I like to say that we should be talking about the degrees of naturalness."

Even so, as a chemist, Casale understands that even natural products can be harmful to the skin and health, while synthetics can be more effective and much safer. "People care about the naturalness of their makeup, but most of the medications they take are synthetic."

So, instead of prioritizing natural ingredients, Casale considers each ingredient's actual effects on the skin and body to rank the safety of its use. "At Cover FX, what I do is look at the ingredients—I don't look at the degrees of naturalness," explains Casale. "I look for safety, toxicity, odor, effectiveness, stability, and sustainability of the sources." He underscores that the goal is to produce quality products that are safe for people. "It's a balance of using science, nature, and what technology is available."

What Is Talc?

Talc is a natural mineral—the softest mineral on record—and is used in everything from paints to textiles to drugs to, you guessed it, cosmetics. "But in cosmetics, specifically, we look for suppliers that mine it in its purest form," explains Casale. The naturally occurring mineral is extracted from open-pit mines in the U.S. and worldwide. "It's milled down very easily and used as an expender in our repertoire." In other words, it's a dilutant that's paired with pigment for the desired effect. "If you take some of that pigment and put it on your hand, it's intense. You have to dilute it. You can't sell it that concentrated. Talc is the dilutant."

Dr. Purvisha Patel explains, "Talc is very water absorbent and has been used for centuries to help the skin in areas of moisture and to help prevent skin breakdown and inflammation." The powder is also well-known for absorbing oil and reducing shine.

Casale, who also co-founded MAC, has been using talc since he started in the industry. "Thirty years ago, that's what everybody used," he says. When he was formulating MAC's Studio Fix Powder Foundation ($42), still one of its best sellers, Casale used talc. "The problem with talc, as I learn more and more and have more experience with it, is that if you put talc on your hand by itself and rub it in, it never really disappears. You have a white, chalky stain on your hand." When Casale first started in the cosmetics industry, "people liked that dry powder look," he recalls. "Today it's natural glow—they want it to look natural, they don't want it to look covered up. You want your beauty to come through your makeup."

So when Casale reformulated everything in the Cover FX line five years ago, "I put my foot down and said we're not using talc. It's too chalky." Instead, Casale opted for ultra-fine mica. The mineral is similar to talc but is used to create the frost in your lipstick or eye shadow. When you break down mica, it breaks down flat—like a mirror—so, depending on the particle size, you can go from club glitter to frosty to illuminating to just glowy. "When you rub mica into your skin pure, it disappears," describes Casale. "So now, when I'm formulating, I can dilute the color, but it won't create a chalky finish on your skin. My decision [to ditch talc] wasn't made for safety concerns—that came later."

Mica

Mica is a naturally occurring mineral that, when ground, produces mica powder. The powder gives off a pearly, sparkly sheen, which is why it's a popular ingredient in many highlighters and eyeshadows.

Is Talc Safe?

Talc started becoming controversial when Johnson & Johnson was ordered to pay $72 million in damages to the family of a woman who died from ovarian cancer after 35 years of using talcum powder for feminine hygiene. More cases are looming, yet there's no definitive answer as to whether talc can be harmful in cosmetics, and most brands continue to use the mineral to this day. According to the American Cancer Society, while talc is a danger for talc miners or other workers who come in contact with natural, asbestos-contaminated talc fibers, it has not been established as a concern for cosmetics.

The Drawbacks of Talc

Dr. Patel says most skin types can tolerate talc; however, those with sensitive skin can see some irritation when used in specific areas on their faces. "Those that may have irritation when it is used in the folds of skin are people who tend to have sensitive skin reactions and hive easily. The rubbing of the particles may cause increased irritation to them." He says that the primary health issue when using talc is what happens when the powder is inhaled. "The concern with cosmetic talc in makeup and hygiene products is when it is inhaled, as it might cause respiratory problems and lung disease. It can also irritate the eyes."

The Final Takeaway

Talc is found in many products, from crayons to cosmetics. In terms of the latter, the ingredient has historically been used to help absorb excess oil on the skin. However, in recent years, brands (like Cover FX) have ditched talc-based formulas as they often leave behind a chalky finish and can irritate the skin. Additionally, talc's safety has been questioned, with some initial research noting that the mineral may often be contaminated with the carcinogen asbestos. While more research must be done on the impact of talc in cosmetics, it's worth keeping the information about talc in mind as you shop for beauty products.

Up Next: The 11 Best Face Powders Without Talc of 2023

Read the original article on Byrdie.