From Swanton to St. Johnsbury, ride along on the Lamoille Valley Rail Trail

Note: The following story was originally slated to publish the week of July 9, 2023, until massive flooding in Vermont caused an estimated $11 million worth of damage to the new, $31 million Lamoille Valley Rail Trail, and delayed its grand opening.

Vermont's newest rail trail, the 93-mile Lamoille Valley Rail Trail, was completed in May. In June, a team of Free Press reporters rode the entire length of the trail, each taking a section. Come along for the ride.

Swanton's Railroad Depot Museum to Sheldon - 12 miles: Enjoy a quiet and shaded ride through farms and forests.

I arrived at Swanton Historical Society, where the weather was a perfect 84 degrees with not a cloud in the sky. With my bike's chain freshly greased and tires perfectly pumped, I was ready to ride.I left my car in one of the six or so parking spots the Historical Society had to offer. The Historical Society has a Railroad Depot Museum. While the museum itself was not open, I briefly walked through the outdoor exhibitions. The Museum has various train parts and houses to peek in and around, perfect for any train enthusiast.

Also parked at the Historical Society was a fit older couple, their bikes ready, water bottles in hand, as they strategized their conquest of the trail. Little did I know that this would be my only encounter with other humans throughout the entirety of my ride. Before I even had the chance to mount my bike, they had already zoomed over the bridge and vanished into the distance.

Since it was a Thursday morning and my breakfast consisted of a meager egg and cheese from Dunkin, my plans were far less ambitious. To set the mood, I kicked off with the Fugees' rendition of "No Woman, No Cry" playing in my ears.

And so, I embarked on my solitary journey, playlist at the ready, squinting against the sun's rays. Pedaling for just under a mile, I crossed River Street and cruised over the Missisquoi River following ‘The Richard “Dick” Thompson Fit & Healthy Recreation Path’ until I reached the official starting point of the Lamoille Valley Rail Trail.

At this juncture on Robin Hood Drive, Santana's "Oye Como Va" began to hum in my ears. My feet effortlessly synchronized with the rhythm. Despite forgetting my sunglasses and sunscreen, I was somewhat safe from the sun, finding comfort in the shade that persisted for the majority of my ride. The trail nestled between two rows of trees for most of my journey to Sheldon.

Crossing Vermont 78, I switched back to Lauryn Hill and the Fugees. Along the way, I passed by serene farmlands, the occasional cemetery, and even encountered a friendly black cat. Per the feline's own request, I have refrained from including their photos.

After 30 minutes of riding, I was in desperate need to use the restroom. The scorching heat had driven me to consume water in quantities comparable to the flow of Niagara Falls. Unfortunately, there was not a portable toilet nor a more sophisticated plumbing system in sight. I'll spare you the details, but let's just say we've all found ourselves in such a predicament. Riders who wish to use a conventional bathroom should stop in town at Sheldon, or be prepared to wait until the end of this segment.

Although I did not come across any restaurants along the way, my ride left me unfazed by hunger. The 12-mile stretch from Swanton to Sheldon boasted a flat, peaceful, and shaded path. The trail was well-paved, suitable for almost any bike except for those sporting ultra-thin road bike tires. For most of the route, the trail followed Vermont 78, occasionally intersecting it. However, I never felt unsafe or bothered by crossing traffic.

A little more than an hour after my start, I reached the end of my ride at the MVRT Sheldon Junction Parking lot near the intersection of Vermont 78 and 105.

I would not highlight this stop as a beautiful picnic spot, as it neighbors an industrial-looking animal feed store. It is however a point where the Lamoille Valley Rail Trail converges with the Missisquoi Valley Rail Trail and riders could treat themselves to a creamy at the Green Mountain Café.

-Isabella Infante

Sheldon to Cambridge Junction - 19 miles: Cows, countryside and mountain views

Most of the Lamoille Valley Rail Trail is blissfully rural, but the nearly 19-mile stretch of trail from Sheldon to Jeffersonville is especially so.

My roommate and I did the ride together, driving up from Burlington in late morning to start the ride. Although the website indicates that the trailhead is near Town Park on Bridge Street in Sheldon, the park is not indicated on Google Maps so we got a little lost. The parking lot for the trail in Sheldon is easy to miss. Set your GPS to Sheldon Historical Society and park in the grassy space across the trail to the east from the historical society.

