Switzerland's Most Beautiful Train Line, the Glacier Express, Has a New Luxury Car
There are at least two compelling ways to explore Switzerland’s majestic landscape, the frozen mountaintops and charming valley villages: on skis, or from a train seat, sitting still and sipping champagne as the scenery streams by. You’ll forgive us if one option sounds a bit more appealing than the other, especially on vacation.
The Glacier Express was already among the most beautiful rides in a country packed with many beautiful train itineraries. The line, which opened in 1930, journeys between St. Moritz/Davos and Zermatt over the course of eight hours, which is why the Swiss playfully deem it “the slowest express train in the world.” With oversized windows that curve up and into the train’s roof, a restaurant car, and fairy-tale views, the ride was already a pretty luxurious experience. But this spring, the line took it a step further, introducing a third type of ticket: Excellence Class.
What does a ticket to Excellence entail? A few weeks after its inauguration in March 2019, I hopped on in St. Moritz to try it out myself. The grandeur began right there in the train station, as the entrance to Excellence Class was offset on the platform with a little red carpet, and a welcome desk where an employee checked my ticket, then took my coat and bags. I was shown to a wide, creamy leather seat with my own iPad and a little table from which I could work - or rest my hands while I stared gobsmacked out the window. Teeny, nearly imperceptible choices in design helped smooth the ride, like the ability to press a button for more lumbar support, or the subtle grooves on the table that ensured the champagne coupe I was handed when I sat down wouldn’t slide away once we began rolling.
The iPad’s purpose wasn’t solely entertainment or an internet connection, as the free high-speed Wifi allowed me to stay connected with jealous friends back in New York. Instead, it lit up with an interactive map of our route, pointing out highlights such as the Landwasser Viaduct, the dramatically tall, curved bridge you’ve seen on postcards, and the Gotthard Tunnel, which is the longest railway tunnel in the world
Then came the meal, which stretched on for five courses over two and a half hours. Initial dishes this spring included a plate of amuse bouches followed by a fresh, bright trout salad; a standout was the pea soup dotted with edible flowers and poured from a porcelain tureen by a staffer wearing white gloves-miraculously, without spilling, as we curved along the century-old rail. Each dish was paired with Swiss wines, as the savory finale was a perfect filet mignon atop truffle mashed potatoes with a peppery Syrah.
In case that series of wine weren’t enough, the Excellence car has a bar situated at the head of the train. Following the wooden accents around the passenger area, its ceiling featured an elegant carved-wood compass that quietly rotated in real time to denote the actual direction of the train. Beneath, staffers mixed up Old Fashioneds or popped more champagne at passenger request.
Right after the steak was cleared away, and 4.5 hours into the journey, the train stopped for everyone (passengers on Excellence class and the other cars alike) to get off in a particularly scenic area near Andermatt to take photos amid the snowy peaks
The meal and all its pomp took such a fantastically languid pace that once the final array of tiny cakes and tartlets were gobbled, my blissed-out belly felt a jolt of panic when I realized there were only about two hours left of the trip. I needed to soak up those views! The tiny skiiers shooting past in the distance, the hints of emerald green already peeking through the early spring snow, the shock of rounding a corner and coming up yet another astounding vista of the jagged Alps! What I’m saying is, I didn’t want to get off the train. I didn’t want the ride to end.
A tea menu was distributed, from which I selected an alpine herb to enjoy the final moments. The sun had already dropped behind the mountains when we arrived in Zermatt, and I felt genuinely sad to step out of the car - even though it meant stepping onto another red carpet. Turns out it’s really fun to sit still for eight hours and take in the world.
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At about $688 per ticket, Excellence Class is a slow and expensive way to travel; you could drive between the towns of St. Moritz and Zermatt in about five hours, or ride further back on the Glacier Express in the 1st class car for $268 or 2nd class car for $152. Like all of the best Swiss travel experiences, though, it’s not really about speed or frugality but the intake of unparalleled beauty. The journey is once in a lifetime. Plus, that steak with truffle mashed potatoes is worth at least $75!
Where
The Glacier Express runs between St. Moritz/Davos and Zermatt, with stops in Chur, Andermatt, and Brig.
When to Ride
While the Glacier Express runs year-round, the Excellence Class in its first year is only operating between March and October. Check their website for the latest timetables.
How to Book
You may buy tickets through the Glacier Express website, or use a tour operator such as the U.S.-based Vacations By Rail. Their “Best of Switzerland” tour includes a ride on the Glacier Express, as well as rides through Lucerne, Lausanne, Montreux, Interlaken, and Zurich.
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