Strong Spring Collections in Milan Charm Retailers
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MILAN — Milan Fashion Week was buzzing this season, and retailers praised the creativity on show in the city, hailing the arrival of young designers at storied brands, and touted the energy and excitement felt throughout. Diesel opening up its show to the public, and Moncler celebrating its 70th anniversary with an event on the city’s main and central Piazza Duomo that drew 18,000 people, added vivacity to the week.
“Milan Fashion Week really picked up the pace with a lot of newness, new designers at iconic fashion houses being the standout for me,” said Bosse Myhr, director of womenswear and menswear at Selfridges. “The future for Milan Fashion Week seems to be in a solid place for the next seasons to come.”
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Bottega Veneta, Gucci, Jil Sander and Prada were among the standouts, with show concepts and sets that added value to the strong collections.
Lingerie-inspired looks, Y2K, cargo pants, elongated silhouettes, tailoring, fringes, sheer layering and a plethora of embellishments, such as beading and sequins, were among the main trends.
“You might as well sew in tags which say ‘Made-well in Italy,’ because there was a virtuosity in the craftsmanship across most collections, whether you liked the design direction or not,” said Linda Fargo, senior vice president of fashion at Bergdorf Goodman. “The fabrics and the artisanship were superb. Of special mention: The mixed-gender faces and bodies on the runway this week were also remarkable for their unique beauty.”
Heather Gramston, head of womenswear at Browns
Favorite collection: Prada was a real love. Their sleek tailoring mixed with creasing and unfinished edges, suggesting dressing in a hurry, was masterfully done. Miuccia and Raf cleverly showcased their individual reinterpretations of archival silhouettes, and the black lace trim silk nightie was a standout piece.
Best show format: For Diesel, Glenn Martens opened up the show to almost 5,000 people from the general public alongside students; a big moment for the rebellious brand. At the center of their show, a large inflatable sculpture of four intertwined bodies provided the set for models to walk through which was unforgettable. Jil Sander’s location in a field outside of Milan was another highlight, alongside their amazing soundtrack provided by Benji B. Tod’s also deserves a mention, for the permanent art installation at Pirelli Hangar Bicocca, which acted as the backdrop for the show. Finally, Gaetano Pesce’s marbled chairs at Matthieu Blazy’s Bottega Veneta, which will be sold as part of Design Miami later this year, were simply genius.
Top trends: The overt sexiness of the past two seasons has further evolved with designers taking a more sensual approach, utilizing sheer fabrics and suggestive details and replacing the past-seasons ultra-revealing shapes.
Must-have item(s): Prada’s mary janes with a chunky cowboy heel, and the Gizmo-adorned bag at Gucci.
Budgets up or down: Milan is a key city for us in terms of investment due to the larger luxury players here. We are always reactive to trends, what we’re excited about and what we feel will resonate with our Browns customer. Our budgets are therefore reflective of this.
New talent: Maximilian Davis’ eagerly anticipated debut at Ferragamo.
Impressions of the week: There was a real buzz in the city this season. It was super busy at the shows, with a fun vibe off the catwalk also. The new guard at the heritage brands added a layer of excitement, with the Ferragamo and Bally shows jam-packed with friends and fans of Max and Rhuigi [Villaseñor].
Linda Fargo, senior vice president of fashion at Bergdorf Goodman
Favorite collections: The best things can’t be easily categorized, and the best of Milan was just that — uniquely themselves! Artful and intelligent signature collections rose to the top and will influence the season’s trends and desires overall. Prada delivered another iconic and innovative collection, with numerous chapters, subjects, ambiguity and ultimately — desirability. We didn’t want to leave our re-see. Gucci gifted us with a fashion history-making moment with its unforgettable, never-been-done–before staging of its collection on 68 sets of identical yet different twins, which gave us more than double the pleasure. It was genius on every level. Our growing anticipation for “what’s next” from the talented Matthieu Blazy was fully satisfied at Bottega Veneta. He confidently built upon his expanding codes for the house to great effect. Artistry meets craft meets must-have here in every category! The rain only furthered our romance with the Jil Sander show — Luke and Lucie Meier had good reason to embrace in their post-show walk — this successful collection had their soft-yet-modern hand all over it. While the rest of the world has finally caught up with daring and baring dressing, Donatella has mastered her specialty and sent out a strong and edgy X-factor collection. It’s believable and authentic here. Intimate presentations in Milan were great for both seeing, touching and talking up close. A standout moment and collection were from Veronica Leoni at Quira. We’re taken by her boundary pushing, beautifully made deconstructions.
