Spaghetti All'Assassina Is Not As Daunting As You Think

spaghetti all'assassina
Spaghetti All'AssassinaPHOTO: RACHEL VANNI; FOOD STYLING BARRETT WASHBURNE

Spaghetti all’assassina is like the OG one-pot pasta. The spaghetti is cooked in a spicy tomato broth in a style similar to risotto and charred in the pan as the broth gets absorbed. I used tomato paste, passata (puree), and chicken broth in my version because I wanted to lean into the “brothiness” notes of the recipe. But you can use tomato paste, tomato puree, and water too. And believe it or not, I ask you to burn the spaghetti in the initial stages and then again toward the end as the final liquid evaporates. It’s a key part to the dish! As long as you have a rich and saucy burned spaghetti situation, you’ve done it right.

So what’s the "assassina" all about? It’s a tomato-rich, umami-soaked one-pot spaghetti that’s been around for quite awhile—even before one-pot pasta started trending. This recipe has roots in Bari, Puglia, and somehow I missed experiencing it when studying abroad in the region. I’ve channeled those roots to re-create a unique pasta that even the most inquisitive cooks might question. Why does it insinuate a bloody massacre? It’s the rich tomato, burned starch, and spicy mess of it all. And it’s absolutely delicious.

Yields: 4 servings

Prep Time: 10 mins

Total Time: 45 mins

Ingredients

  • 5 tbsp.

    extra-virgin olive oil

  • 4

    cloves garlic, finely chopped

  • 1 tsp.

    crushed red pepper flakes

  • 1 tbsp.

    tomato paste

  • 3 c.

    tomato passata or puree

  • 2 c.

    (or more) low-sodium chicken broth

  • 8 oz.

    spaghetti

  • 1 tsp.

    kosher salt

Directions

  1. In a large 10" to 11" skillet over medium-low heat, heat oil. Add garlic and red pepper flakes and cook, stirring, until garlic begins to soften and oil turns a little golden from the flakes, 2 to 3 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook, stirring, until garlic is lightly golden and tomato paste breaks up into tiny clusters, about 1 minute.

  2. In a medium bowl, combine tomato passata and broth. Increase heat to medium-high. Lay spaghetti flat in skillet. Add 1 cup tomato broth and cook, undisturbed, until liquid evaporates, leaving a thickened paste on bottom and around spaghetti, 4 to 5 minutes.

  3. Using a metal spatula, unstick spaghetti from skillet as it begins to burn or char on one side. Add salt and 1 cup tomato broth and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until liquid is nearly evaporated and turns into a thickened sauce, 4 to 5 minutes. Gradually continue to add tomato broth and cook, stirring occasionally, until spaghetti is al dente, charred, and sauce adheres to the pasta, 25 to 30 minutes.

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