Smyth takes No. 90 spot on extended version of World’s 50 Best Restaurants list
Smyth was announced as No. 90 of 100 in the extended list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants on Wednesday morning. The restaurant is only the third from Chicago to make the list, according to a representative for World’s 50 Best Restaurants.
“This one is something that we’ve always had our eye on,” executive chef John B. Shields told the Tribune the morning of the announcement. “It’s a pretty special feeling.”
Smyth opened in 2016 as Shields and executive pastry chef Karen Urie Shields’ grand return to Chicago after leaving in 2008. Following a successful run in rural Chilhowie, Virginia, with Town House and Riverstead Inn, the couple began a dual concept in West Loop: Smyth and the Loyalist.
In 2019, the Tribune’s Phil Vittel called Smyth “endlessly experimental, but homey.”
While the Loyalist downstairs offers an a la carte menu, the second-floor Smyth offers prix fixe only. There are two options: $325 for the Smyth menu or $425 for just one table nightly, where the chefs serve and explain each dish. Named for the Virginia county where the chefs spread their wings, Smyth features creative, modern plates, an open kitchen and high-quality produce. Dishes from the past year include a caviar parfait, smoked quail egg croustade, and a dish of crab and wax, served with four sauces. Beverage pairings are available for an additional charge.
Smyth has been known for its focus on local produce, but John said they have increasingly worked with products from other U.S. regions. This includes some inspiration from the tropical agriculture of Florida, where he was raised. Four dishes at Smyth feature sapote, which Shields also worked with at Charlie Trotters. The fruit has various culinary applications, including an edible pit and textures ranging from firm as a potato to soft like uni or custardy.
The Shieldses met working in the kitchen at the now-closed Charlie Trotter, another Chicago restaurant previously named to the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list before it closed in 2012. John was a sous chef and Karen was head pastry chef.
“She’s the lifeblood of this whole place,” John said of his wife and partner Karen. “Without her, this place doesn’t exist.” Shields also credited the rest of the team for their success, including business partner Keith Shapiro and general manager Chris Gerber.
John also spent two years as sous chef at Alinea, which for many years was Chicago’s only representative on the World’s Best 50 list, with its highest rankings at No. 6 in 2011 and No. 7 in 2012. Alinea last appeared on the list at No. 37 in 2019.
Smyth has swiftly climbed the ranks to extremely rare and exclusive company over the last year. In November 2023, the West Loop restaurant earned its third Michelin star. There are only 13 three-star restaurants in the United States, and Alinea is Chicago’s only other three-starred restaurant.
“I hope I make him proud,” John said of Alinea chef and mentor Grant Achatz. “He inspired me to be the chef I am today.”
The World’s Best Restaurant list is produced annually by British media company William Reed. The list is decided by votes from more than 1,000 restaurant industry experts around the world, including food writers and critics, as well as chefs and restaurant owners. The first list originally appeared in 2002 in the British magazine Restaurant, making it a relatively newer accolade among others such as the Michelin Guide or the James Beard Awards. World’s 50 Best has a heavy emphasis on fine dining and pricier tasting menus.
Last year, two New York restaurants were the only U.S. representatives in the top 50: Le Bernardin and Atomix. The No. 1 spot was claimed by Central in Lima, Peru.
This year, the extended list ranking restaurants from No. 51 to No. 100 included 12 new entries. Besides Smyth, there were two other spots from the U.S.: Le Bernardin and Cosme in New York.
While half of the list has been revealed, the top 50 are yet to be named. They will be announced at an award ceremony June 5 in Las Vegas.