Best presentation concept: We were treated to memorable and artful Milanese venues and experiences all over the city, with the Gucci double-take set experience, and Prada’s voyeuristic, paper clad space being the most vivid. We also loved Tod’s show in the shadow of Anselm Kiefer’s monumental Towers of Wisdom, MM6’s ballet-inspired collection with a live orchestra, which alternated between music by Laurie Anderson and Stravinsky, and Jil Sander’s romantic “en plein air” setting on the edges of Linate, of all places.
Trendspotting: Undressed Dressing wasn’t the only trend to talk about this week. We’re leaning into the many new takes on tailoring, the influence of upcycling seen in crushed and revived surfaces and raw edges and repurposed concepts. Utilitywear walked hand-in-hand with more decorative trends in satin, feathers and fringe. After a few seasons of vivid color, we’re liking the new softer hues, and the surprise of unexpected colors in unmatching accessories. Purple and gray both showed up, too. Pent-up party dressing is still going out and strong with plenty of shining surfaces and high and higher heels.
Must-have item: Favorite detail of the week? “Trailings” which stream off the backs of tailored pieces at Prada and Bottega. On the must-have list are a few layers, starting with a great body, adding a bandeau bra, sheathing it in something transparent, then adding a top layer of extra modern collapsing tailoring.
Tiffany Hsu, vice president womenswear and kidswear fashion buying at Mytheresa
Favorite collections: I loved Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Dolce & Gabbana and Jil Sander. I also really liked how the ribbed knits, which Andreādamo is already known for, were updated.
Best presentation concept: Gucci’s Twinsburg show was amazing — the soundtrack really stuck with me! Bottega Veneta’s beautiful setting by Gaetano Pesce stood out as well and, of course, Moncler’s takeover of the Milano Duomo was stunning and spectacular!
Trendspotting: We saw a lot of denim, cargo, ’90s slipdress, rave influences, tassels and sheer layering.
Rickie De Sole, women’s designer fashion and editorial director at Nordstrom
Favorite collections: Matthieu Blazy delivered another strong collection at Bottega Veneta full of covetable fringe dresses and understated leather separates. Other standout shows included Jil Sander’s take on modern evening, Gucci’s maximalist Twinsburg collection and Prada’s dark twist on the classics. Brunello Cucinelli’s take on relaxed Italian glamour with a nod toward evening, the collection showcased fantastic opera knits that were another highlight of the week.
Best presentation concept: We loved Gucci’s Twinsburg casting. There was a real connection to humanity at play, which you felt watching each set of twins come together on the runway.
Trendspotting: For spring 2023, texture is everywhere. From the softest sequined knit fringe at Jil Sander, to crinkled silks at Prada and beaded hems at Bottega Veneta, this season’s clothes beg to be touched. Skin is in. Exposed backs, deep cuts, bandeau bra tops, bare midriffs, a peekaboo at the hip and slits up to the thigh and beyond — flesh is a hot trend for spring. The search for the perfect pair of pants ends this spring following the numerous strong iterations we saw coming out of Milan from Versace to Fendi — voluminous pants were everywhere.
Must-have item: Bottega Veneta’s fringe dresses.
General comment on the season: This season it was exciting to have so many new designers come onto the scene at heritage Italian brands. From Maximilian Davis at Ferragamo to Rhuigi Villaseñor at Bally, it was interesting to see house codes interpreted through the lens of new talent and fun to spot archival inspiration alongside the fresh creativity we saw on the runway.
