What Summer Travel to Europe Will Look Like This Year

Reed Kaestner/Getty

With additional reporting by Sarah Allard

When travel journalist Jenn Rice decided to spend July and August in Italy and Croatia last year, she wasn’t expecting to be spending most of her time indoors. “It was very very hot, so I booked museum tickets during peak days or just lounged around in my room with a spritz and a book until the sun set.” In Dubrovnik she tried escaping to the sea for a cool dip, but everyone else had the same idea—resulting in sweaty, overcrowded beaches. “In Rome, gelato melted faster than the speed of light,” she says.

Come summer, major attractions like the Spanish Steps in Rome are thronged by international tourists and vacationing Europeans.
Come summer, major attractions like the Spanish Steps in Rome are thronged by international tourists and vacationing Europeans.

Rome and Dubrovnik weren’t the only European destinations overcome with heat. To travel in Europe in the summer of 2023 was to experience first-hand a single season of contrasting extremes. Temperatures swung from hot and dry to cold and wet, and heatwaves broke out across several of the most heavily touristed destinations, with temperatures reaching upwards of 100°F. In Northern Greece, wildfires broke out—the worst experienced there in 20 years—destroying homes, forests, and vineyards.

Yet in the midst of it all, the continent also saw record-breaking tourist numbers—the highest since pre-pandemic levels—even as hotel prices swelled and airfares hit peaks. From scenic escapes like Bellagio in Como and Taormina in Sicily (where the White Lotus effect was on full display) to bucket-list cities like Paris and Madrid, much of touristed Europe was completely overwhelmed.

“We had people calling us from Athens and Rome asking us to get them out [to somewhere cooler in Europe], because it was too hot and too crowded,” recalls Jan Sortland, founder of Scandinavia specialists Norwegian Adventures.

International tourists weren’t the only ones thronging these spots. According to the European Travel Commission, most Europeans took their vacations before the peak month of August, with Italy and France being their top destinations. This resulted in packed crowds at all the major attractions. For John Canning, an LA-based executive who traveled to Paris in July, the crowds were eye-opening. “We didn’t anticipate that everything we would want to see was sold out. We only got Musée d’Orsay tickets through our concierge at a substantial premium and could not get into the Louvre full stop,” he says.

Rice says the summer taught her to plan her travel differently this year—and beyond: “I’m going to try and do coastal Italy early in May, and if I decide to travel in Europe this summer it will be either Asturias in Northern Spain or the Julian Alps in Slovenia to keep cool."

She’s not alone—according to the travel specialists we spoke with, there’s an increased interest in lesser-known destinations offering a more laid back (and cooler) holiday. “Our guests are asking after places where they can be outdoors, yet have access to wine & foodie experiences and culture. Slovenia is a great example of where you can have all that without being overwhelmed with the heat; the Dolomites in Italy is another,” says Rachael Mendizabal, Europe travel specialist at Scott Dunn. Richard Hyde, COO at Small Luxury Hotels of the World, is seeing similar trends across their European portfolio: “Guests seem to be gravitating towards alternative destinations—Milos instead of Mykonos and Slovenia instead of Spain.”

Norway is a popular destination this summer, offering cooler weather and a myriad ways to be active outside, exploring the islands and fjords.
Norway is a popular destination this summer, offering cooler weather and a myriad ways to be active outside, exploring the islands and fjords.
Robert Bye/Unsplash

A big part of that shift will play into Sortland’s area of expertise: Northern Europe. With the Med getting too hot to handle, experts predict that tourism will shift northwards. “We’re seeing a lot of interest in Copenhagen and Stockholm for the cultural experience, and then onward to Norway for the nature. Currently, the fjords are still a favorite but Norway is a large country and there’s so much more to see—the Helgeland coast for example with its beautiful coastline and mountainous islands,” he says. The draw is a more moderate temperature and unique outdoor experiences. “Iceland is a big favorite right now with the Northern lights being the most active this year from September through March,” says Mendizabal.

In turn, for many, the more standard city breaks will fall later in the year. “Athens and Rome will always be desirable destinations, but we’ve seen an uptick in many people preferring to go there in May and October to swerve crowds,” says Carolyn Addison, head of product at Black Tomato, noting the weather in fall has been stable lately and enticing to travelers not tied to school holidays.

