Serving looks: See inside the exclusive hair salon for tennis players at the US Open

In the Round of 16 at this year’s US Open Tennis Championships in Flushing, New York, the number 105-ranked Borna Gojo played the formidable second seed, Novak Djokovic. Against someone as decorated and famous as Djokovic, many a player finds himself overshadowed: Novak is a 23-time grand slam winner. He’s been a star for decades. He pulls a lot of eyes.

Yet, though Gojo lost, he too left a strong impression — on account of not only his bullet-fast groundstrokes but also his close-cropped, platinum blond hair. Such was the Croatian’s presence, underscored by the flaxen buzzcut, that the US Open’s own editorial team labeled his verve the “mojo of Gojo.”

Gojo’s is one example in a long line of hairstyles in complement to tennis, a sport in which style is often in the spotlight. Its players are competing individually and are not beholden to a uniform, outside of their sponsors’ demands (though at Wimbledon, they do have to wear all white). As a result, the tennis aesthetic, head to toe, is varied and dynamic.

Pop culture-emblazoned hair moments in the sport include, to name just a few: Venus Williams’ beaded braids at her 1997 US Open debut and her sister Serena’s similar style two years later; Andre Agassi’s mullet masterpiece (a wig!); Roger Federer’s one-time ponytail; and Billie Jean King’s close-kept cut.

And if there’s a science to this — a confluence of high-threshold performance and identity-carving in the arena of athlete-celebrity — a man named Julien Farel has the formula.

A renowned hairstylist, originally from France, Farel today owns namesake salons in New York City and Palm Beach, Florida, where cuts can run clients up to $1,250. At the US Open, Farel’s namesake venture has been a well-kept semi-secret among players for 15 years: Every August, and into September, Farel’s salon pops up at the tournament’s flagship Arthur Ashe Stadium, providing free cuts and services to the tournament’s competitors. The public is not allowed in — it’s strictly for athletes.

“It doesn’t matter if your hair is long or short, dyed or natural,” said Farel, speaking from his Manhattan outpost. “What is important is to be prepared. And this includes your presentation. Preparation must go into a great performance. In today’s world, in any industry, it’s the same thing.”

The salon itself is situated just outside of the players’ locker room area — an easy drop-in, by design. As this year marks Farel’s 15th installation, the slogan “15 Love,” a tennis scoring phrase, is displayed in the functional, frill-free room. Farel and his staff offer cuts, pedicures and manicures. Hair color services are not allowed, however, as the chemicals required are not permitted on the grounds.

In recent days, players including Austin Krajicek (who is seeded first in mixed doubles alongside the world number 3 women’s player, Jessica Pegula), Magdalena Fręch and more had stopped in for trims.

Farel’s salon at Arthur Ashe does not take appointments. It is walk-in only, and staffers are around when Farel himself is not on site. This set-up gives the place a sense of anticipation: You never know when someone will pop by. Nor who — and the names can be, and have been, career-boosting for Farel.

“The best moment for me was when I cut (Rafael) Nadal’s hair, in 2010, from long to short,” Farel told CNN. “That year, he won the tournament.” One of tennis’ best-ever names, Nadal has won 22 grand slams (though he’s currently recovering from surgery, and not playing at the 2023 US Open).

“When I cut his hair, the following days or weeks, people (would) ask me, ‘Can you sell me a piece?’” Farel added. “I’m telling you, it’s crazy.”

Does Farel have a preference for hairstyles when it comes to tennis?

“I like long hair for men. I like Sascha Zverev’s hair, and Stefanos Tsitsipas’. It’s the kind of haircut I will always embrace, because I like to see hair,” he said. Zverev, in particular, has earned a nickname for his mane: the “Lion.”

“For women, I always love bangs, and layers on long hair,” Farel continued. He cited Gabriela Sabatini’s long waves of the 1980s and 1990s, and mentioned Caroline Wozniacki’s braided pony at this year’s Open.

A number of young and rising stars, like Coco Gauff and Carlos Alcaraz, have recently altered their hair, too. Alcaraz was spotted after his Wimbledon win with a close shave on the side, longer on the top, which has since grown in; Gauff went from box braids to cornrows that flow into a bun earlier this year.

“I like to change up my hair,” she told reporters at August’s Mubadala City Open in Washington, D.C. “I’ve tried color in the past with the braids, but I just needed something different.”

Of this younger cohort, around which there’s much buzz in the tennis world, Farel said there’s plenty of time to establish one’s visual brand — or to keep evolving it.

“It’s OK to play and to change, especially because they’re young. I remember Jimmy Connors with his Beatles haircut and Martina Navratilova’s bowl cut. It was the same style over and over again. But nowadays, I think (players) can change up their look more freely. And you’ll see the result of this elsewhere, too… People are looking to these athletes for inspiration.”

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