The ride begins amidst dairy farms and signs warning of tractor and cow crossings. We heard their moos before we saw them, coming upon a herd of Holsteins close to the trail in the first 20 minutes of the ride. One was vocal, mooing incessantly as we rode away, leaving us wondering whether it was happy or sad to see us go.

About halfway through the section, the trail goes through East Fairfield, the only civilization we encountered besides the beginning and end points. We made a quick bathroom stop at Irving Oil which was just off the trail to the right as we entered East Fairfield.

If you’re a birder, the Sheldon to Cambridge Junction section may be extra fun. While there are some shaded parts of the trail, most of it is exposed to the elements with some sparse lines of trees and shrubs between the trail and the fields. Birds swoop across the trail often, using the few trees present for shelter. Besides small songbirds, we also spotted goslings being shepherded along a drainage ditch, turtles sunbathing on logs in a small pond and a baby chipmunk scampering across the path.

We could see the Green Mountains from the start of the ride in the distance, but by the end, we were entering them, Mt. Mansfield looming in front of us. The trail crossed the Lamoille River right before going through Jeffersonville, where the Cambridge Junction trailhead features plentiful parking spaces and a tire pump.

We stopped at Burger Barn in Jeffersonville after we finished our ride, savoring their funky flavored burgers and a pint of fries under blue skies.

-Lilly St. Angelo

Cambridge Junction to Hyde Park -13 miles: Ride along a winding river and through cornfields, find splashes of color.

The weather forecast wasn’t in my favor, but once I dug up my padded bike shorts that make me feel like an estranged cousin of the Kardashian clan, I was determined to complete the ride rain or shine. I drove through sunny blue skies, thunder-storms and sweet humid drizzles, which politely stopped when I arrived at the trailhead.

The Cambridge Junction trailhead is right next to the Cambridge Junction Covered bridge, built in 1887 over the Lamoille River. The bridge is a historical site, one of over 100 covered bridges Vermont boasts – a tourist destination in and of itself for you covered-bridge fanatics.

With ample parking, the trailhead features an adorable play structure with a miniature train, picnic tables built to resemble a train car, a portable toilet, and a bike repair station I would soon regret not using to raise my bike seat.

For some reason, riding a bike makes me want to listen to The Chicks, so I put my earbuds in, hit shuffle on their discography, and set off. I highly recommend the pairing.

The first section of the trail was beautiful. It crossed over the winding Lamoille River, ran through thick brushy sections where dappled sunlight seeped through, and opened up to acres of corn fields – talk about wide-open spaces. I imagine as the corn grows tall throughout the summer, biking through here might feel like entering a secret world.

The first and only busy road crossing of this section happens about three miles past Cambridge Junction. Shortly thereafter, there’s a big, old antique barn that gave me the perfect excuse to stop, catch my breath, and take some pictures.

This section is rural. Though the weather kindly let up for me, storm clouds were still looming overhead, so I kept a lookout for places where I might seek shelter in the event of lightning. I think assuming "lightning position" trailside might be your best bet. I was glad I brought granola bars; there aren’t any stops for food on this section, unless you want to make the half mile journey off the trail to downtown Johnson.

There were dozens of black and white butterflies, which I believe to be white admirals. They gathered in clusters on the sides of the trail and dispersed as my tires rolled past them.

As you near the Johnson trailhead, there’s a mural on the side of the trail titled “Humans of Johnson” by artist Finn Watsula, commissioned by the town of Johnson’s Beautification Committee. Then there’s a nice cow painted on the side of a blue building, which is fitting because much of the ride smells like cows – in a good way.

My thighs were burning when I reached Johnson, my bike seat ridiculously low. I imagine I resembled the young Buddy the Elf coming to terms with his humanness on an elf-sized tricycle. Conveniently, there was a bike repair station with a myriad of Allen wrenches. I raised my seat, filled up my water bottle, queued “Traveling Soldier” and kept going.

Dog Head Falls access is right off the trail. I ditched my bike near the bench and walked down the short footpath that led to the rocks beside the cascading waterfall. This would be a great destination from the trail, about 2 miles from Johnson and maybe 8 from Cambridge Junction. You could bring snacks and a book and sunbathe for a bit to reward yourself for getting in a decent workout.

I needed Natalie Maines’ ex-husband-bashing-anger on “Gaslighter” to keep me going for the last few miles. There was a lovely bridge I had to stop and stand on, signs that read “Knot in Hyde Park” warning against disturbing the invasive Japanese Knotweed while the eradication project is underway, and more glorious river views.

