T&C; Travel Guide: New Orleans, Louisiana
WHERE TO EAT
Classic
The New Orleans institution celebrates its 175th anniversary this year. Helmed by fifth-generation CEO Rick Blount, it's the country's oldest family-run restaurant. When at Antoine's, always start with a Sazerac at the Hermes Bar. Then, after taking your seat in one of the restaurant's 14 dining rooms, indulge in Oysters Rockefeller (it was invented here in 1840) and other French Creole culinary delights like Oysters Foch and Eggs Sardou. No meal is complete without at least one bottle of wine (below the dining room, the 165-foot-long by seven-foot-wide wine cellar houses approximately 25,000 bottles). Top off your unforgettable meal with a Baked Alaska and another invented-at-Antoine's tradition: Cafe Brulot Diabolique, a flaming coffee with brandy. 713 Saint Louis Street. —Sarah Bray
The iconic eatery has been serving creole-meets-Southern cooking classics since 1946. This year, the French quarter favorite got a spectacular decor refresh by interior designer Richard Keith Langham and architect John C. Williams. In honor of its new look, owners Terry White and Ralph Brennan brought back a beloved tradition: A procession of turtles that live in the restaurant's courtyard fountain and parade on tiny floats every Mardi Gras. After closing out your meal by Chef Slade Rushing with their famous bananas foster, walk upstairs and see the private dining rooms dedicated to the history of the Mardi Gras carnival queens with bejeweled memorabilia on loan from the Rex organization. 417 Royal Street. —Sarah Bray
This Garden District staple has been open since 1880 and its "haute Creole" cuisine is beautifully presented in array of pastel dining rooms surrounding a lush courtyard garden that feel straight out of the 1960s. Start with the restaurant's signature turtle soup, which is topped with sherry made with, yes, alligator snapping turtles. And don't forget that during weekday lunches, martinis are only 25 cents with the purchase of an entree. 1403 Washington Avenue. —Emily Selter
Tucked inside a quiet 19th century courtyard in the French Quarter, this romantic cafe is the perfect place to go if you need a break from heavy Creole fare. The restaurant serves light dishes with a creole twist inside a flowering garden and under tall trees strung with lights. 912 Royal Street. —Emily Selter
Casual
It's the bow-tied cooks flipping burgers and mixing milkshakes behind the bar who make Camellia Grille an institution since its opening in 1946. The cooks are known to dish up a juicy story (or two!) or sing Ray Charles a cappella along with your chili cheese fries. Located right off of the trolley in the Carrolton Historic District, the diner doesn't take reservations but is open until 2 am on weekends. 626 S Carrollton Ave.—Sarah Bray
From the exterior Coop's looks like a dive bar that has seen better days, but the restaurant serves some of the best Cajun food in the city. The restaurant is known for its red beans and rice with andouille sausage and rabbit jambalaya, but the fried chicken is great too. 1109 Decatur Street. —Emily Selter
An offshoot of Cochon Restaurant, this butcher and sandwich shop looks like it belongs in Brooklyn but is definitely at home in New Orleans, as evidenced by their mouthwatering take on the muffaletta. If you have a kitchen, make sure to stock up on their fresh sausage and meat. 930 Tchoupitoulas Street. —Emily Selter
The New Orleans equivalent of Katz's Delicatessen in New York City, Mother's is a no-frills joint where customers line up for po' boys and pecan pie. Try the signature Famous Ferdi Special, made with baked ham, roast beef, debris, and gravy ("debris" being the roast beef the falls into the au jus gravy while it's baking in the oven). 401 Poydras Street. —Sam Dangremond
Buzzy
New Orleans hasn't been known for Israeli cuisine, but it certainly should be after Alon Shaya opened his namesake restaurant in partnership with Chef John Besh earlier this year. Shaya, whose chef won the 2015 James Beard Award for Best Chef: South, has been named one of the best new restaurants in the country by Bon Appétit, Eater, and Southern Living. It's arguably the toughest reservation to get in the city today. Standout dishes are the avocado toast, served with smoked whitefish and pink peppercorns on rye bread, and the hummus with soft cooked egg or lamb ragu. If you go, prepare to be wowed. 4213 Magazine Street. —Sam Dangremond
Sweet
This bright café serves an array of fresh pastries straight out of the oven including croissants and brioche, which are perfect for breakfast. The penny tiled floors and outdoor courtyard are icing on the cake. 617 Ursulines Avenue. —Emily Selter
Café du Monde serves two items: beignets and chicory coffee. Both are worth the hype, and the original location is open 24 hours a day. Skip the crowds by stopping by late at night or early in the morning. 800 Decatur Street. —Emily Selter
A sophisticated sweets shop selling pastries, creative ice cream sundaes, and macarons in New Orleans-inspired flavors like PB&J, Chicory, and Southern Pecan, Sucre is definitely worth a visit. 622 Conti Street. —Emily Selter
