Sustainable Designers Turn to Natural Dyes, Leather Scraps in Latest Lines
To Dye For: Colorful, joyful and unconventional are the words that come to mind when describing emerging New York-based sustainable label Ian Greer.
Shortly after graduating from the Fashion Institute of Technology in 2018, eponymous founder and designer Greer, racked up experience at Jonathan Simkhai, Derek Lam, Ralph Lauren and Ann Inc. Today, he balances an associate designer role at Ann Inc. with the demands of running a small business. The label produces in New York, working with partners like the family-owned 5001 Flavors Clothing Co. in the South Bronx and TNA Pattern in the Garment District.
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Joking about the realities of being a small sustainable designer today — with only his hot plates to lighten the load of dyeing fabrics naturally — Greer said, “I really want people to understand that natural dyes have a place in the industry. We just have to change the way we view our clothing. Natural dyes are changing and evolving as we wear them. If you stain something, you can overdye it. If the dye fades, cut it up and make it into something totally new.”
WWD asked Greer for one thing he didn’t learn in fashion school, and his advice was: “Make it before you buy it…When you study fashion design, you are focusing on designing. When you start your own brand — you aren’t just designing, you are product development, tech design, marketing, packing, shipping, customer experience and social media.”
Recently, the designer held a pop-up in East Village alongside New York-based designer vintage boutique Quell. Both brands look to collaborate more on biannual events as they etch in pop-up formats and Instagram selling in equal importance.
Leveled Up Leather: When designer Denise Focil launched her contemporary ready-to-wear AS by DF label more than a decade ago, leather was then an unintentional guidepost to more sustainable practices.
In her latest fall line for 2022 — an offshoot of the brand’s Sustainable Leathers program — Focil’s AS by DF incorporates all recycled leather scraps for its edit of leather staples (like tailored trousers, blouses and cropped blazers). Priced for a luxe market ($200 to $780), the label is carried at Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom, among others.
Since 2019, the Los Angeles label has been plastic-free in its shipping operations, using recycled paper for all packaging.
Even prior to dipping into the leather scraps in the latest collection, AS by DF had utilized chrome-free dyes. Without disclosing the name of the mill for proprietary purposes, Focil said the technology trims water use and emissions, boasting 90 percent less water than traditional tanning methods. She admitted some polyester is used as a bonding agent for the scraps which are included in the line.
Lab-grown leather is next on her agenda. “The reason I think it is the future is it can be completely clean, no waste and you don’t have to kill any animals.” Focil teased the launch of another program in September, which may incorporate more of her future-forward vision.
“My goal is for my garments to live a really long life, but still, one day this will end up thrown away. So completing the full-circle is something I use every single time I create anything.”
In addition, the label partners with nonprofit partner Ocean Conservancy in a profit-share, giving away $10 to ocean conservation efforts for every single leather garment sold as part of the recycled leather program. So far this year, the label has donated $40,000.
Courtesy AS by DF
Twinning With Teva: Teva is teaming up with twin-designers and DJs, Coco and Breezy, on a limited-edition accessories line made with recycled leather.
Released Wednesday, Teva’s signature Hurricane XLT2 style is being reworked with full-grain leather in the heel and suede detailing. Along the breathable mesh foot straps, Coco and Breezy is stamped in minimal font as a callout to the collaborators.
Both footwear and sunglasses are available in kids and adult sizes, retailing for between $60 to $90. The collection is available online at Teva and Nordstrom.
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