September’s Milan Fashion Week Packed With Debut Shows
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MILAN — The upcoming edition of Milan Fashion Week is poised to be remembered as one of the richest in anticipated debuts.
Scheduled to run Sept. 19 to 25, the fashion showcase will feature 62 physical runway shows, including four digital ones, according to the preliminary schedule unveiled Friday by Camera della Moda.
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The first Tom Ford collection to be presented in Milan by newly minted creative director Peter Hawkings, as well as Sabato De Sarno’s debut at Gucci, Simone Bellotti’s seminal collection for Bally and The Attico’s first runway event are expected to drive buzz to the city’s fashion parade.
Following a soft start on Sept. 19 with the Milano Moda Graduate talent scouting competition and the opening of Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana’s Fashion Hub, the first full-fledged show day, Sept. 20, will feature an almost 12-hour schedule of catwalk shows.
It opens with Iceberg and Antonio Marras, and will be capped off by Diesel, which swapped its usual lunchtime slot for a 9 p.m. CET coed show at the Scalo Farini location. As reported, the brand designed by Glenn Martens will once again open the doors of its runway show to the public. Fendi, Alberta Ferretti, Etro and Roberto Cavalli will all show that day.
Prada, Max Mara, and Emporio Armani are among the brand showing on Sept. 21, which also will feature Hawkings’ coed show for Tom Ford at 9 p.m. CET at a still undisclosed location and Moschino’s 40th anniversary celebrations.
As reported, the brand will pay tribute to the legacy of founder Franco Moschino conscripting stylists Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, Katie Grand, Gabriella Karefa-Johnson and Lucia Liu to each create 10 contemporary looks inspired by the works of the late designer. The brand is without a creative director, following the exit of Jeremy Scott in March after 10 years.
Walter Chiapponi’s swansong at Tod’s after the brand revealed its departure will open the Milan schedule on Sept. 22, followed by Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini and Sportmax.
At 3 p.m. CET, De Sarno’s women’s spring 2024 collection for Gucci will be unveiled at an undisclosed location, marking a much anticipated turning point for Kering’s star brand one day before its chief executive officer Marco Bizzarri departs on Sept. 23.
MSGM, Versace and Sunnei earmarked afternoon slots that day, which is to be closed by the Boss coed fall 2023 show. Having embraced the see now, buy now format seasons ago, the latter brand has traveled to several destinations including Dubai, Milan and Miami for its spring collections, sticking to Milan’s September fashion week to unveil its fall lineups.
The Attico founders, Gilda Ambrosio and Giorgia Tordini, also typically present in-season but are making their runway debut on Sept. 23 after years of physical presentations and, most recently, look book releases, sometimes flanked by fashion week party events.
Jil Sander, Missoni, Ferrari and Ferragamo will also show Saturday which is to end with Matthieu Blazy’s coed spring 2024 collection for Bottega Veneta and the Philipp Plein show.
After years of runway shows at New York Fashion Week, Chiara Boni La Petite Robe is coming back home with a morning slot on Sept. 24 followed by up-and-coming names including Karoline Vitto, the Brazilian but London-based designer supported by Dolce & Gabbana as part of the duo’s talent endorsing program previously granted on Matty Bovan, Tomo Koizumi and Miss Sohee.
Giorgio Armani caps off the day with his usual double show at 4 and 5 p.m. CET at his storied headquarters on Via Borgonuovo, followed by the CNMI Sustainable Fashion Awards 2023, organized by the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana in collaboration with the U.N.’s Ethical Fashion Initiative, as reported.
The last day is dedicated to digital shows featuring newcomers including Guido Vera, Maison Nencioni and Phan Dang Hoang, while the traditionally packed schedule of presentations and events has yet to be unveiled.
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