I reached Hyde Park weary and sore, greeted by a colorful art installation. There is no water at the Hyde Park trailhead – plan accordingly – but there is a portable toilet, parking, and a Little Free Library, in case you need a memento from your ride.

- Kate Sadoff

Hyde Park to Wolcott - 11 miles: Across bridges, through downtown Morrisville, and along the Lamoille River

The Hyde Park to Walcott section of the Lamoille Valley Rail Trail runs for 10.6 miles, passing through both town amenities and peaceful woods.

The section starts with a trailhead at 43 Mill St. in Hyde Park, marked by a large sculpture with painted glass murals. The trailhead has ample parking spaces, a trail map, and even a portable toilet.

From there, the trail launches immediately into lush woods. A couple of small abandoned buildings that look like old park offices can be found on the side of the trail early on.

Par for the course for rail trails, the whole section is mostly flat, save for a notable hill early on. Watch out, this hilly part is also unfortunately one of the only parts of the trail where the gravel is uneven. Hold on to the brakes for this part.

Thankfully the hill is short-lived and the trail soon reaches a magnificent wooden bridge with colorful paintings and prime views of the Lamoille River.

The bridge soon leads to downtown Morrisville, where hungry bicyclists can stop for a bite to eat at the Morrisville Food Co-Op, 10 Railroad Street restaurant, or Thompson's Flour Shop bakery. Morrisville also boasts a bike shop, Chuck's Bikes, located just steps from the rail trail. Back on the rail trail, don't miss some truly spectacular birdhouse sculptures right next to the Morrisville trailhead map.

Tired of towns? Want to get away from all those pesky people making noise and smelling bad? Good thing you're on a rail trail in Vermont. Nature abounds.

After Morrisville, the trail reaches a gorgeous, long stretch that runs right next to the Lamoille River. Don't miss the pretty flowers that can be found along the sides of the trail. This section runs for a while, just parallel to Vermont 15, but mostly out of sight and sound from cars.

Eventually the trail crosses Elmore Pond Brook, which connects the Lamoille River to Lake Elmore several miles south. For those who want to visit (and maybe even camp out) at Lake Elmore and Elmore State Park, the rail trail intersects with Corley Road in Wolcott. This intersection is just a three mile bike ride down to the lake.

If you take Corley Road in the opposite direction to Vermont 15 and ride a mile, you can reach Slice of Earth Farmstand for fresh fruit, vegetables, pies, and more.

But enough for these divergences. Ride three more miles and you will reach our destination, the storied town of Wolcott.

-April Fisher

A Wolcott to West Danville - 26 miles: National historic landmark at one end, Joe's Pond at the other, with lots of great riding in between

Woods and water.

There were plenty of both on my section of the Lamoille Valley Rail Trail, beginning in Wolcott at the town offices and ending 26.3 miles later at the Park and Ride in West Danville on U.S. 2W near Joe’s Pond.

The ride overall imparts a sense of splendid isolation that my wife and I always enjoy when on our bikes. For long stretches you’re traveling through green tunnels of trees on the hard-packed gravel surface of the trail, with occasional glimpses through the leafy walls around you to mountains and fields beyond. On other stretches you’ll parallel the Lamoille River, accompanied at times by the soothing sound of its rushing waters.

The work that went into laying down the surface of the Lamoille Valley Rail Trail is impressive, with a subsurface of larger rock-sized gravel providing a base for the fine gravel on top that forms the riding surface. Having ridden many rail trails in many parts of the country, I can say this is one of the best riding surfaces we’ve seen. One thing to keep in mind, though, is to avoid drifting to the very edge of the trail, where the gravel can be loose enough to grab your wheel and possibly bring you down.

A few miles into the ride from the parking area at the Wolcott town office, you’ll ride through the Fisher Covered Railroad Bridge crossing the Lamoille River, a highlight of this section of the trail. Built in 1908, Fisher Bridge was the last covered bridge in America carrying railroad traffic when it was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1974.

Make sure you ride slowly across the 103.5-foot length of the restored bridge so you can take in the original double Town Lattice structure, a remarkable display of craftsmanship featuring wooden pegs holding together the lattice-work of lumber. The railroad tracks are gone, of course, replaced with a smooth surface of railroad ties. Fisher Bridge also features a full-length cupola that was designed to carry away the smoke of steam engines, adding to its unique beauty.