Jodi Kahn, vice president of luxury fashion at Neiman Marcus
Favorite collections: Dolce & Gabbana had been teasing Kim Kardashian on Instagram this week and she did not disappoint as a co-designer with Stefano & Domenico. Crystals, corsets and sheerness were key themes throughout the Dolce & Gabbana show, giving us all of the nostalgic feelings we love about this brand. The designers are clear on who their customer is and delivered a collection that will be perfect for their clientele. Not even the rain could take away from the beautiful Jil Sander collection. The setting was reminiscent of the beautiful Hauser & Wirth gardens in Somerset on a dramatic gray day. It was refreshing to see a pretty, soft color palette of pastels against the black gravel runway. There was certainly a texture play with the use of many types of fringes, sequins and cutouts but there was the right amount of tailoring to complement the assortment. The metallic dimension added a glam element to this collection. There were show-stopping pieces, such as feathers, in ready-to-wear and accessories, as well as sequined fringe hemlines — we are excited about this one! Not only is Versace a standout from Milan but Paris Hilton closing the show is hard to forget! The Versace girl is rebellious, confident and independent. There was a great combination of solid black looks with pops of color such as fuchsia and purple. The key themes here were fringe, studded embellishments, lace, corseting and lingerie details. Logos were very prevalent throughout, which our customers respond very well to. The collection had the right amount of sexy dresses, miniskirts, tailoring and denim. The platform seems to be a continuing trend as nearly every model was wearing the sky-high shoe. Matthieu Blazy did not disappoint with his second collection for Bottega Veneta. The setting was a work of art in and of itself with the room lined with chairs designed for Bottega by Gaetano Pesce. The collection showcased wardrobe basics in different fabrications, many in leather but not easily noticed until you are up close. Many pieces were true works of art with beading and fringe of all kinds — multicolor, leather, silk. Three show-stopping fringe dresses closed the show with the most beautiful movement. The evolution of footwear was noticeable and will perfectly complement the new Bottega woman.
Trendspotting: The strongest trend seen throughout Milan was the lingerie details — corseting being the most important, as well as lace and bra strap details. There were a few vibrant color accents in yellow and red, but predominantly muted colors in pastels and neutrals. The importance of black throughout the collections continued: black is always a staple in women’s wardrobes throughout the year. The sheerness in fabrications and various silhouettes were still very prevalent, continuing from prior fashion weeks. The most fun trend we have continued to see throughout the month are the fringe accents on ready-to-wear and accessories, popping up in different ways — beading, silk, leather, crochet. Metallic elements added glam moments to many of the collections, which will be welcomed by our customers.
Must-have item: Definitely a corset of some kind! The corseting details provided a vision of femininity, seductive in a delicate way, and very wearable — layered under tailored pieces, seen in both sheer and opaque fabrics, both for day and evening
Budgets: We want our customers to purchase pieces that make them feel confident and happy — collecting unique items that provide versatility, while also investing in wardrobe staples. Our role is to curate an assortment of notable pieces from each collection that we know our discerning customers will respond to and have an immediate emotional response to the product. It’s about the lasting value they get from their purchases.
General comment on the season: While there were highlights throughout the week in Milan, it became evident many designers are reinterpreting the standards of traditional spring summer dressing — featuring leather, suede and heavy fabrications, which are not typical for the warmer seasons. Our customers are ready to turn the page come February and embrace the change of season with lighter pieces that welcome the warmer temperatures.
Federica Montelli, head of fashion at Rinascente
Favorite collections: Gucci, Prada, Diesel, Versace, Jil Sander, Bottega Veneta, Tod’s, Blumarine, Andreadamo. Ferragamo and Bally convinced with their debut collections by Maximilian Davis and Rhuigi Villaseñor.
Best presentation concept: I was particularly touched by Gucci’s “Twinsburg” coup de théâtre, it was not only an excellent collection but also an emotional moment. Sunnei, later on that day, brought twins again on the runway proving that in these turbulent times, the reflection on duality stays at the heart of creatives. Diesel’s mega show, open to the public, was another standout moment of the week.
Trendspotting: Y2K is still in its peak, with a strong trend for sexy dresses, denim, sparkling partywear and mini proportions. Heels are becoming higher and higher, fitting well the maximalist aesthetic and the party mood of the early 2000s. There was a focus on the jersey dress: draped on the shoulders, on the hips, with deep cowl necks and asymmetric shoulders, cutouts, trains.
