How to Spend a Perfect Weekend in New Orleans
Contributing Travel Editor Tracey Minkin shares an itinerary for three days of leisure in our favorite destinations around the world. Find more travel inspiration in Weekend Hop.
There is never a wrong time for New Orleans (even Mardi Gras is an outsize delight if you seize it with both hands). America’s most singular, timeless city holds so many treasures from its many chapters of history and among its many neighborhoods that I return again and again, discovering new delights every single time. If we spoke of FOMO (which we don’t), it may have been minted here. Never enough hours, never enough hunting and gathering, never too many Sazeracs. Here’s a collector’s weekend in one of my favorite cities in the world.
Where to Stay in New Orleans
It’s never been harder to choose one of the city’s design hotels, so consider this quartet of splendidly luxurious stays with rich, photogenic interiors (and terrific restaurants and bars to boot).
In the gallery-dotted Warehouse District, Maison de la Luz will have you at the grand entry to its circa-1908 building. But it will capture you with seductive high-ceiling suites, vast and impeccably tiled baths, a sumptuous speakeasy lounge, and its scarlet, boîte-perfect Bar Marilou.
In the Lower Garden District on shop-and-lunch-always Magazine Street, Austin-based hotelier Liz Lambert has conjured bold-hued, mod-maximalist magic at Hotel Saint Vincent (see if you won’t ponder redoing a room in the custom, abstract wallpapers, and nabbing a takeaway from in-house shop By George).
Nearby, the circa-1883 Columns Hotel, where every meaningful conversation may have occurred on its porch overlooking the broad oaks and rumbling streetcars of St. Charles Avenue, has just emerged from a head-to-toe renovation and redesign. The grande dame is now The Garden District's beguiling ingenue.
On the other side of town in the Marigny neighborhood, the stunning Hotel Peter & Paul has tapped a rich palette inspired by religious paintings and tapestries from 14th through 18th century Europe and Africa to inform this spectacular new vision for a 19th-century church, rectory, schoolhouse, and convent. Its Elysian Bar, a golden-hued jewel box, is a destination unto itself.
Where to Shop in New Orleans
Sidestep the abundance of traditional European antique galleries on Royal Street in the French Quarter (just for now) and fall into the arms of Magazine Street in the ever-hotter Lower Garden District.
Begin at SUD, the bright boutique where architect/owners William Brockschmidt and Richard Dragisic leverage their 20+ years spent in Sicily into a collection of antiques, art, and contemporary crafts.
Don’t miss the fresh furniture, tableware, and especially the pillows at Sunday Shop; ask about the new Sunday (Work)shop line of custom casegoods. Browse the regularly updated vintage and antique finds at Merchant House (check ahead to see if they’re back in their Magazine Street warehouse—under renovation this spring—or in their lovely temporary digs on Camp Street). And secure a properly expressive dress, hat, or handbag at the beautifully woman-centered Saint Claude Social Club for cocktails later.
Attention, culinary collectors: Navigate to Lucullus Antiques in the Bywater neighborhood for culinary antiques, and dip into the Quarter for the ultimate New Orleans tabletop find: one of Mark McBride’s exquisite antique oyster plates at Moss Antiques.
Where to Eat in New Orleans
If staying at any of the hotels mentioned here, you're halfway to at least one fabulous cocktail, one sunny round of breakfast, and possibly a fine coffee right at home. When out and about, consider boosting the day with coffee at Backatown Coffee Parlour, a Black-owned coffeehouse in the Storyville District, the historic red-light area of the city that gave birth to America's greatest art form— jazz.
In the Warehouse District, pop in to Drip Affogato Bar for just that—small-batch gelato surrounded by espresso. In the Marigny, a glass (or two) of wine in the backyard party that is Bacchanal Wine remains essential (note that Bacchanal helms The Elysian bar at Hotel Peter & Paul).
Dinner? If you’re truly spending a weekend in New Orleans, you’ve likely discussed where you’re eating or where you should eat with everyone you’ve met.
If you’ve got time to plan, Melissa Martin’s gorgeous Mosquito Supper Club is one of town’s hottest reservations for her thoughtful, creative Cajun plates. Stay in the seafood lane, whether with just fresh oysters or whole fish, at bistro-fabulous Pêche Seafood Grill. Discover newcomer Le Chat Noir before the rest of the world does.
For incredible live jazz and a killer cocktail, head to the Pontchartrain Hotel's Bayou Bar. This cozy watering hole was once a drinking nook for Sinatra and Capote, and it features an extensive beer and whiskey list. Pop upstairs for a nightcap at Hot Tin, the hotel's chic rooftop bar. You'll enjoy 270-degree panoramic views of the city, a curated wine list, and delicious craft cocktails.
Finally, save some time and appetite for a deep local pleasure: the fried oyster po’boys at the venerable Domilise’s Po-boys and Bar. Just remember: they don’t work on Sundays (nor should you).
Before You Leave
Book a session listening to the greats at Preservation Hall (currently you have to book tickets in advance). Whether for the first or fiftieth time is of no consequence. This is the ultimate collector's triumph: New Orleans' purest musical joy.
You Might Also Like
