I Spent the Night in a Loire Valley Castle and I’ll Never Be the Same

loire valley
One Night in a Castle Will *Change* You, PplGeoffrey Weill Associates


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Paris is cool and all, but wanna know the real tea? The Loire Valley, aka "The Garden of France," is where it's actually at. Picture this: You're surrounded by hundreds (yes, hundreds) of châteaux (castles), 175 miles of a picturesque river and meadows, and a sh*t ton of wine, cheese, and eats. Intrigued? Thought so. IMHO: The Loire Valley is the hottest destination in France right now—and it's even more romantic than Paris.

Whether it was when I rode an (er, electric) bike along the rolling vineyards and scenic meadows, overindulged in brie and sauvignon blanc during a wine tasting inside a 15th-century cave, or spent the night in the most surreal family-owned château (that I'm convinced will be my future wedding venue), there was no shortage of fairy tale moments. Let's just say I was dragged out of the region, and I'm already filling up my piggy bank to fund my next trip back.

Since I waxed poetic (and waxed some more) about my epic experiences, let's get to the point of this story: Here's how you too, can have the most idyllic trip to the Loire Valley with your friend(s), your boo, or all by yourself. Let's get at it.


P.S. The writer received comped transportation, accommodations, meals, and activities in order to write this story.


Travel

  • French Bee: Let's be real—a flight to Europe ain't cheap. But that doesn't mean we want to go any less. However, if you live in New York/New Jersey (EWR airport), Los Angeles (LAX airport), or San Francisco (SFO airport), the relatively new airline, French Bee offers the *most* affordable nonstop flights to Paris (ORY airport). YUP, this is not a joke. Plus, the airline even offers air+train packages to destinations beyond Paris, which means you can save hella $$$ by combining both into a single booking. (More money = more wine and croissants, duh.) Choose between economy class or premium class, which is French Bee's version of first. On the way there, I rode premium (luxe, good food, and super comfy), and on the way back I was economy (decent food, short on leg space, but surprisingly comfy, would 100 percent do it again—especially for the ticket price!). Basically, if you're looking to save money, French Bee is hands down the airline to go with.

  • Val de Loire Travel: Because the châteaux and other excursions are located in the countryside, you either need to rent a car or schedule transportation. Mario Tirelli, of Val de Loire Travel, can hook you and your group up with transportation as well as tours. Tirelli was our guide throughout our stay and he truly made the experience incredible. The best part? You can choose a curated tour package, or create your own, unique experience with the company.

Stay

  • Domaine de la Tortinière: Let me start by saying that this place left me *speechless*, and if you think the pictures are gorgeous, it's a million times prettier in person. Owned by Anne Olivereau and her husband, the Château Hôtel of Domaine de la Torinière will provide you with the most authentic and charming stay. Olivereau truly makes it an incredible experience for her guests—you'll feel like you're at a home away from home (yet, you're in a literal castle). It's kid-friendly, there's a pool, a fabulous restaurant with outdoor and indoor dining spaces, and so much more. You can either stay in the actual château, or in one of the guest houses on the property—both experiences are equally as fabulous. P.S. I am completely convinced that my future wedding will take place here, I'm that obsessed.

  • Empreinte Hotel: If you're looking to stay in Orléans, the capital of the Centre-Val de Loire region, the Empreinte Hotel is an excellent choice. The hotel is situated right beside the Loire River and features an incredible view of the water. Relax in the hotel spa or lounge, or walk the gorgeous trail along the river during your free time. There are endless things to do in Orléans, and this hotel offers you a place to sleep and relax right in the middle of it all. That, and they offer a 10/10 breakfast assortment (think: pastries and jams galore).


  • Fleur de Loire: This brand new hotel and dining experience, owned by chef Christophe Hay, is located in a former hospice rife on the banks of the Loire in Blois. It features its signature restaurant Christophe Hay, second restaurant, Amour Blanc, a pastry kiosk, a delicatessen, a bar, and (drumroll pls), a Sisley spa (!!) And, yes, I absolutely stuffed all the toiletries in my bag (I mean it's freaking Sisley, do you blame me??)

  • Le Bois des Chambres: If you're looking for more of a modern hotel and experience (which can be a fresh welcome in between touring all of the 10th-century castles), the Le Bois des Chambres offers a wonderful and unique stay. The whole concept is centered around where "art meets nature," and it is incorporated into every aspect of the property. Whether you're enjoying the hotel room, restaurant, or outdoor spaces, you'll truly have a unique experience. (If possible, snag a room with a view of the lot next door, you'll wake up to a beautiful view of horses.)

Play

  • Take a bike ride: Out of all my experiences and activities in the Loire Valley, this was one of my absolute favorites. My group and I picked up the bikes (electric, to be specific) in Amboise from a company called Roulib (reserve them in advance!), and enjoyed about an hour bike ride along the most beautiful path which led us along the Loire River, through the French suburbs, countryside, and vineyards. It was truly an incredible experience, and I absolutely did not want it to end. Also, I had my electric bike at the highest power setting the whole ride. Sorry not sorry.

  • Drink a little a lot of wine: You're in France, so it's basically a *requirement* that you enjoy one (or two, or three) wine tastings. My favorite? The Caves du Domaine Bourillon Dorléans. Frédéric Bourillon is a third-generation winemaker, and owner of the estate, which includes a troglodyte cellar that dates back to the 15th century. My group and I got to attend a wine tasting with Bourillon himself, and the experience was incredible—especially due to the fact that he offered us a taste of a 1947 vintage.

  • Embark on a boat ride: The Loire River is gorgeous to look at, but it's even more gorgeous to boat on. Take a ride on a traditional toue—a flat-bottom boat—with Moments de Loire with guide and owner, Aurélien, who grew up fishing on the banks of the Loire. The company offers several packages, and they can work with you to personalize a custom experience.

  • Taste some vinegar: Soooo, fun fact, Orléans is actually quite well known for its vinegar. Since Orléans is the northernmost point of the Loire River—making it the closest port to Paris—it became a major spot for transporting goods back in the day. Martin Pouret—a cute little vinegar shop we tasted (and bought!) vinegar from—is the last and oldest (est. 1797 to be exact!) vinegar producer still around. If you have time, def make a stop and purchase a bottle. My favorite? The five-year-aged vinegar.

  • Tour the castles: If you go to the Loire Valley, you have to hit up a few castles. Remember, there are hundreds! And because I know you can't possibly see 'em all—too many tours can be quiiiite overwhelming, ppl—I'm gonna suggest a few of my favorites: Château de Chambord (giant!), Château de Chenonceau (Chanel fashion show!), Domaine de Chaumont-sur-Loire (art and nature exhibits!), Château du Clos Lucé (Leonardo da Vinci!), and Château Villandry (gardens!). Each château has its own special story and unique element, so read up on them and choose which is best for your days abroad.

Eat

  • Christophe Hay: If you're in Blois and want some good, ~fancy~ eats, you're going to want to hit up Chef Christophe Hay's signature two-star Michelin restaurant at Fleur de Loire. The restaurant is open to all and offers a multicourse-tasting menu that was *chef's kiss*. The meal takes around three hours and is a wonderful fine dining experience if you want to spend a little extra on a special night.

  • Le Grand Chaume: The food is great, but you know what's even better about the Domaine de la Tortinière Restaurant? The experience. Located at the Le Bois des Chambres hotel, the Le Grand Chaume's atmosphere features an atypical architectural design in a fine dining setting. The food and ambiance go hand in hand—look up to the ceiling and you'll notice the roof is designed to emulate the night sky with arrows that represent comets.

Your packing list

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