Must-have item: You can’t miss a plateau pump; extra-flared, fluid pants; distressed and colored denim.
Budgets: We have been witnessing a very positive season in our stores since the summer, back to pre-pandemic levels. We are therefore investing for a comparable spring 2023 season.
Buying process: I can finally say we are back to buying mostly in the showroom, in person. Even with all the technological support, there is no better way to appreciate the quality, the proportions, the materials. We still have a few appointments online, but we are trying to limit those in case of schedule constraints.
General comment on the season: When times of crisis strike, that’s when the creative community finds its strength and pushes the boundaries of creativity. It was a very positive fashion week for Milan, with many debuts, a busy schedule and back to a full guest list from overseas. Milan keeps pushing its new generation of designers, such as Del Core, Marco Rambaldi, Andrea Adamo, Vitelli, Avav: given so many young creatives debuting at the helm of traditional powerhouses, it is good that the fashion system is supporting these talents in a way to prepare them for a potential debut on the big stage soon. I am expecting a similarly strong end of the fashion weeks moving into Paris.
Roopal Patel, SVP, fashion director at Saks
General comment on the season: Change is in the air in Milan! The synergy of fashion, art, design, community and storytelling was next level for spring 2023, especially at Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Moncler, and Prada. Dolce & Gabbana delivered the glitz and fanfare that Milan Fashion Week is known for with Kim Kardashian as its creative director. There was a shift from the established to a new guard of talent with the debut of Maximilian Davis for Salvatore Ferragamo, Marco De Vincenzo for Etro, and Rhuigi Villaseñor for Bally. The week has left a lasting impression on us.
Favorite collections: Alessandro Michele’s “Twinsburg” collection for Gucci was pure genius and a highlight of the week. Matthieu Blazy’s collection for Bottega Veneta was a standout, reinforcing and refining his vision that he shared during his debut collection last season. The level of luxury was elevated as seen in the opening looks — plaids, pinstripes, denim, T-shirts, and argyle knits — all in trompe-l’oeil. Jil Sander’s California-inspired collection brought sunshine on a rainy Milan day with a chic, effortless lineup of tailored separates in soft pastels, confetti sequin pieces for evening, and must-have accessories. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons’ collection for Prada was dreamy and sublime, continuing the strong dialogue between the two designers with the play on soft and structured uniform tailoring and slipdresses, layered knits and a new canvas tote style shown in bright colors. Additional standouts included JJ Martin’s collection for La Double J, Brunello Cucinelli, Armarium by Giorgia Gabriele, and Maximilian Davis’ debut collection for Ferragamo.
Best presentation concept: Alessandro Michele’s “Twinsburg” show for Gucci was very moving, featuring 68 sets of identical twins as the models and two shows happening simultaneously separated by a partition, without the audience knowing. Each pair of identical twins dressed in identical looks was impactful, and it was incredibly emotional to see the twins come together in the final walk, smiling at each other as they joined hands. There was such a sense of community and unity felt in that moment, tied together by the narrative repeated in the soundtrack, “alike, but not alike, different, opposite.” Moncler’s 70th-anniversary celebration at the Piazza Duomo was iconic, featuring 1,952 performers dancing in the square in white coats from the brand as an homage to its founding year. It truly brought the anniversary celebration to life for the city of Milan.
Trendspotting: An overall minimalist, less is more approach emerged at Milan Fashion Week, best seen with the tailored separates showcased at Jil Sander, Bottega Veneta and Fendi. Day-to-evening sheer pieces were prominent on the runways, as well as cargo and utility in directional satin and sheer fabrications, slipdresses shown in ombré dip dyes, soft pastels, and solids, and bustiers and corsets. Key trends within footwear and accessories include sculpted metal heels and fold over bags.
Must-have item: One of the opening looks at Bottega Veneta paired with their sculpted heels.
