Six decades of steak: The legacy of Jamil's Steakhouse on Lincoln Boulevard

A weathered, gray house off Lincoln Boulevard is filled with pieces of Oklahoma's history — buildings, moments, heroes and beyond — and just a stone's throw from where lawmakers and lobbyists go to work. For the last 60 years, it's been serving up steakhouse classics with a Lebanese twist.

With everything from doors from the state Capitol building and defunct bars, pianos, jukeboxes and cigarette machines left behind in decades past to glass from the Black Hotel and the original bar from the Whitehall Club and art ranging from Tiffany lamps to custom portraits, caricatures and more, Jamil's Steakhouse, 4910 N Lincoln Blvd., has become a time capsule as much as a beacon of Oklahoma's dining and nightlife.

How did Jamil's Steakhouse find its home on Lincoln?

Jamil's, which is the namesake of owner Greg Gawey's uncle, opened in the '60s following the building's chaotic past, including its time spent as home to private clubs.

Originally built as a residence in the early 1930s, Lincoln Boulevard's growth into a dominant entertainment hot spot led to the space's transformation. Eventually, it would become two clubs, first the Hi-Lite Club and then the Tradewinds Club — venues frequented by musical stars of the '40s and beyond. But the other activities and proclivities of those frequenting the clubs may not have always been above board.

While people could dine, dance and drink at the Hi-Lite, there was also known gambling taking place upstairs with a billiard table for high-stakes craps games, and prohibition was cast out the window. The club was raided multiple times, including incidents in the late 1940s involving the seizure of thousands of bottles of liquor, billiards tables, doors with peepholes and more.

"It was a gangster-operated facility. It was during Prohibition, and all the illegal stuff in northeast Oklahoma City happened, a lot of it happened here. Gambling upstairs, private entrance, armed guards, but it was a liquor distribution area," Gawey said. "That's kind of the history of it."

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The Hi-Lite and Tradewinds days are history now though, well in the rearview after 60 successful years of operating as Jamil's.

What is a Lebanese steakhouse?

Jamil's diners have come to expect a different experience than that of a typical steakhouse. You'll still find the traditional cuts of meat on the menu, including 100% Angus KC Strips, ribeyes and more, along with a wide variety of non-steak options.

However, it's the way the meal is served that is different.

"It's what we call a mezze in Lebanese. You get appetizers before your entrée. So when you sit down, you get tabbouleh, hummus and a relish tray, and crackers, and you eat. Then you get a cabbage roll and smoked bologna, and then you eat. And then your steak and baked potato comes, but it's all included," Gawey said.

In honor of the anniversary, Gawey is offering a special two-for-$60 dine-in dinner special, including an entrée choice of an 11-ounce sirloin, grilled salmon or jumbo fried shrimp with appetizers and baked potato included.

The tabbouleh and cabbage rolls are all standouts at Jamil's. Rumor has it that legendary University of Oklahoma football coach Barry Switzer even calls Gawey by the nickname "Cabbage Roll," because he loves the dish so much.

And while smoked bologna may not seem like traditional Lebanese fare, consider it Gawey's uncle's way of giving Jamil's an Oklahoma touch. A touch that has withstood the ages and stays on the menu because people love it.

More than just great food

It's not just the food that's withstood the test of time at Jamil's. Gawey said among his employees, even the least tenured staff member, the dishwasher, has been with him for over a decade.

"Greg. I mean, that's the true answer," said Dianne Moentnish when asked why she's stayed at Jamil's for 40 years.

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"Greg is the reason. It's a family-oriented place. He's very family-oriented. I got to take care of everything that my daughter did schoolwise. All that stuff comes first, and that's what's important. And we get to know all the customers because we get so many repeat customers. You know, it's just comfortable. It's comfortable and it works out well."

Surviving through struggles in a hard-fought industry

Gawey admitted it hasn't always been easy. Having staff that have been on board with him for decades means that, like Gawey himself, the staff are aging. While things at Jamil's move at a different pace, one Gawey is happy with, he isn't sure it always translates to younger audiences or potential staff.

"Staffing is probably our number one issue, and it's difficult," he said. "This is an old-style facility and a lot of people want the more modern feel and ambiance, but staffing is an incredibly difficult challenge right now."

Gawey says he doesn't think most "kids," or people under the age of 30 for that matter, would consider a job at Jamil's.

"This isn't their kind of place. I wish it was. But if I was going out recruiting, I'd probably be going 45-plus to find people that want a part-time job that fits their schedules and is not overbearing and not, you know, not a grind, but more of a pleasure to work and make a little money," he said.

Furthermore, the restaurant's location is removed from the downtown core and not near any of the current bustling entertainment districts, a far cry from the heyday of the '60s and '70s when Lincoln Boulevard was the "Las Vegas strip of Oklahoma City" as Gawey calls it.

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"This was where it was crazy, and Jamil's was here all during that period of time, but getting the people out of downtown is difficult. I would say 75% of our business, maybe even more, is destination. 'We're going to Jamil's,'" Gawey said.

"There's no nice hotel on this street, so we have to work to get our clients. It's hard. It's hard not being in that center of action. If I was downtown or a mile west, I'd probably be a millionaire, but anyway, we've been successful for 60 years so that says something."

Recognizing success for 60 years

Repeat customers are one of the keys to Jamil's success. Gawey himself said he recognizes at least 60% of the people who visit — a number no doubt attributed to his friendly personality. You'll find him flitting from table to table daily, greeting, checking on and shooting the breeze with guests.

"We're not a high-volume restaurant, but I would say the majority of people that walk in here, we know," he said.

Those guests include regulars from the Capitol. A number of legislators frequent the haunt for conversations over a steak lunch, Gawey said. The restaurant's proximity to the Capitol helps, but he believes the value and consistency really keep people coming back.

"I think being consistent, being kind to people, being aware of what they need and giving them good service and always giving them a quality meal for a great price over all these years has contributed to our success," Gawey said. "And the Lebanese appetizers! It's a unique footprint."

What does the future hold for Jamil's?

Gawey knows his restaurant is special, and because of that, he knows he needs someone special to carry on its legacy.

"It's in the back of my mind pretty consistently now at my age. I've just got to find someone to take it over, because not only food, but personality means a lot," he said. "I'm trying to find that perfect fit, that fit that would help them and help continue — to get that person in here to continue Jamil's tradition."

He said he admires owners like Florence Kemp of Florence's restaurant, located not too far up the road from Jamil's, who have children or family members they can pass the restaurant on to. After all, it worked for his uncle.

"I told Florence not too long ago, 'If I come back to this earth again, I want to be reincarnated, Florence, so I have someone to take over the restaurant,'" Gawey laughed. "I love Victoria and I love Florence. They're amazing. That's exactly the model I'd love to have, but I don't and I'm looking for that person to help me."

This article originally appeared on Oklahoman: Jamil's Steakhouse is marking 60 years of success near the OKC Capitol