Stella McCartney RTW Fall 2020
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Last season, Stella McCartney celebrated her love of animals with projections of various pairings in the act of copulation. This season she took a less intrusive approach, enlisting a bevy of cuddly costumed characters — bunny, cow, fox — to greet her guests upon arrival and offer each the gift of a sapling to take home and plant. (Many who will be traveling back home declined the lovely gesture; coronavirus questions may prove enough of a hurdle at Customs.)
On the runway, McCartney waved good-bye to cute, at least until the finale, when the animals reappeared. Until then, the collection was inspired, her program notes said, “By strong-willed women grounded in reality with a free spirit. They are the fearless, the pioneers, the disruptors, the visionaries — ready to express themselves and make a statement, fashion or otherwise.” One could call this season’s fashion statement abundant chic, as she filled her lineup with ample proportions, intense detailing and high-interest surface treatments. These included big, shaggy knits and faux shearling, lattice overlays for evening, perforated vegan leather (yes, it’s PVC-free), demonstrative lumberjack plaids and prints done in collaboration with the Erté archive. McCartney’s show notes state that she met the famed fashion-loving artist as a child. The prints she used had a characteristically Deco feeling, and one could see a touch of the Twenties in a range of lovely dresses, some with unfussy vertical ruffles. Or maybe it was the power of suggestion, because McCartney beautifully adapted the patterns to her aesthetic.
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That aesthetic typically manifests in a dialogue between feminine and masculine, the latter expressed here via strong tailoring. A terrific gray pantsuit with one-button jacket had slouchy appeal, while coats with deep funnel collars projected a non-specific military vibe. This look crossed over to the men’s wear, as did the bold plaids. Also for women and men: big, flat animal broaches in gold and silver, a delightful, witty expression of McCartney’s animal-loving ethos.
Launch Gallery: Stella McCartney RTW Fall 2020
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