How To Spend A Winter Weekend In Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains

Virginia native Chef Travis Milton of Nicewonder Farm & Vineyards walks us through the ultimate winter itinerary.

<p>Cavan Images/Getty Images</p>

Cavan Images/Getty Images

If you ask a Southerner about visiting the Blue Ridge Mountains in the wintertime, you’ll likely receive a variety of responses based on their familiarity and understanding of the region. Part of the Appalachian Mountain Range, the Blue Ridge extends from Pennsylvania to North Georgia, encompassing over 600 miles of small towns, scenic overlooks, and one of the prettiest drives in the South. If you talk to someone who frequents Western North Carolina, they might bring up Asheville, Blowing Rock, or the ski slopes in Boone. Those in Georgia will probably recommend day trips to Blue Ridge or Dahlonega. South Carolinians can share their favorite cold-weather activities in Greenville, and Virginians will typically point you in the direction of the Blue Ridge Parkway or the hiking trails around the Peaks of Otter.

While there are many ways, routes, and itineraries for spending time in the Blue Ridge, we tapped Travis Milton, the culinary director and executive chef at Nicewonder Farm & Vineyards in Bristol, for his thoughts on traveling to the Southwestern Virginia portion of the mountain range in the winter. For Milton, who hails from Castlewood, there are two things visitors should try to experience this time of year: the food, of course, and the communities. “I adore the community aspect of what wintertime in Appalachia is and how it factors into the food,” he says, recounting memories of crisp, cold days in his hometown when the dense winter air smelled like “charred cinnamon and roasted apples,” courtesy of seasonal events like apple butter cook-offs and canning swaps.

To discover this specific brand of nostalgia and appreciation of the area’s culture for yourself, he suggests taking the scenic route—avoiding the highways and stopping when something catches your eye—through the region, specifically heading South from Roanoke down to Abingdon and Bristol. This way, he says, “you get much more of a feel and vision of how beautiful it is in Appalachia,” and you’ll encounter a range of places, people, and flavorful meals that bring a certain level of coziness and charm to the season.

Ready to plan your next mountain getaway? Learn some of the best things to do, eat, and see over a winter weekend in Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains, according to a local chef.

Friday: Roanoke, Virginia

Where to Stay

Those traveling to the Blue Ridge Mountains from out of state—or from a significant distance away–should start their trip in Roanoke, where Roanoke-Blacksburg Regional Airport serves major cities like Atlanta, Charlotte, and Washington, D.C. As far as accommodations, Chef Milton says Hotel Roanoke & Conference Center, which underwent renovations in 2020, is one of his “favorite spots to stay” as it’s “close to everything.” Another option for travelers is a newcomer to the scene: Fire Station One. The boutique hotel is housed in the city’s former firefighting headquarters and has preserved many of the building’s historical features, including its spiral staircases, 19th-century wood flooring, and brass fire poles.

What to Do

Depending on your arrival time (and the weather), you might be able to squeeze in a hike along the Star Trail or the Roanoke River Blueway. This time of year, says Chef Milton, “the hikes are a little more doable without a lot of brush and shrubbery and stuff popping up everywhere.” If your travel schedule is wide open, start your morning at the year-round Historic Roanoke City Market, also known simply as the Farmer's Market, and browse the in-season vegetables, handcrafted gifts, and mouthwatering baked goods. Other Roanoke spots to consider in the winter months include the Harrison Museum of African American Culture and Explore Park’s Artisan Christmas Market and Winter Walk of Lights.

<p>Virginia Tourism Corporation</p>

Virginia Tourism Corporation

Where to Eat and Drink

Chef Milton nods to Roanoke for its rosters of dynamic, fun restaurants, but shares that one of his favorites is The River and Rail. “The cocktail program there is phenomenal,” he says. “The bar manager, Jackie Gentry, really embraces all of the cool things that she can do in the wintertime. Most bars that you go to, on a cursory level, don't really like to lean into like the mulled things, the hot toddy things… she fully embraces it. She's just a great mixology mind.” Plus, the food is chef-approved, too. “The menu there is typically very regional-based, so you’ll get a lot of nice hearty, braised things. Just beautiful, warm-your-heart-and-fill-your-gut kind of food, but on an elevated level,” he says.

Saturday: Abingdon, Virginia

Where to Stay

It’s about a 2-hour drive from Roanoke to Chef Milton’s next spot, Abingdon, which he says is “most picturesque little towns [he’s] ever seen” and great for those “looking to experience the mountains and the land… a wonderful restaurant community, and great history.” Part of that history can be found at his hotel recommendation, The Martha Washington Inn & Spa, a 63-room-and-suite property with daily complimentary breakfast. For something a bit more casual, he says, travelers should also consider short-term rentals: “Abingon is the perfect place to Airbnb because it's filled with all of these beautiful, old late 1700s to mid-1800s Victorian houses that are [rented] often.” Choose from homes like this 19th-century carriage house, a two-bedroom centrally located brick structure, or this spacious abode in Abingdon's Historic District.