Bosse Myhr, director of womenswear and menswear at Selfridges
Favorite collections: The three houses of Bally, Etro and Ferragamo, all with new designers, were among my favorites in Milan. The vibe at Bally felt like a great departure from anything the house has done before, sexy-relaxed for women and classy, elevated West Coast vibes for men. Etro’s show lifted the brand to a level of sophistication, especially the ready-to-wear being a standout for me. Ferragamo’s new direction with draped dresses and gowns plus short shorts for the guys, all with a red sand background, remains one of the highlights of last week for me.
Best presentation concept: It’s safe to say that runway shows are back, some in new interesting venues, creating moods that enhance the ideas of each designer’s vision for their respective collection. Most shows were broadcast via social media directly to the world as well, offering access to a wider audience.
Trendspotting: Dressing up was one of the key trends for me in Milan. Cocktail dresses and party dresses featured in every collection, Versace providing us with a standout collection, the purple gown worn by Bella Hadid was a particular highlight. Sequins and sparkling fabrics were also a favorite among Gucci and Dolce & Gabbana for example.
Must-have item: For the perfect black dress, look no further than the Prada collection — it will have you spoiled for choice. Also the Bottega Veneta look worn by Kate Moss, especially the blue shirt, is a sure must have.
April Hennig, chief merchant at Moda Operandi
Favorite collections: The Milan collections delivered on sophisticated luxury for the discerning woman. Prada captured the nuance of dressing for every part of the day in a standout collection this week. Jil Sander’s dreamy display of considered wardrobing made us forget it was raining. And Matthieu Blazy’s sophomore collection for Bottega Veneta reasserted his strong new vision for the brand, where thoughtful tromps l’oeil and craftsmanship are presented as intellectual luxury.
Best presentation concept: The week was full of immersive brand experiences — Moncler’s epic 70th-anniversary display at the Duomo, Bottega’s impactful collaboration with Gaetano Pesce, Versace’s glam goth set, Prada’s voyeuristic windows, and Ferragamo’s assertive red-enveloped surroundings.
Trendspotting: An overarching theme of the Milan shows is the tension and interplay of structure and fluidity. This came through in sheer and transparent layers (Prada and Bottega) and corsetry in all forms (over fluid dresses at Del Core, and prominent at Versace and Dolce). Visual interest was measured and restrained appearing as hints of metallic (fringe at Jil Sander and hardware at Bottega), gradients of color (Ferragamo and Etro), rosette applications (Prada and Bottega), and hot fix crystals (Del Core, Des Phemmes). Leather is the hero textile: Bottega’s trompe-l’œil, structured jackets at Prada, and gothic biker influence at Versace.
Must-have item: The Bottega woven mule and Prada’s Mary Janes. The easy slinky dress — satin tube versions at Prada, jersey iterations at Versace and Ferragamo, cowl neck gowns at Del Core, and chenille knit cutout takes at Jil Sander. Dressed-up daywear and elevated essentials look better than ever, from structured blazers to fluid trousers.
General comment on the season: An exciting new wave of talent is taking the helm of heritage Italian houses, reinvigorating storied brands for the next generation luxury client. Milan was compelling in its exploration of the range of wardrobing, with the strongest collections nailing the powerful sophistication of the modern woman.
Nathalie Lucas-Verdier, general merchandise manager women’s ready-to-wear, women’s leather goods, accessories and shoes at Printemps
Favorite collections: Gucci, Diesel, Prada, Bottega Veneta.
Best presentation concept: Diesel World’s largest inflatable sculpture was breathtaking and Gucci’s heart-touching show was deeply emotional with the twins concept.
Trendspotting: Sexiness, Y2K attires: low waist, short skirts, cargos, corset, satin. Tailoring with details and perfect cuts.
Must-have item: Prada jacket with a train, cargos, dresses on pants, elevated denim, bike jacket, satin.
Budgets: Up
General comment on the season: A fresh take on Milan Fashion Week with new names giving a new perspective to the Italian scene and rejuvenating patrimonial brand legacies (Ferragamo, Bally, Trussardi, Missoni, Etro).