As are most rail trails, the Wolcott to West Danville section of the Lamoille Valley Rail Trail is just about dead flat, with a total elevation gain of only around 100 feet. That’s one of the appealing aspects of rail trails. You will be riding slightly uphill on some stretches and slightly downhill on other stretches, and you’ll immediately notice the difference.

The only food we saw close to the trail was in Hardwick at Caja Taqueria, which promises “authentic street tacos” and Mexican food. Otherwise, you’re on your own so it would be a good idea to bring along peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, or something else that travels well and delivers plenty of protein.

At the end of this section of the trail, you’ll glide past Joe’s Pond, a perfect spot to sit and relax for a few minutes before loading up your bikes for the drive home, with a marathon-length ride under your belt.

-Dan D'Ambrosio

West Danville to St. Johnsbury - 14 miles: Through woods, tunnels and to a historic railroad station

The final leg on the Lamoille Valley Rail Trail (or beginning depending upon where you start) takes cyclists down winding paths through forested areas that feel secluded from the towns of West Danville, Danville and St. Johnsbury through which it passes. In some cases, the rock face flanking the sides of the trail rises dozens of feet, evidence the hills were cut through to create a pass for the railroad. In other instances, just outside the shoulder area, the sides slope down to the forest floor many feet below.

While it can become easy to forget that civilization lies just outside view, the 14.1 mile section generally tracks U.S. 2, and there are 13 crossings with another road. The vast majority of intersections provided no vehicle sightings during a ride on June 11, and fun-size stop signs cautioned cyclists to possible encounters. A favorite was passing over Penny Lane − twice. My “two cents” is that you should be prepared to hum Beatles tunes for part of the journey.

There are a couple times when it is necessary to cross the multiple lane and busy U.S. 2. The visibility was good for seeing approaching vehicles in the distance.

Among the surprises and perhaps most interesting parts of the ride were times the trail encountered a roadway but, by design, crossed over or under it without either traveler having to stop. Long bridges allow riders to peddle across gaps as cars drive below and even cross Interstate 91. There is a half moon bridge and two long, dark tunnels (with electric lighting in one) while coming into St. Johnsbury that felt otherworldly to cycle through.

Another highlight is the Danville Railroad Station historic site. The structure from 1870 stands as a testament to an earlier time and has been updated with bicycle racks, an air pump to top off tires and a “fix it” bicycle repair station that stand apart from the aged building with a fresh coat of yellow paint. In a pond to the right immediately after the station, a symphony of peepers sung out loudly during the ride on a warm June Sunday following days of rain.

In one section near Danville, the forest gives way to open manicured lawns with a cemetery and a beautiful home/estate. There’s a quintessential Vermont red barn with cupolas and weathervanes on one side of the trail across from a cottage overlooking a pond that is postcard worthy.

Stopping for bite or a pit stop is possible in a couple locations other than at the beginning and end. Marty’s 1st Stop deli and store and a gas station were within sight of the trail in Danville and a sign beside the trail advertises the close proximity of Good Fellas restaurant. An AirBnB also touted its direct access to the trail.

The Lamoille Valley Rail Trail finishes up in St. Johnsbury with a slight turn northward alongside the Passumpsic River. A sign at the trailhead indicated a future extension was in the works to connect the trail to St. Johnsbury’s riverfront and downtown, with a trailhead pavilion and welcome center to come.

The trailheads on either end of the 14 mile route from West Danville to St. Johnsbury provide at least a dozen parking spaces each and a weather-protected large display trail map with information about the area. The West Danville trail head is a park and ride at the eastern edge of Joe’s Pond. A couple of portable toilets were there, plus a market – Hastings Store – across the way that ostensibly could provide snacks and a trail map, but wasn’t open that particular Sunday. The West Danville Footbridge, a covered walking bridge from 1977, and the Lone Sentry of Joe’s Pond statue are points of interest to see before starting out.

On the other end in St. Johnsbury is a more secluded parking area with no restrooms, but there are trash cans and clear signage for the beginning or end of the 93-mile Lamoille Valley Rail Trail, which provides a great opportunity to snap a photo to commemorate a hopefully enjoyable day of riding.

-April Barton

This article originally appeared on Burlington Free Press: Bike along on Vermont's new Lamoille Valley Rail Trail