What to Do

For a small town, Abingdon has an impressive number of things to occupy your time, even in the winter. “There are some great trails near the Holston River and the South Holston Lake. Holston River is a little chilly for fishing, but you can definitely get some great rainbow trout around this time of year,” says Chef Milton. The 34-mile Virginia Creeper Trail also begins in Abingdon, providing access to both hikers and bikers who want to explore the area.

<p>Virginia Tourism Corporation</p>

Virginia Tourism Corporation

Less physically demanding activities in Abingdon include spending your afternoon going into the shops on Historic Main Street and seeing the local cemetery, which is particularly alluring just after a snowfall. “The cemetery in Abingdon is breathtakingly beautiful. It dates back to the 1770s; it's perfect for anyone who likes to do photography.”

To get a deeper understanding of the food in Abingdon and its surrounding counties, Chef Milton suggests the Abingdon Farmers Market, which hosts its holiday and winter markets on Saturdays — but be sure to check the exact schedule here.

Where to Eat and Drink

“A lot of people don't realize that one of the heaviest immigrant cultures in Central Appalachia and Southwest Virginia was Eastern European. So there's a lot of German, Polish, and Slavic culture in the area,” he says. To get a taste of what he calls “nuanced German food,” grab a table at The Tavern in Abingdon. Not only is the food substantial—think steaks, trout, and Wienerschnitzel—but the setting also adds to the restaurant’s appeal, especially when snow is in the forecast. “It's got these old roofing tiles that are covered in lichen, and when the snow’s on it, it's like it's something out of Norman Rockwell kind of kind of painting. It's beautiful,” he says.

When colder weather encourages travelers inside, consider imbibing at either Summers Roof and Cellar or Tumbling Creek Cider Company, both recommended by Chef Milton. “Tumbling Creek Cider Company’s tasting room is in Abingdon, though the actual cidery is in nearby Meadowview. They do amazing old-world style ciders featuring the heirloom apples—that I hold very dear to my heart—of the region. The tasting room also features coffees and pastries, so it's a perfect stop on a chilly winter day,” he says.

Sunday: Bristol, Virginia

Where to Stay

You can have a more relaxed morning, with far less driving, as you make your way from Abingdon to the next, and final, leg of the journey. In about 20 minutes, barring any unplanned roadside stops, you’ll reach Bristol, Virginia. As far as lodging options here, it should come as no surprise that Chef Milton is partial to the Inn at Nicewonder Farm & Vineyards, which was also voted the South’s Best Hotel 2023. Billed as a “mountain oasis,” the resort is particularly notable for its luxury yurts, all of which have everything you need to keep you warm on a winter night—including access to the outdoor fire pit, where you can roast s’mores if you’re feeling peckish.

PHOTO: COURTESY OF NICEWONDER FARM AND VINEYARD
PHOTO: COURTESY OF NICEWONDER FARM AND VINEYARD

What to Do

Similarly to Abingdon, Bristol, Virginia packs a large cultural punch for a city of less than 20,000 people. “There's an amazing record shop in downtown Bristol on the Virginia side, Cheap Thrills Records. Being that close to the Birthplace of Country Music Museum, you're going to get some really cool stuff there that you probably wouldn't find in a lot of places,” says Chef Milton.

“Right beside, there is my favorite art store in the world, a place called HollerHouse. They really focus on young artists in Appalachia and have some of the coolest stuff in the world," he says. "I just bought this amazing tarot card-based Dolly Parton painting that says, ‘Queen of Appalachia,’ and she's sitting there feeding strawberries to two baby bears.” He also recommends Benjamin Walls Fine Art Gallery for those interested in nature photography, and any of the local antique shops—like Willow Creek Antiques or Boxwood—if furniture shopping strikes your fancy.

Where to Eat and Drink

To start your morning in the footsteps of Chef Milton, try one of the buttermilk biscuits topped with fried bologna at Hickory, the Inn at Nicewonder’s signature restaurant. “We are hyper-seasonally focused… and we've got a lot of activities on the farm, whether it be doing some canning, [making] apple butter, or going to the winery and seeing the wine in its early stages of becoming wine,” he explains of his Hickory food program.

If you’re looking for a caffeine fix, he offers two options: Bloom and The Girl and The Raven. “Bloom is a hip, inviting place where everyone feels comfortable. I'm typically a black coffee drinker, but every winter, they do the most phenomenal eggnog latte I've ever had in my life,” he says, also praising the “amazing” food offerings led by Chef Josh Fehr. Not to mention, the location is extremely convenient for further exploration of Bristol. “It's right in the middle of State Street—literally three steps away from the Tennessee line—and right where everything's happening down there. “

And finally, to celebrate the perfect weekend in the Blue Ridge Mountains, cheers over a microbrew—either one of the signature recipes or something seasonal—at State Street Brewing Company, where you can “enjoy all the greatness of State Street” and Bristol in its entirety.

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