With this increased flexibility, shoulder season will become tricker to define, according to Mendizabal. Thanks to hotels extending their season as demand shifts to almost year-round and the high-season pricing window getting longer, the days of “scooping a deal in September are likely over.” At Jumeirah Palace in Capri, the season now runs from March to the end of December. “Thanks to the good weather, guests are staying longer than in the past,” says Ermanno Zanini, regional vice president at Jumeirah Group, Southern Europe and United Kingdom.

Castello di Vicarello in Tuscany's Maremma countryside has traditionally stayed open in March and November. “We're pushing the low season as much as possible because we truly believe it is a wonderful time to discover Tuscany. There is so much for guests to enjoy from hiking to mountain biking, truffle hunting, and wine tastings,” says owner Neri Baccheschi Berti.

Crucially, traveling in the shoulder and off seasons isn't just about avoiding the crowds; it’s knowing that seasonal destinations are multi-dimensional, with year-round appeal. “One of my favorite things to do in cooler weather is to hike to the peak of Mount Solaro, with its beautiful views of the town of Capri and the bay of Marina Piccola with the Faraglioni, as well as Anacapri. You also see plenty of wintering birds on the island,” says Zanini.

We spoke to our favorite local tastemakers about the year-round appeal of Italy's most loved destinations.

Zanini adds that they are in talks with the island's municipality to consider what it would take to stay open in February and March, traditionally strictly closed off. “It's not as straightforward as you think. There’s a lot of infrastructure that needs to be geared towards the low season: restaurants need to stay open, as do shops, and guides need to be available; it can’t just be the hotel,” he adds.

However, with staying open longer, there’s a real opportunity to engage local communities year-round, not to mention stabilize the hiring pool—and improve work culture. “We’ve already seen the positive impact of a longer season for our partners on the ground and locals in the hospitality and tourism sector,” says Addison, who adds that shifts in travel seasons are far from a fleeting trend. “This pattern for more year-round travel will continue to pick up pace in 2025—and beyond," she says.

Travel specialists are quick to point out that even with some of this rebalancing, summer this year and next will continue to see high demand for travel to—and within—Europe. According to Hayley Berg, chief economist at Hopper, while airfare remains higher than at this time in 2019, 40% of all searches for international trips this summer are to Europe, in line with last year and slightly higher than in 2019.

“Sure, we think that traveler numbers on the Côte d'Azur will smooth out through the year, but summer will certainly remain the festive season—only it will be longer,” says Lucie Weill, owner of wellness retreat Lily of the Valley near St. Tropez, which sees its faire share of packed streets and crowded beaches come summer. Weill adds that the hotel has seen success in extending its season.

For travel specialist Cari Gray of Gray & Co. late requests and a lack of flexibility could mean getting turned away because of a lack of availability. “Whether it’s a visit to the Vatican or dogsledding in Alaska, access is going to be very difficult. And there are only that many high-end lodges in Lapland,” she says. Addison offers the example of Lake Como, where the best properties can often get booked up a year or two in advance during the busiest summer months. “Knowing that the top hotels and guides are getting booked up and that weather disruptions are increasingly unpredictable, clients who want to commit to the most popular summer hotspots in Europe, like the Greek islands and Sardinia are securing their bookings a year out.”

The Balearic island of Menorca is a charming escape with its rocky coves, white-sand beaches, and green rolling hills.

Overhead view of Cala Turqueta beach, Menorca

The Balearic island of Menorca is a charming escape with its rocky coves, white-sand beaches, and green rolling hills.
Matteo Colombo/Getty

Ultimately, it’s not about giving up on all the places you love: just about pivoting, even if within the same country. “Why not Menorca instead of Mallorca, with its explosion of fantastic hotels and its great beach front, or Epirus in Northern Greece on the Albanian border with its Stone villages, old-growth forests, and truffle hunts instead of the islands," says Gray.

"In Italy we’re always pushing to discover new areas, even in regions that we’ve been exploring for decades like Tuscany and Umbria because new hotels are opening up regularly,” says Courtney Mundy, a travel specialist at experiential travel experts Butterfield & Robinson.

And, a word of caution for the rising favorites: “Smaller destinations in Iceland & Norway will really need to consider how to manage the higher number of visitors than ever before,” says Addison. “Parts of Iceland are overtouristed,” agrees Sortland, “so, it’s not unreasonable to think that smaller communities in Norway could eventually be at risk, too.” Whether it's through new tourist tax regimens or limits on cruise ship day-trippers to reduce crowding, a shifting tide will need more alert local governments—and as we’re swapping beaches for the mountains or Rome for Stockholm, more responsible travel habits that leave fewer traces behind.

Originally Appeared on Condé Nast Traveler