How to Shop for Plus-Size Vintage Jeans

If you’re plus size, then you already know that shopping for denim can be a nightmare. When it comes to brick-and-mortar stores, most retailers don’t even carry size-inclusive options, even if they offer them online. Shopping for plus-size vintage jeans? That’s a whole other level of struggle.

Imagine the stress of looking at a floor-to-ceiling wall of denim in different styles, lengths, and washes...then add the understanding that there may be only one or two options in all of those that actually fit you. Everyone wants that worn-in, effortlessly cool (not to mention, sustainable) feel that vintage denim can bring. But finding the One above a size 14 can be like looking for a needle in a haystack.

The reason that plus-size vintage clothing in general is so difficult to find is twofold, Racked explained in an article last year: There’s the fact that there are more plus-size shoppers today than there were in the past, and then there’s the issue of how people with larger bodies have systematically been ignored by the fashion industry for decades (something plus-size shoppers know all too well). All this means that there are less vintage options available above a 14 than there are below. The way clothing is sized has changed too: A size 8 in 1950 is not the same thing as a size 8 today—in fact it’s more like a 00 today, as Time points out. Still, plus-size people have always been around, whether fashion made an effort to include them or not. There were at least some labels catering to fat people back then, so there are a handful that shoppers know to look out for. They can just be incredibly difficult to find.

Denim presents a unique challenge because it’s rigid and notoriously stretch-free, meaning that there’s very little flexibility when it comes to who it will fit. It can seem nearly impossible to find that sought-after, lived-in vintage feel in plus—but it can be done, with the help of some experts.

Emma Zack founded Shop Berriez in November 2018 in an effort to find cute vintage clothing that would fit her at a size 14. “I discovered vintage/secondhand clothing through my grandmother, who would have been a modern-day size 12 or 14. When my mom gave me a few of her pieces to try on, I remember loving their fit, uniqueness, and knowing I would be channeling my grandmother’s energy each time I wore any of it,” Zack says. She wanted to share that feeling with other plus-size shoppers. And thus Berriez was born.

Similarly, Sydney Grace grew her Instagram presence by posting about all things sustainable plus-size fashion. (You might know her as @ohhhhhhhhhoney.) She tells me that her experience with vintage-denim shopping as a plus-size person has been “frustrating at times,” pointing out how almost all vintage denim shops are curated toward straight-size shoppers. “For a long time, shopping online for vintage or secondhand denim was not an option for me.” Still, she has come up with a few helpful tips and tricks over the years when it comes to finding the right pair in her size.

Ahead, they share their four cardinal rules for shopping for plus-size vintage jeans.

Know where to look (and what to look for).

When it comes to her favorite place to shop for plus-size denim, Grace names Goodwill for its easy-to-shop organization and changing rooms. While a lot of vintage clothing is bought and sold online these days, being able to try on secondhand items when you’re plus-size is invaluable. “Most Goodwills have sizing sections, making it easier for me to avoid lots of sifting through sizes that are too small for me,” she says.

Once you’re there, it helps to know specific labels and styles to keep an eye out for. Zack suggests going after one specific men’s silhouette: “In my personal vintage-denim shopping experience—and fitting customers in vintage denim—Levis 550s tend to fit the curves nicely and fit various body types,” she says, noting that “size and fit may vary by color.”

Don’t be afraid of a belt.

“Oftentimes, denim is snug on my bum/hips, but is too loose in my waist, so I belt ’em,” Zack says, mentioning that she also has a tailor she trusts that can work magic on vintage denim that isn’t 100% right.

Think beyond what you see on the hanger.

“Vintage denim will need some sort of ‘flipping,’” Grace says. “The inseam may be way too long, the waist may need to be taken in, a zipper may look weird, the wash may not be your favorite...but if you can envision some sort of end product, that will help you identify potential in a good pair of jeans!” Think about the potential in the denim rather than what you have in front of you right now—what it might look like if you were to hem it, hand-dye it, or cut it up. Zack suggests getting acquainted with a good tailor for things you’re not as skilled at (taking a waistband in, for example).

Get familiar with plus-size-focused, online-only secondhand retailers.

While buying plus-size vintage denim from any old online vintage retailer might be risky, you’re way more likely to have a good experience if you find vintage shops that specialize in plus-size items. Grace names Shop Berriez as well as LuvSick Plus as two online plus-size vintage shops that she loves. She also suggests looking into secondhand sellers as opposed to vintage-only for some more options, naming @SellTradePlus on Instagram as a great resource.

Originally Appeared on Glamour