Joseph Tang, fashion director at Holt Renfrew
Favorite collections: Alessandro Michele’s Gucci Twinsburg fashion show was a remarkable depiction of what can appear the same but be different. The show captivated key codes of the house while still showcasing new ideas. We continue to be inspired by the intersection of creative ideas from Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons. This season’s Prada show exemplified the subversive codes of the house while leveraging new textile innovations. Every season we are excited by the new take on the Prada uniform. Luke and Lucie Meier’s men’s and women’s show for Jil Sander was a beautiful representation of the renewed codes of modern dressing. The collection continues to elevate suit separates and offer a minimalistic evening approach.
Best presentation concept: The 70th anniversary of Moncler held at the Duomo. No amount of rain could stop the epic display! Glenn Martens’ record-breaking inflatable human figures brought together different generations of fashion lovers in one arena. His collection for Diesel brings a new meaning to fashionable denim pieces.
Trendspotting: Short and sexy minis continue to dominate the runways from Versace, Missoni and Diesel. The low-slung skirts and jeans with micro mini tops or dresses inspired by the early Aughts is here to stay! Special mention goes to the resurrection of iconic Dolce & Gabbana pieces as curated by Kim Kardashian. New codes of tailoring done in silk satins or cotton gabardines done best at Prada, Tod’s, and Brunello Cucinelli. The focus on craft and artisanal pieces — from embroidered denim jacquards at Etro to the highly technical leather flannel shirt and jeans from Bottega Veneta — are showcased best in Milan.
Must-have item: The Gucci Gremlin slides; a satin ballet flat from Tod’s; the Bottega Veneta leather flannel shirt; Jil Sander satin cargo pants; Fendi’s wedge slide; Versace’s low-slung leather jeans; Dolce Re-edition dress.
Buying process: We are energized to be back in market in full swing. While the schedule has been jam-packed, we are excited to be back in the showrooms to see new and emerging designers and reconnect with our brand partners.
General comment on the season: Viva Italia! It’s been an incredible week in Milan with a schedule filled of new creative minds at the houses of Etro, Bally, Missoni, and Ferragamo. There was a remarkable energy this week that we hope to offer our customers next spring.
Riccardo Tortato, head of buying departments and men’s fashion director at Tsum, Moscow and DLT, St. Petersburg
Favorite collections: Bottega Veneta, Dolce & Gabbana, Brunello Cucinelli.
Best presentation concept: Gucci. The concept of twins was really incredible. I also loved the Dolce & Gabbana show where I saw again on the catwalk the iconic creations of the duo.
Trendspotting: Long skirt and dresses. I noticed long silhouettes and a kind of sophistication.
Must-have item: Lingerie dress from Dolce & Gabbana, Kate Moss’ look in Bottega Veneta and the Versace platform shoes.
General comment on the season: The general comment for this Milan Fashion Week is extremely positive. Big and smaller brands delivered excellent collections, with a real sophistication, style and quality shows. The COVID-19 moment’s feeling is completely forgotten, and Milan was really active and full of the usual pre-pandemic traffic. My only critique of these shows is that they started with one hour or more of delay, especially in the evenings, making the day extremely long for us. Considering the global weather change I suggest the brands take into consideration the possibility of rain when they plan [to show] open air in September.
Lea Cranfield, chief buying and merchandising officer at Net-a-porter
Favorite collections: Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander and Versace were some of our favorites in Milan this season.
Best presentation concept: We were blown away by the casting at Gucci featuring all the twins, it was amazing to have Gucci back on the Milan show schedule and the collection was imaginative and inspiring as always. And of course the Bottega concept was incredible, from the specially made Pesce chairs to Kate Moss walking, it was a moment!
Trendspotting: Color was key in Milan, all red everything at Maximilian’s debut Ferragamo show, even the sand! I loved the red puffy pouch clutches at Jil Sander, too. And contrastingly we saw a sea of black dresses across the collections. And it looked like Barbiecore is here to stay, headlined by Versace and the presence of Paris Hilton.
Must-have item: Bottega’s Intrecciato knee-high boots are top of our wish lists.
General comment on the season: Milan felt like it was back to its old self via the star power present at the shows, with Paris Hilton closing Versace, Kate Moss walking at Bottega and of course Kim Kardashian at Dolce.
