Sunscreen Pilling Can Be Prevented—Here's How
ohlamour studio / Stocksy
Medically reviewed by Julia A. Siegel, MD
You've done your due diligence: washed your face with all the proper cleansers, slathered on serums and oils and moisturizers, and as you're about to apply your sunscreen, the smooth surface of your face becomes textured and grainy. This is thanks to sunscreen forming small blobs or "pills," forcing you to repeat your routine.
Applying sunscreen is the most essential part of any beauty routine. And not only is pilling extremely frustrating, but it's also a waste of product. So what can you do about it? We talked to dermatologists Dr. Dendy Engelman and Dr. Morgan Rabach to learn more about the clinical and practical causes of sunscreen pilling and offer several solutions to get your skin and sun care routines back on track.
Meet the Expert
Dendy Engelman, MD, FACMS, FAAD is a board-certified cosmetic dermatologist and Mohs surgeon at the Shafer Clinic in New York City.
Morgan Rabach, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist based in New York City. She is the co-founder of LM Medical PLLC.
Why Does Sunscreen Pill?
According to our experts, sunscreen pilling could be caused by two main reasons: the products you use and how you apply them. But before you toss out everything in your medicine cabinet and book one too many skin appointments, read on for our expert advice on ways to stop sunscreen from pilling and get on with your skincare routine.
Exfoliate Regularly
Every good skincare routine starts with a clean slate. Exfoliation removes dead skin cells and debris, ensuring maximum absorption of skincare products, thus minimizing the risk of sunscreen pilling. However, Engelman says that finding a balance for your skin is key. "Exfoliating too much or too little can cause our skin to become too dry or overly oily, which also contributes to pilling," she says. "I suggest only exfoliating one to two times per week and using chemical rather than physical exfoliants."
Rabach notes, "Dry skin or flaking skin may prevent the sunscreen from being absorbed," so exfoliating and moisturizing are key.
Evaluate the Products You Use
People overuse many products in today's "more is more" beauty culture. Not only can this lead to certain products working against each other, but it can also damage your skin. "Using too many products can throw off the skin's microbiome, causing irritation, dryness, or excess oil production, which is directly related to pilling," Engelman explains. "The sunscreen formulation itself may pill, or the sunscreen may mix with other products or makeup, causing it to clump," adds Rabach.
Applying too much product at one time, especially heavy creams and oil-based products, might also block absorption and cause your SPF to pill.
Apply Products in the Right Order
The order in which you layer your skincare products plays a huge role in how they react with each other. Engelman explained that lighter, thinner products, such as serums, contain active ingredients with smaller molecular structures, while thicker products, like creams, utilize larger molecules. When applied incorrectly, the larger molecules prevent the smaller molecules from absorbing into the skin properly, thus rendering your products futile and forming the gunky layer that could lead to sunscreen pilling.
“I recommend starting with the lightest and thinnest skin care products first (like serums), then gradually moving on to thicker or heavier products (like moisturizer), and applying your SPF as the last step in your skincare routine,” Engelman says. However, it is important to note that if you are using a chemical sunscreen, this goes before your moisturizer, as it needs to penetrate the skin. If your sunscreen is a mineral formula, it can be applied after your moisturizer as the last step before makeup.
Let Products Dry Before Layering
The time it takes a product to dry or absorb depends on the product’s consistency and your skin type. Engelman suggests waiting at least 30-60 seconds after applying a product. Rabach recommends waiting around five to 10 minutes, letting any visible dewiness subside before moving on to the next step. Engelman also notes another good way to test if you’re ready for the next skincare step is to touch your face. “If you still feel wetness or product on your fingers, the product has not fully absorbed.”
Pay Attention to Ingredients
Several known ingredients can react with other products to form pills, including:
Silicones: Engelman explains that silicones, such as dimethicone, amodimethicone, and cyclomethicone, are commonly included in SPFs to increase the efficacy of the sunscreen by creating a barrier on the skin’s top layer to protect against environmental stressors such as wind and water. However, this also means they can clump together and form pilling.
Xanthan Gum: Rabach mentions xanthan gum as another potential pilling culprit. This multitasker ingredient is used in countless products as a thickener, stabilizer, and binder to enhance its texture and feel, but it can lead to pilling in high concentrations.
Mineral Blockers: Ironically, some cream SPF formulas with a high mineral content can lead to pilling for certain people. Try opting for mineral SPFs with “micronized” minerals to remedy this. Rabach notes that silicone, talc, mica, iron oxide, and carbomer can contribute to pilling.
If your SPF contains any of the ingredients mentioned above and you’re too hooked to give it up, try patting the product into your skin, rather than rubbing it, to decrease the likelihood of the sunscreen pilling.
Try New Products
Not all ingredients are made to work for everyone, and if the presence of a specific ingredient doesn't work with the other products in your skincare routine, it may be better to nix the one causing the problem and find another SPF. Fortunately, our experts provided several sunscreen options with little chance of pilling.
Engelman likes ISDIN's Isdinceutics Mineral Brush ($55) for a brush-on SPF for oily skin. It's super lightweight, and the dry formula helps to reduce oiliness, which could contribute to pilling.
"Those who are acne-prone should opt for a physical sunscreen that sits on top of the skin and reflects UV light instead of absorbing UV radiation like chemical sunscreens," Engelman says. Try Block Star Daily Mineral SPF 30 ($25) from Bliss, which is non-comedogenic and helps regulate oil production with rosa canina fruit oil.
Engelman recommends cream and lotion sunscreens for dry skin and to look for formulas containing hydrating ingredients to nourish skin all day. She says PREVAGE City Smart Broad Spectrum SPF 50 Hydrating Shield ($72) from Elizabeth Arden will also help to strengthen the skin barrier, making it more resilient.
"Sensitive skin types should use sunscreens that are fragrance-free," Engelman says and recommends the iconic formula of La Roche-Posay's Anthelios Mineral Zinc Oxide Sunscreen SPF 50 ($37), which has held holy grail status time and time again.
Perfect for those who find themselves using too many products, Glo Skin Beauty's C-Shield Anti-Pollution Moisture Tint SPF 30 ($50) is the ultimate multitasker with its three-in-one formula. The tinted moisturizer provides broad-spectrum SPF 30 protection, blue light protection, and vitamin C-driven antioxidant protection with a gorgeous glowy finish.
The Final Takeaway
Use your battle with sunscreen pilling to learn more about your skin, from what it needs to be healthy to forming an effective, streamlined routine to care for it. "Sunscreen that pills may have reduced efficacy and protection," says Rabach, adding to keep that in mind during application and reapplication. Be mindful of the ingredients you put onto your skin, and keep trying different products until you've found the right match.
Up Next: This Is How to Apply Sunscreen Like a Dermatologist
