I Stayed at the World's Best Hotel—Here's What It Was Like
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Where you stay on Lake Como heavily influences how your trip to the Italian paradise plays out. Choose well from the area's abundance of high-end accommodations, and you’ll likely never want to leave. On a recent visit to the destination, arranged by Imago Artis Travel, I had the pleasure of staying at Passalacqua. The longtime private villa turned five-star hotel welcomes guests as if they’re old friends, making it the ideal choice for travelers who want to immerse themselves in the region's everlasting grandeur.
Given the chance, I'd move right into the hotel and never look back. After all, the retreat was awarded the titles of World’s Best Hotel and the Best Hotel in Europe in 2023, and it’s easy to see why. From the mesmerizing interiors to the lavish amenities, the property has it all—meaning spending every minute on it would surely be a satisfactory way to vacation in Lago di Como. If you’re planning to visit the popular locale and are looking for a top-tier option, I’ve assembled everything you should know about Passalacqua to fuel your decision below.
The Historic Location
Situated in the town of Moltrasio, Passalacqua maintains a rich history. The land was originally owned by Pope Innocent XI, and the villa was built by Count Andrea Lucini-Passalacqua during the 18th century. But the notable ties don’t end there. The composer Vincenzo Bellini made the villa his home in 1829, composing two of his most famous works there (the operas “Norma” and “Sonnambula”). The location also acted as a gathering place for other prominent figures from Napoleon Bonaparte to Winston Churchill.
The villa has always remained a privately owned monument, cementing it as one of Lake Como’s best-kept secrets. When the De Santis family, who own the Grand Hotel Tremezzo, purchased the villa, they wanted to honor its soul as a private residence while opening it up to travelers. “We wanted to create a hotel that doesn’t feel like a hotel,” owner Valentina De Santis says, noting the aim is to make you feel like you’re “being hosted by fantastic friends who live on Lake Como in their beautiful mansion” and “you as a guest become part of the history of the place.”
During a three-year restoration, Valentina and her fellow hotelier parents transformed the grounds into the epitome of opulent living on Lake Como. Overwhelmed by the property’s generosity—in terms of nature, space, history, and beauty—when they first laid eyes on it, the family set out to preserve and create marvel. From the interiors imbued with Italian craftsmanship to the seven acres of terraced gardens, they revived the property inside and out. The result, as Valentina puts it, is a story of love and family.
The Italian Design
Passalacqua’s 24 rooms and suites are spread across three buildings: the 12-suite main villa, the eight-suite Palazz (formerly the estate’s stables), and the four-suite Casa al Lago. The villa is home to common areas including the open kitchen, library, dining room, bar, and sitting areas. The owners had no plans or renderings when they embarked on furnishing the interiors. “Our way of working was just a layering of choices from the heart,” Valentina says.
Her parents became antique hunters throughout the project as they scoured auctions, exhibitions, and fairs across Italy—and returned home with truckloads of treasures. They also worked with local artisans and generations-old Italian companies to infuse the property with high-quality materials. Like “a sort of magical recipe, all of the pieces [fit] in every corner we needed,” she adds.
Each lodging possesses a distinct style informed by original elements, like the frescos, stucco, and flooring. In the villa, you’ll find grand Italian baroque style throughout the common areas and guest suites. The building is also home to Suite Bellini, the hotel’s crown jewel. Spanning 2,700 square feet, it boasts a double-height balustraded music room (where Bellini played the piano) and a more than 16-foot-tall Murano glass chandelier.
The Palazz takes on a slightly rustic feel thanks to the former stable’s exposed wood beams paired with glossy damask walls in warm burgundy and mossy green. Casa al Lago’s garden-inspired suites and common areas present a delicate, intimate atmosphere through floral prints and soft fabrics.
The Idyllic Rooms and Suites
I stayed in a Casa al Lago suite and enjoyed every minute of it. Upon entering the room, I was greeted by the sound of ethereal piano music playing from hidden built-in speakers. (The system plays other tunes, like Italian classics, and connects to Bluetooth in case you’re after a different musical energy.) That literally set the tone for the rest of the space, which features elegant, ornate decor—striking an even balance between intricate detail and blank space for an overall charming yet calming atmosphere.
The bed proved to be the standout luxury in the room as it was dressed in the softest bedding I’ve ever felt. It’s by Italian textile manufacturer Beltrami and made of fibra di legno, a natural fiber that comes from birch trees and is softer than silk. You can rest assured that I’ll be dreaming about those sheets for eternity.
Apart from the sleeping arrangement, I was delighted by the in-room coffee and tea station stocked with Smeg and Illy appliances. Another nice touch: a hidden TV at the foot of the bed that rises out of a chest. The room also had built-in USB and USB-C outlets near the bed for easily charging personal devices sans a converter for international folks.
Naturally, French doors open into the en suite. While I was especially taken with the heated flooring and colored-glass accents (a mirror, chandelier, and pair of sconces), the bathroom also had a freestanding tub, walk-in shower, and towel-warming rack. What shocked me the most came in the form of hair tools. There were three Dyson products (the airwrap, supersonic dryer, and straightener) in custom Passalaqua-branded leather boxes—a far cry from typical hotel hair dryers that are infamous for barely getting the job done.
My room also had private access to a massive outdoor lawn overlooking the lake. It came equipped with a dining table for al fresco meals via room service and lounge chairs for soaking in the sun while reading a good book.
If you’re considering booking a stay in Casa al Lago, my only note is to consider the journey it takes to get there. Since it’s located at the end of a hill, you’ll either need to be driven down the winding path by staff to get there (the view is unbelievable) or walk it yourself.
The Lavish Amenities
The vast amenities ensure staying on the property is time well spent. Outside, a 65-foot-long swimming pool is surrounded by vibrant parasols and loungers covered in a lively fabric custom-made by fashion designer JJ Martin of La DoubleJ. The terraces, rose garden, magnolia garden, and ancient olive grove work together to create a tranquil landscape. Guests can even wander into the chicken shed to collect eggs and forage for seasonal food in the fruit garden. There’s also a fitness area, subterranean spa, bocce ball court, and clay tennis court.
Boat tours, movie screenings, and flower arranging are only a few of the daily activities visitors can indulge in. I took a boat tour along the shore, which is a must-do when visiting Lake Como. Notable sights included the town of Como, Versace’s former villa, and the home of the area’s honorary mayor George Clooney.
The Unique Dining
The dining experience at Passalacqua amplifies the feeling that you’re being welcomed into an affluent friend’s private home. Breakfast, lunch, an aperitivo, and dinner can be enjoyed anywhere on the property—poolside, on one of the many terraces, in the dining room, at the bar, you name it. The open kitchen means guests can interact with the chef and even take an impromptu pasta-making session or partake in a wine tasting.
If there’s something you really want to eat that’s not on any of the menus or breakfast buffet spread, the friendly staff will make your request a reality even if they need to run out to get the ingredients. On the menu, you can expect fresh, seasonal, classic Italian cuisine— the spaghetti pomodoro now reigns as the best I’ve ever had—and everything is served on tableware featuring vivid colors and exquisite patterns.
Speaking of incredible cuisine, check out our itinerary below for more recommendations to elevate your trip to Lake Como.
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