Spinnova to Show New Denim Prototypes at Kingpins

Spinnova will be heading to Kingpins Amsterdam with new denim fabric prototypes and the first samples of jeans produced the Finnish innovator’s sustainable cellulosic fiber.

In the first major change in the fabrication of what has mostly been cotton-only denim fabric, Spinnova’s version maintains a durable hand feel similar to cotton in a denim weave made from responsible wood pulp or waste, unlike those woven from such manmade fibers as viscose and lyocell.

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“We see a huge opportunity in changing the way that raw materials are sourced and treated for a product as iconic and timeless as denim,” said Shahriare Mahmood, Spinnova’s chief sustainability officer. “It’s exciting to see that we can already address many of the existing sustainability challenges with Spinnova’s technology, while upholding the quality associated with a good pair of jeans. Spinnova works together with partners in the denim segment to optimize the share of Spinnova in the fabric for the best use of the qualities of the fibre.”

Based in Finland, Spinnova production consumes 99.5 percent less water than conventional cotton production, and produces 74 percent less CO2 emissions, making it a much less resource-intense manufacturing process when certified eucalyptus pulp is the source. There are no harmful chemicals involved as a result and there is also no dying involved because the fiber is woven into the inner side of the fabric.

First reviews of the new denim say it more than passes muster, even among the most demanding brands, according to the Renewcell partner. It scores high on traceability, with the origins of all materials known from the source. The fiber is fully recyclable, losing no quality or needing to add new, virgin fibers to the blend.

This is a departure from how the 3.1 billion pairs of jeans produced globally last year were made. These were produced from water and resource-intense cotton, often blended with polyester and elastane for comfort and stretch. That addition however makes it extremely difficult to recycle and the chemicals commonly used in the dying pose enormous risks to the environment and the health of the people doing the work.

Showcasing denim fabrics produced with Spinnova’s fiber marks a key step forward for a company that’s been publicly traded for just two years. The Adidas-backed firm announced plans earlier this year to build a factory in partnership with Ecco, the Danish shoe brand. The Marimekko collaborator has also lined up production partners across Europe as it ramps up post-IPO commercialization.

And just recently, Spinnova was profiled in Global Fashion Agenda‘s 11-film series called Fashion Redressed, which shines a spotlight on apparel industry change-makers such as Lenzing, Vestiaire Collective,The Ellen MacArthur Foundation, and FarFetch fighting for a healthier planet.

“It’s been a rewarding experience to bring this documentary to life – the unique Spinnova technology joining forces with the modular innovation of its design collaborator Sofia Ilmonen, through the lens of BBC StoryWorks Commercial Productions,” said Diana Balanescu, Spinnova’s global brand director. “All solutions highlighted in the series are crucial to shaping a better future for the fashion industry. It’s an honor for Spinnova technology to be featured in such great company.”

According to Spinnova, jeanswear sellers seem keen to pursue its eco-friendlier offering. “We’ve had considerable interest from brands and look forward to expanding cooperation with denim mills and brand partners to launch our first commercial denim products together,” said Allan Andersen, chief sales officer at Spinnova.

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