Many stores in New Orleans claim to sell the best pralines in the city, but visit Southern Candymakers for the real standouts. Their fudge and caramel apples don't disappoint either. 334 Decatur Street. —Emily Selter
WHERE TO DRINK
This bar is attached to the storied Arnaud's restaurant and specializes in classic cocktails. Its wood-paneled walls and animal print chairs are a chic alternative to the dive bars around the corner on Bourbon Street. 813 Bienville Street. —Emily Selter
The main attraction at this bar inside the Hotel Monteleone is the bar itself, a refurbished carousel installed in 1949 that seats 25 people. And lest you think it was that extra Sazerac that's making the room spin, let us set the record straight—the bar itself actually spins just like a carousel (albeit a bit more slowly). 214 Royal Street. —Emily Selter
Order the namesake drink, the official cocktail of New Orleans, at this bar in the historic Roosevelt Hotel. The whiskey, bitters, and absinthe-based offering has been called America's first cocktail; although Esquire's David Wondrich disputes that claim, he still calls it a "connoisseur's choice." The bartenders also make a mean Ramos Gin Fizz. 130 Roosevelt Way. —Sam Dangremond
Tiki expert Jeff "Beachbum" Barry opened this French Quarter watering hole in 2014 as a tribute to his favorite style of drinks. Berry, who literally wrote the book on tiki cocktails and consulted on a line of tiki barware, conducted extensive research to uncover recipes that had previously been lost. Try a traditional recipe like a Mai Tai or a Zombie, or opt for one of Berry's new concoctions such as the Pontchartrain Pearl Diver (an "iced buttered rum"). 321 North Peters Street. —Sam Dangremond
Sit outside in the courtyard and sip a Pimm's Cup at this NOLA institution, which opened in 1914, and you'll feel like you've stepped back to an earlier era. If you're hungry, chow down on a muffuletta. 500 Chartres Street. —Sam Dangremond
WHAT TO DO
This restored Antebellum mansion in the Garden District is open for tours by appointment, and is filled with the owner's eclectic collections of antiques, dollhouses and New Orleans memorabilia. 2220 Saint Charles Avenue. —Emily Selter
The oldest of the seven cemeteries in New Orleans, Lafayette No. 1 is open during the day so visitors can see its famous above-ground tombs. 1416 Washington Avenue. —Emily Selter
Located inside a pharmacy that dates to the early 19th century, this museum showcases popular vintage remedies and the foreboding tools of the trade. The marble soda fountain is a sight in itself, and fans of American Horror Story: Coven will recognize its charming courtyard as the spot where Madame LaLaurie was exhumed. 514 Chartres Street. —Emily Selter
Some of the most famous jazz bands in New Orleans have performed at this legendary Frenchmen Street music club. 623 Frenchmen Street. —Emily Selter
WHERE TO SHOP
Bambi Deville Vintage Clothing
The charming shop has a carefully curated selection of vintage clothing from the past century, and an antique store with cases of bakelite jewelry is in the same building. 818 Royal Street. —Emily Selter
A paper and pen shop specializing in the nearly lost art of writing, this store sells high quality fountain pens, quills, and inks along with an assortment of handmade papers and notebooks. 842 Royal Street. —Emily Selter
Textile artist Chris Roberts-Antieau has work hanging in the White House and counts Oprah among her many fans. She displays her whimsical and quirky folk art in this gallery space. 927 Royal Street. —Emily Selter
Founded by 26-year-old NOLA native Stirling Barrett, this modern optical shop is a prime example of the new guard of innovative creatives and entrepreneurs popping up post-Katrina. 809 Royal Street. —Sarah Bray
There are almost as many antique stores as bars in the French Quarter, but one shop is known internationally for its rare treasures with documented provenance. Located at the same address for over 100 years, M.S. Rau's 25,000-square-foot emporium deals silver, furniture, art, jewelry, and more. 630 Royal St. —Sarah Bray
Jane Scott Hodges is known throughout the South as the monogram and fine linen queen. Custom order her dreamy creations, which have a cult following that includes Alexa Hampton and Aerin Lauder, at her showroom near the Garden District. 3806 Magazine Street. —Sarah Bray
Stationer and illustrator Alexa Pulitzer is known for her whimsical paper products. Stop by her shop and peruse her cards and tablets penned with everything from flamingos to chandeliers. 1325 N Lopez St. —Sarah Bray
WHERE TO STAY
Open since 1886, this grand hotel's former guests include Ernest Hemingway and Tennessee Williams. Truman Capote was a regular at the famous Carousel Bar. 214 Royal Street. —Emily Selter
This small hotel is located on a quiet street on the edge of the French Quarter—close enough to walk to every landmark but far enough away from the sounds and smells of Bourbon Street. 1001 Toulouse Street. —Emily Selter
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