The Beauty of the World: History, Design and Craft in Fez, Morocco
Maze-like streets, donkey carts, glittering zellige tiles, the oldest tannery in the world, and our favorite secret herboriste shop
With its ancient ramparts, covered corridors and maze-like streets, Fes startles with its strangeness. One of the world’s last walled medieval bastions, it was built from the ground up by master craftsmen and is brimming with a thousand years of Islamic design history. It may not have the sexiness of Marrakesh or the South-of-France feel of Tangier, but it has other things that make it an unmissable destination: unbroken generations of craftsmen, a fabled past, and the beguiling self-confidence that comes from life lived at a centuries-old pace.
“Today the world holds so few secrets, those that remain need to be jealously guarded. Let Fes be among them.” — John Horne
BAB BOU JELOUD GATE
Begin your journey at the famous Bab Bou Jeloud gate which marks the main entrance to Fes El Bali (the old medina). Once through, you’re hurtled headlong into the past; cars are outlawed, donkey carts prevail, and it feels at times like you’re in a medieval pinball game. Yes, it’s chaotic, but in the best possible way, so try to relax into it. With miles of cobblestoned alleys, cellphone service is wonky, so hire a guide or factor in some time being lost. Keep an eye out for hidden wonders: a dilapidated door could crack open to reveal a glittering tiled palace. And if you hear someone shout, “Balak!” (Look out!), best hug a wall; in my experience, there’s usually a pack animal that needs to get by.
BOU INANIA MADRASA
Built in 1355, this nearly 700 year-old school of higher learning is a jaw-dropping feat of aesthetic handwork. Feast your eyes on all that square footage of cedar wood painstakingly carved in ornamental Arabic designs, and those mosaics made from hand-chiseled zellige tiles — yes, the same ones you spy all over design magazines, only here they’re the original 14th-century version. You’ll see this classic color palette of blue, terra cotta, and green (sky, earth, nature) over and over again in Fes. Zellige craftsmen pass down their skills from generation to generation and still must undergo a ten-year apprenticeship before they are allowed to make them.
CHOUARA TANNERIES
The largest and oldest of the Fes tanneries, Chouara is not for the faint of heart but if you can stomach the bracing odor (you can, you can; the fresh sprigs of mint on offer help remarkably), the birds-eye view of dye vats resembling a giant tray of watercolors is mesmerizing.
Watch as tanners half-submerge themselves in the vats to knead the skins with their bare feet, exactly as they have been doing for over 1,000 years. Visit in the morning when the natural vegetable dyes like poppy flower (red), mint (green), indigo (blue), cedar wood (brown) and henna (orange) are still rainbow-colored. Remember, tours are free and you don’t need to buy anything, but a small tip to the salesperson who led you through is considered standard.
OUR FAVORITE HERBORISTE SHOP
After the pungency of the pit, a change of air is usually needed and there happens to be the most wonderful herboriste a minute’s walk from the tannery. With its intricate mosaic floor and shelves stacked with glass canisters of dried flowers and scented oils, it’s an Aladdin’s cave of delights. While there, I bought a small vial of orange blossom oil and an inexpensive chunk of scented amber resin that I rub on my wrists to this day. The shop has no official name but after months of searching, I finally located its address on Google Maps. Go there if you can. 328H+HC3 Blida Fes Chouarra
DAR SEFFARINE
Dar Seffarine is the square of the metalsmiths. You’ll know you’re getting close when you hear the cacophony of hammer hitting metal. Working out of closet-sized workshops, master artisans forge, pound and pierce brass and copper into the lanterns, trays and kitchenware that take pride of place in every riad. Watching the entire process take place right in front of you—while one craftsman hammers out a copper sheet, another etches the last groove onto a bowl—is mesmerizing.
NEJJARINE MUSEUM
The Nejjarine Museum of Wood Arts and Crafts was once a “fondouk” or caravanserai for weary Silk Road travelers. We thought the gorgeous courtyard flanked with carved pillars and tiers of open balconies was worth the price of admission alone. In the little rooms where the traders once slept next to their bags of precious merchandise, you’ll see a fascinating collection of wooden artifacts: furniture, dowry chests, carved musical instruments, prayer beads, and more. Don’t be like us and forget to visit the rooftop—apparently, there are great views of the old medina.
FOR YOUR NOTES:
How to Get There: Fes is an easy one-hour flight from Marrakesh, or a four-hour scenic drive from Tangier.
Where to Stay: The riad we stayed in has sadly closed but here are a few located in the Old Medina I’d love to book on my next visit: Dar Seffarine, a 600-year-old Moorish palace; Jardin des Biehn, a former pasha’s residence restored by a cool French couple; and Riad Laaroussa, a 300-year-old palace with a central courtyard of orange trees.
Where to Eat: We had a great lunch at Cafe Clock, a very special tea made with fresh local herbs at Abdellah’s Cafe, and a lovely fancy dinner at Dar Roumana, an 18th century riad-turned-hotel (if you’re not staying there, they will send a porter to pick you up and escort you back home.)
Getting Around: Hire a guide. Fes is such a labyrinth that even locals become disoriented. Signage is scarce and confusing. A good guide will help you navigate the medina, give you deeper insights into Moroccan culture, and help ward off insistent street touts.
Hours: Many stores are closed on Friday for religious reasons so plan your shopping accordingly.
Ceramic shopping: Everywhere you go, you’ll see storefronts filled with Fassi ceramics, prized for their local grey clay which lightens when fired to the perfect pale backdrop for those gorgeous blue and white Moorish patterns. If you want to see an expert throw a bowl in real time, you can tour the Potters Quarter in Ain Nokbi just outside the medina.
Negotiating: If you decide to buy something, it’s essential to bargain hard. Never accept the initial price proposed: we met a newlywed couple who paid $5,000 for a rug they later discovered was worth $500. If you’re just looking, politely decline the mint tea which signals to them the game is afoot.
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Written by Lisa Borgnes Giramonti and Meghan McEwen, IN HAND is part travelogue and part travel ethos — exploring the intersection of design, craft and travel; celebrating people, places and objects.