Simon Longland, head of menswear and womenswear at Harrods
Favorite collections: Bottega showed an absolutely spectacular collection that offered huge diversity from super casual to red carpet, strict tailoring and bold embellishments. The absolute highlight of Milan Fashion Week for me — a collection full of truly outstanding pieces, not to mention how great it was to see Kate return to the runway. Jil Sander delivered a beautiful collection in the most perfect way. A totally harmonious collection of womenswear and menswear; cleverly sharing fabrications and detailing across the full collection from satin and sequins to knits and wools. The rich collection’s color palette struck a perfect balance, contrasting a wash of beautiful natural neutrals, soft washed muted pastels and black — utterly wearable and versatile for all.
Across Bottega and Jil Sander, it was really great to see total harmony between the men’s and women’s collections. Fabrications, motifs, silhouettes and embellishments all brought through seamlessly — from sequins to knits and wools.
Prada was also incredibly strong and compelling — a collection that was undeniably and irrefutably Prada. The brand’s DNA and quintessential house codes appeared throughout and will be a surefire success with Prada lovers. From opening with the instantly recognizable strict, minimal and ultra-precise tailoring, we saw motifs of collections past infiltrate the runway.
Best presentation concept: It was great to see Gucci play on the format, creating two shows within the one experience before bringing the twin pairings together for a powerful finale. Bottega Veneta’s show was also unforgettable, where the runway and seat were themselves a work of art by Gaetano Pesce, super interesting and the final addition to a perfect show.
Trendspotting: Tailoring is here to stay, and we saw it in all guises and fabrications this week, from Gucci and Prada’s iconic strict silhouettes to softer, more fluid pieces from Jil Sander and Ferragamo. The fluidity that we saw in this style of tailoring was filtered into full collections, we saw draping and gentle ruching across the board and it made for some incredibly elegant collections from Etro, Max Mara and Jil Sander.
The embellishments we have seen all year reached a crescendo this weekend and showcased in every possible iteration Retailers touted Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander and Prada, but also the arrival of new designers at storied labels and the emergence of new talents, from Kim Kardashian’s Dolce & Gabbana all-crystal detailing to beautiful beading at Jil Sander and Bottega’s incredibly wearable embellished accessories.
The introduction of denim that we saw in London continued this weekend with each brand bringing their own identity and influence to the fabric. Particular highlights for me were Bottega, Dolce and Etro.
A ’90s goth vibe was also very present across many collections and pieces — skirts and dresses worn over trousers, low-rise styles, fit and flare jeans and trousers and a lot of black and purple!
Must-have item: Jil Sander’s sequined fringe bag was a stunning addition to the collection, and Prada’s silk duchess slipdresses — an absolute must-have dress for next summer.
General comment on the season: Within a very packed schedule , we saw a of number of very impressive collections that we are eager to offer in Harrods — looking forward to seeing the trends of the week further develop in Paris.
Liane Wiggins, head of Womenswear at Matchesfashion
Favorite collections: My personal highlights have been Bottega Veneta, Jil Sander & Prada.
Best presentation concept: Bottega Veneta’s ‘room’ was a real highlight. Matthieu Blazy worked closely with design pioneer Gaetano Pesce to create a swirling rainbow resin runway. In an incredible outdoor location, Lucie and Luke Meier masterfully walked us through a playground of different lifestyles, from old Hollywood glamour to the intimidating futurism of Silicon Valley. Blazé Milano presented their collection in the incredible Via Santa Marta where the beautifully designed interior perfectly complemented the collection.
Trendspotting: As we have seen throughout the other cities, interesting metallics continue to be a standout trend for the season with Jil Sander’s incredible fabric developments – bouncy metallic chenille, silver sequins and high craft techniques. The new wardrobing notes were epitomized with the Kate Moss look at Bottega Veneta.
Must-have item: Prada’s navy suit with chiffon layered detailing, Dodo Bar Or’s modern woven leather bohemian kaftans and Gucci’s blazer and chinoiserie dresses.
General comment on the season: The Italian houses offered a strong season of newness and a great mix of high fashion and redefined wardrobing which continues to be a strong trend across SS23.
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