I Stayed at This 5-Star, Ferragamo-Owned Hotel in Milan—Here's What It Was Like

entrance of portrait milano hotel
Inside Milan's Chicest, Historic HotelCourtesy of Portrait Milano


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On a recent trip to Milan, I embraced the city’s status as a major design hub. A significant part of doing so involved deciding which of the many dreamy hotels to make my home base. Thanks to Imago Artis Travel, I had the opportunity to stay at Portrait Milano: a former seminary turned five-star, luxury hotel. It perfectly blends a contemporary atmosphere with its storied past, making it an exquisite destination for anyone who appreciates a quiet, vast oasis in a prime location.

To say I would return to Portrait Milano in an instant is an understatement. So if you’re planning a trip and considering going all out on your accommodations, I’ve laid out everything you should know about the hotel—from the history tied to the building to all of the little details that make the design and hospitality worth it. (And, FYI, the hotel's piazza and dining options are open to the public. So you don't have to book a stay to get a small taste of all that Portrait Milano has to offer. But warning: Once you learn more about it, there's a high chance you'll want to experience it all!)


The Historic Location

a building with pillars and a courtyard
Courtesy of Portrait Milano

Situated in the heart of the city, Portrait Milano is less than a 15-minute walk from the Duomo di Milano and the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II. Since its inception in 1565, the massive structure has had many lives. While it most notably became one of the first seminaries in the world, it also once functioned as a library, printing shop, boarding school, military hospital, an architect’s atelier, and even a prison. In 2019, it was transformed into a hotel—as part of the Ferragamo family’s Lungarno Collection—with the restoration led by architect Michele De Lucchi and interiors designed by architect Michele Bönan.

The property is marked by an unexpected ornate Baroque gateway, which leads visitors to a more than 30,000-square-foot area called Piazza del Quadrilatero. It’s so spacious that it feels like you’ve completely left the city when you step into it. Once closed off but now open to the public, the calm courtyard is lined with clothing boutiques and the hotel’s gourmet dining options. Bursts of greenery liven up the space.

Not only is the piazza a pleasant passthrough for leisurely walks, but the area also features temporary art installations. While there, I was able to catch an exhibition by Jimmy Nelson. Fittingly, it showcased 18 portraits by the famed British photographer projected between the building’s distinct columns. Along with it, a ground-level screen played videos discussing the meaning of a portrait. It truly felt like walking into an open-air museum hall.


The New-Old Design

a loggia with chairs and plants
Kelly Allen

Portrait Milano captures Milan’s renowned reputation as a fashion and design capital while honoring the historic structure’s past. The building maintains vaulted ceilings along with original staircases. There are four levels with 73 rooms and suites—27 of which are off of the second-floor loggia. Encased in glass during cooler months, the loggia boasts comfortable seating with greenery and mood lighting for relaxing to tranquil music after a shopping spree.

In the garden, some of the building's fallen columns, old baths, and sacred statuary are on display. The area also features fruit trees, including pomegranate trees, and outdoor seating for taking in the scenery.

All of the common spaces are outfitted with contemporary furnishings made of rich materials and textures. A color palette commanded by red and green further drives the classic Italian design as the colors are often found in Milanese houses and stately mansions of the past. Dark woods, dramatic stones, charcoal paint, and metallics work together to elevate the look. As for the hotel's art, it comes in many forms—ranging from framed photography to sculptural displays.


The Glamorous Rooms and Suites

The hotel’s sumptuous color palette flourishes in the rooms and suites, which take on either a red or green theme. Inspired by 1950s parlors in Milan, the lavish interiors are brought to life through chrome, Italian walnut wood, leather, and rattan accents. Thoughtful wall art showcases framed patent prints of Salvatore Ferregamo’s iconic shoe designs, often paired with complementary prints of furniture pieces.

With a walk-in closet, guests can really make themselves at home. The mini room provides ample space for suitcase storage along with racks, shelving, and drawers for organizing all belongings. Plus, there are large mirrors, good lighting, and outlets (should you need an extra spot to charge an electronic or even blow dry your hair).

Most of the bathrooms were done in bright, white Carrara marble, while others present a combination of red porphyry and Breccia Medicea marble. Beyond opulent stone, the bathrooms boast impressive lighting, a freestanding tub, a walk-in shower, a heated towel drying rack, and massive mirrors all over. Salvatore Ferragamo-labeled toiletries ensure guests are equipped with everything they may need. In short, the bathrooms are dripping in luxury and all of your worries will seemingly wash away when you’re inside one.

Each room also comes with a little dessert plate, so you can enjoy a sweet treat (or four!) upon arrival. When you’re done with that, you can head to the fully equipped personal bar to make yourself a cocktail and indulge in snacks.


The Dining Options

dining room of 10 11 dehors restaurant
Courtesy of Portrait Milano

When it comes to dining, Portrait Milano has three options: 10_11 Restaurant, Beefbar Milano, and Rumore. At 10_11, visitors can enjoy all-day casual dining. It encompasses a bar and restaurant with tons of seating options including in the garden. You can tailor your experience to the time of day and your mood. I went there twice for breakfast to enjoy the abundant buffet (there were endless croissants!) and other decadent menu items. In the morning, each table is set with a newspaper-style list of weekly happenings by Portrait Milano. Made of recycled paper, each edition provides readers with fun, current happenings in Milan.

Beefbar is renowned for its mix of street food classics and haute cuisine, and Rumore is a cocktail bar where patrons can also enjoy food from Beefbar along with live music and performances. While I didn’t visit either, they're worth considering if you're looking to further build out your itinerary. If I spent more than two days in Milan, I would've penciled them in.


The Fine Details

It’s the little details at Portrait Milano, design and otherwise, that elevate the experience. Here’s a snapshot:

  • Upon entering the lobby, guests are greeted and offered a complimentary coffee as they sit in comfy seating to check in rather than stand at the front desk. Enjoying a cappuccino makes filling out paperwork a much more pleasant ordeal.

  • The lobby is outfitted with seemingly endless coffee table books, which guests can browse at their leisure.

  • In the elevators—which are surrounded by a floor-to-ceiling gallery wall featuring photos of the Ferragamo family and iconic celebrities, like Audrey Hepburn—guests can literally take their own portraits on a built-in screen as they move from one destination to the next.

a person taking a picture of herself in a mirror
Kelly Allen
  • Clever design features hide unsightly necessities in the rooms including mini chrome cabinets for the rose-stamped toilet paper roll and plunger; stone shower drain covers for a seamless look and feel when stepping on it; and slatted wood AC unit covers.

  • Pine cones symbolize health and prosperity in some Italian regions, and they do so in relation to the environment at Portrait Milano. Near each bed, a pine cone sits atop the nightstand. If guests want to save energy by only having their sheets, bathrobes, and towels refreshed every three days, they can keep the pine cone displayed there. If they want everything changed, they can place the pine cone on the bed.


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